Rollover Box Blades

[roysallis]

What are the advantages/disadvantges of a rollover box blade compared to a regular box blade.
I am going to buy a box blade for general use in maintaining 40 acres. I have over 1/2 mile of dirt
road on my property and I have a grader blade that I use on it but will a box blade come in useful
for road maintenance also. I am new at using a tractor and will appreciate any help that I can get.
I have a JD 5210 (53hp). What size blade should I get?
Also, since my property is somewhat hilly I would like to get an indicator to mount on my tractor to
let me know when I am on too steep of an incline. My wife and daughter-in-law use the tracator a lot and I want them (and my son and I also) to operate it as safely as possible. I have looked at the tiltmeter.com website. Do you know of other sources?
Thanks

 

[Bird]

My slope indicator just came from R&B Mfg. yesterday (4 days after I ordered it). I'm sure there must be other manufacturers, but I don't know who or where.

And yes, I'd recommend a box blade; generally much more useful than a back blade (straight blade, grader blade, or whatever they're called in your area). The box blade has scarifiers, or ripper teeth, to loosen hard surfaces when necessary, is generally heavier and "bites" in better, should be stronger, etc. As for size, just be sure it's wider than the outer tread on your rear tires, but not big enough to be too much weight for your 3-point. I've never used a roll over box blade, but have looked at them; great idea and that's what I'd have instead of my regular box blade if it weren't so expensive.

Bird

 

[_RaT_]

I don't see a huge advantage to a rollover and feel that the pivot point over time could become a source of play. As for the size, Bird is correct in stating to get one as wide or wider then the rear tire spred. If you have 4WD, and won't use rippers at all you can save a bunch and get a barnyard box scraper. I need rippers, but use manual adjust type since the hydraulic add a bunch to the cost. For that size tractor I would think bare minimum would be 72" wide. I would want the heaviest one I could afford. At 72" wide, thats going to put you in the 1000lb category for a heavy duty box. The great thing about a heavy one is that not only is it a great counter weight for a loader, but it also cuts better, resists movement up when dragging and something I like alot is it makes a great anchor when I'm on a slope sideways. I carry it low and when I start sliding downhill I can drop it fast and arrest my slip. Try ( woodsonline.com ) they manufactuer Gil and Gannon. Gannons are the heavy duty ones. Mark

 

[roysallis]

Thanks for the info. I am looking at a regular box blade by Tufline (www.monroetufline.com). They are pretty heavy and the 6 footer has 7 scarifiers.

 

[Bird]

I used to have a 4' Tufline and that is one tough box blade.

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

I haven't used one, but know several people around here who use them commercially and think they're great.

Mark

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have a 6ft Gill rollover box blade on my L4310GST. It is very handy to push or pull dirt and the scarifiers work great. Its weight works well when pushing brush etc.. It is useless though for pulling a ditch or anything that requires angle work.

 

[gerard]

re the tiltmeter I can't think of why you would want to shop around anymore than tiltmeter.com. They have a wide selection, very reasonable prices, and like Bird said I rcvd it within a few days of ordering. I got the one from 0-25 deg slope. It's large, well made and easy to read. I can't see why you would need to go over 25 deg for a compact tractor. Get up to 20 deg and you'll understand why! PS Can anyone clarify what a "rollover" box blade is vs a conventional?

 

[Bird]

gerard, I agree with you; I hope I never get my tractor onto a 20 degree side slope.

I have a conventional box blade. There are two cutting edges, one angled forward and one backwards, and the scarifier shanks can be raised or lowered (or removed) by pulling some pins and adjusting them individually. I haven't used a roll over box blade, but did look at one at the dealer's, and it has a lever on top so you can reach back and pull that lever to "roll over" to a forward angled blade, a backward angled blade, or the scarifier. It sure looked good to me, but it also cost considerably more.

Bird

 

[TomG]

I plan to use the 3ph lower link leveler to do some shallow ditch work. I'll be real disappointed if it doesn't work. I know a good back blade is better for ditching, but I can't justify having both a blade and a scraper.

I've already used the 3ph leveler to level a pad into the side of a mild slope. I actually put a 4' level on the blade and adjusted the 3ph until the scraper was level. Good idea to have as wide a blade as possible for this work, or you get a fine saw tooth across the grade.

A variation on the basic box scraper that hasn't been mentioned is fixed vs. hinged rear cutter. I think most scrapers are fixed, but hinged ones are better for smoothing. However, I seem to recall that the hinged ones aren't good for rear dozing. Dozing with the rear cutter is a main use of the blade for me, and I wouldn't give that up for better smoothing. I tend to smooth with the back of the loader blade.