Ripper teeth?

[HomeBrew2]

Here's the link. Cool idea!

 

[wushaw]

Here's another manufacture. Cammond

 

[PILOON]

The woods is closest to what I built, however I was given only 2 shanks so that is what I have.

My idea came from large dozers that generally have but one huge tooth to 'rip' the hardpan.

In real hard stuff I use only one shank.

Recalling that a dozer operator told me that ripping put lots of streatch forces on tracks as the rear tends to lift hence streatching the traction links because the dozer is now pulling from the front rather than pushing as was designed.

With that in mind our 4WD tractors would strain the front traction which is much weaker than the rear drive.

Thanks for showing the links guys as my 'ripper' is still under 4 ft of snow.

 

[3RRL]

I guess having a separate scarifier bar has it's advantages, but personally, I can't see why you'd want to spend the extra money on an implement that you basically already have. If you modify your boxblade and beef it up, it should work fine for ripping hard soil and even rocky areas. It just has to be strong enough and heavy enough to do it.

BTW...Using less teeth is a great way to get better penetration.

You guys are making me give you a sneak preview before it's complete, but this picture shows the scarifier bar idea combined with the boxblade...get the best of both worlds. Don't even think about asking to see the gear stuff or I won't have any pictures left to share when I start the thread about it! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Anyway, you get the idea about the scarifier bar and the boxblade together.

 

[Highbeam]

"Recalling that a dozer operator told me that ripping put lots of streatch forces on tracks as the rear tends to lift hence streatching the traction links because the dozer is now pulling from the front rather than pushing as was designed."

You can't push a rope, there is only one (on each side) drive sprocket on a dozer that pulls on the track from the same point regardless of whether it is pushing or pulling. The rippers are dseigned to actually pull the machine down into the dirt to give more traction and pop the dirt upwards. I think you will find that if anything your front end gets light.

 

[Ductape]

3RRL,

That is gonna be one beefcake boxblade !!!!!

 

[dfkrug]

Wow, that's going to be a helluva box blade, Rob! Is that solid
1.5" barstock I see? With milled slots? Nice to have a Bridgport in the garage, no?

I agree that the BB does what a single-ripper attachment can do, but the BB does it better because it is heavier. I used my BB with only one shank in it to rip very hard "soil".

 

[3RRL]

Thanks guys, it will be HD for sure!
Yes Dave, that is solid bar stock. I've got a little time invested making these babies. Still got a ways to go before it's finished though.

Suess, do you know anyone having any experience with the ripper bar alone? I would imagine it needs to be very very heavy to get and maintain penetration? Unlike the dozers, my tractor has no downward pressure on the 3pt so it's all up to the weight to keep it down. For real HD ripping I thought about a subsoiler type implement. But using 1, 2 or 3 scarifiers in the boxblade should give me similar results, I guess?

 

[Suess]

I don't know any one having the bar alone. We don't have a box blade but I would think that would work as well. In either case I think it needs to be heavy, especially for what I want to do but along with weight I think the angle on the shanks can make a big difference. It sure does with my subsoiler. I've never tried my sub soiler on the streets. The wear points are far too expensive for that and I only want to go in a few inches. I plan to make a frame work I can either stack old manhole covers on, or mount plastic barrels on it and fill them with water or sand.

 

[Highbeam]

The dozer has down pressure on the ripper bar and that is good but the angle of the shanks also holds them down while it pops the dirt. The real big dozers, like D11s in quarrys, use a single ripper with down pressure and an adjustable ripper angle so that they can get the dang tooth in the ground before using it to pop up rock.

So for best penetration roll the box back but drop the shanks all the way. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Whoa, I just reread that and well....