rototiller vs. plow

[santacruzer]

Hey guys,

I've been looking for a way to "dig up" some ground. A rototiller as I understand it, while pulverizing the ground, will also leave a compacted layer of dirt as far down as the rototiller goes (8" to 10" or so). After several seasons of rototilling, especially when the ground is a bit damp, this compacted layer becomes a "hard pan" that roots and water have a hard time penetrating.

The thought came to me that if I ran a single (or more) blade(s) of some kind that "cut" deeper into the ground and then finished the top off with a landscape rake I could avoid creating a compacted layer while still breaking the soil up and having a good planting surface.

I only have an acre of land but the soil is good and responds well to being turned

Being new to owning a tractor I would appreciate any and all comments.

And thanks for all the past help I've received from you people on this board...you've been a great help.

Thanks, Paul

 

[MMagis]

You don't say what your goals (garden, food plot, yard) with the land are, but your going to need more than a landscape rake to break up plowed dirt.

 

[Charlesaf3]

rototiller plus subsoiler would solve your problem.

For an acre, I'd go rototiller. Strikes me as more "maneuverable" from my experience - I rototill places I could never plow.

 

[MFL]

If you have the space to maneuver, consider a single bottom plow and a disc harrow. If you're working up the whole acre, then this combo will work, not give you hard pan, and you can buy the plow and harrow for less than your typical 5 ft. 3pt. tiller.

Course if you're working a small garden plot on that acre, tiller is the way to go. More effective and way more maneuverable.

 

[Soundguy]

Good advice so far... plows and disc's make good friends.. rototillers are better for smaller areas.. especially where you can't maneuver. Plows are nice on older tractors with high gears.. For instance.. an old ford 9n with not much more than 23hp is NOT a good rototiller machine... 1st gear is too much ground speed compaired to pto hp .. however.. it's a 2-bottom plow fool.. especially with it's draft control... On the flip side take a small scut.. maybee something with pto hp in the teens ( kubota BX series? ).. but a good creeper gear... it will rototill all day long.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

A tiller will cause somewhat LESS compaction than a moldboard plow will. Plows are just about the WORST implement there is for causing a compaction layer. In fact, many of us "old timers" refer to a compaction layer as a "plow pan".

You're not going to find too many tillers that will work ground to 8" to 10". 8" is just about the drop dead limit for MOST tillers. Not uncommon for them to max out at 6" or 7".

Plows don't work well at extreme depths. A general rule of thumb is 1/2 of the width of each bottom. (ie, a 12" plow=6", 14" plow=7", 16" plow=8") Those numbers can be "fudged" a bit but not a lot. Plow much deeper and the furrow slice doesn't want to roll over "green side down".

Best way to break plow pan? In mOST cases, a subsoiler. If you have enough tractor, a chisel plow can work to depths beyond that of a moldboard plow. Most smaller tractors will struggle with a multi-shank chisel at depths of 10" or more. A subsoiler used at 12" to 20" (depending on conditions) then till or disc is a good way to break compacted soil and end up with a good loose soil structure.

 

[Cyberroc]

In mOST cases, a subsoiler.

Yes, but how many shanks? I understand to some point it would it depend on tractor, however is it also by the size of land you are working or would you go with whatever your machine could take?

I plan to till do a 1-2 acre plot, just for family.

Most I have seen used with CUT's have one blade, however I have seen a few with three and one gynormous tractor pulling what I beleive was a subsoiler-leveler... Huge!!!
.
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[santacruzer]

Considering all the things you guys mention, a plow, discs and harrow etc, might be a problem due to having to maneuver a bit on my place. There is also a house etc. on the acre. My plan is to have a vegetable garden and be able to till under any other vegetation as a soil amendment.

The tractor is a BX 2350 but not knowing what a subsoiler really is I don't know if I can handle one and a tiller...but if it will eliminate the "pan" it sounds good.....same goes for the moldboard plow.

Also mentioned was a moldboard plow and I'm not really up on that tool either. Being new at this I need all the help I can get. I will "search" the subsoiler and the moldboard plow but I'm all ears for any other help you guys can give me.

Thanks a lot for you guys' help and time!!! Paul

 

[Charlesaf3]

bx2350 - easy, rototiller is your only choice, as soundguy said above.

My b3030 struggles under a 1 shank subsoiler. Subsoilers take a lot of horsepower and traction.

You might be worrying too much about plow pan considering what you are doing, but someone more knowledgable will have to weigh in on that.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Considering all the things you guys mention, a plow, discs and harrow etc, might be a problem due to having to maneuver a bit on my place. There is also a house etc. on the acre. My plan is to have a vegetable garden and be able to till under any other vegetation as a soil amendment.

The tractor is a BX 2350 but not knowing what a subsoiler really is I don't know if I can handle one and a tiller...but if it will eliminate the "pan" it sounds good.....same goes for the moldboard plow.

Also mentioned was a moldboard plow and I'm not really up on that tool either. Being new at this I need all the help I can get. I will "search" the subsoiler and the moldboard plow but I'm all ears for any other help you guys can give me.

Thanks a lot for you guys' help and time!!! Paul

Here's a subsoiler. Also, while you're in the search mode, take a look at "middlebuster". Several of the TBN members have 'em and use 'em with tractors in the same general hp class as yours.

Since you're obviously concerned about compaction, contact your county extention office. They should be able to give you hard numbers on the degree of compaction, the depth of the compaction layer, and make locallized recomendations on how best to deal with it.