Running a full-size stove off of a 20-lb propane tank

[joshuabardwell]

Just a small update. I did find the nuts where you adjust the air flow and mixture for the oven and the broiler. The oven one was behind the storage drawer on the bottom of the stove and the broiler one is actually inside the oven, just sitting there on the back wall going up to the broiler burner. I still haven't found the thermostat to switch it over. Also, the fitting on the stove's regulator is apparently 3/4" NPT, while the fitting on the propane line is 3/8" flare, so I need an appropriate fitting or fittings to connect those two. Still working on that--my local hardware store didn't have it, but I plan to go back and see if maybe they have two or three fittings that, together, will get me where I need to go.

Also, my local propane supply said that a standard, 10 psi BBQ grill regulator would not be recommended for the range, even though the range has its own regulator too. They recommended a twin-stage one that takes the line pressure all the way down to 11 inches of water column, which is also what the stove runs at. So I got one.

Just dumping these facts here in case someone comes along from Google years from now and is trying to do the same thing.

 

[kenmac]

I've done this conversion many many times .from nat to lp and from lp to nat.. That 3/8 line isn't large enough to supply enough gas to burn all top 4 burners at once to max BTU'S. I usually run 7/8 line to a range at min. 3/4. If this range is a standing pilot range you will have to adjust the top pilots . For the oven (IF STANDING PILOT TYPE RANGE) you'll remove the oven thermostat knob. You should see a slot for a regular screwdriver. If you look close you should see NAT / LP you want to turn the slot to LP

 

[joshuabardwell]

I've done this conversion many many times .from nat to lp and from lp to nat.. That 3/8 line isn't large enough to supply enough gas to burn all top 4 burners at once to max BTU'S. I usually run 7/8 line to a range at min. 3/4. If this range is a standing pilot range you will have to adjust the top pilots . For the oven (IF STANDING PILOT TYPE RANGE) you'll remove the oven thermostat knob. You should see a slot for a regular screwdriver. If you look close you should see NAT / LP you want to turn the slot to LP

Kenmac, if you have done this many times, I hope I can pick your brain. So far, I have: changed over the regulator, changed the orifices on the top burners, and changed the orifices on the oven. For the broiler, the nut that you turn to change the orifice already seemed to be tightened down all the way, as if it was already set for propane--which seems silly, I know, but it didn't want to turn, looked to be already tightened down, and I didn't want to force it and break something.

Now, as for the thermostat. I pulled the oven knob, and there was no screw there, but the little piece of paper that came with the stove says the thermostat needs to be changed, so I'm at a loss. Also, I can't find the pilot light. I took off the floor of the oven and I can see the oven burner. I hoped that once I did that, the location of the thermostat and pilot would be obvious, but no dice. I got the fitting I need to hook the oven up to the 20 lb cylinder and tried lighting the top burners, but nothing happened. We smelled gas, though, and I'm guess it had to do with the pilot light being out.

Regarding the 3/8" line, no worries, I don't think. For one thing, I never run all four top burners on my stove in my house! But we mostly plan to run the oven on this propane stove, and maybe one top burner at the same time. We are taking it to a music festival / camping event and are going to make a bunch of pizza for people. Because the setup has to be portable, the flexible line is really desirable compared to iron pipe.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Got another small update. The stove appears to be running fine off the 20 lb cylinder. Well, at least, the burners all light, and the oven and broiler. I haven't tested how much actual heat output I'm getting. The thermostat and pilot light thing, I think doesn't apply to this stove, because it has electric ignition. If it has electric ignition, then there is no pilot light, and if there is no pilot light, then (as I understand it) there is no need to modify the thermostat.

I'm still not sure if the air mixture is right for the oven and broiler. The flame is blue where it leaves the burners, but turns yellow/orange as it runs up across the deflectors. I think this means insufficient air, and will try an adjustment. The tip burners seem all right--blue flame, with occasional yellow flickers. I'm not really sure where I would adjust the top burner mixture anyway.

EDIT: Adjusted the air baffle for both the oven and the broiler burner and saw basically no difference at all between full open and full closed. Since too little air causes soot, I went with full open. I have no idea what too much air does.

Also, went back and re-examined the broiler orifice adjustment nut and found that, yes, it could be closed down. My adjustable wrench had been slipping off and I didn't want to force it, but when I used a box wrench, it was fine.

 

[kenmac]

Josh, I posted this while at the beach. Just got back this afternoon and looked at the post. remember. I did note in caps that what I mentioned was for a STANDING PILOT TYPE RANGE. Yours' being elect. ign. The info for the pilot adjustment doesn't apply Sorry I'm late responding back

 

[kenmac]

About adjusting the air. There is a metal on the sides of the burners. Loosen the screw. Open this air shudder until the flame starts to pull away from the burner (where the flame comes out of the burner holes) You should be able to hear the flame start to sound like it's blowing as it lifts away from the burner..Close the air shutter off just enough that the flames just settle back down to the burner. You should try to match the amount of air to the amount of gas coming out of the orifice. You can close down on the orifice or open and close the air shutter to obtain the proper gas/air ratio

 

[joshuabardwell]

Josh, I posted this while at the beach. Just got back this afternoon and looked at the post. remember. I did note in caps that what I mentioned was for a STANDING PILOT TYPE RANGE. Yours' being elect. ign. The info for the pilot adjustment doesn't apply Sorry I'm late responding back

It's no problem--please don't think I was criticizing you. I didn't know what "standing pilot type range" really meant until later. Thanks much for all the help.

 

[kenmac]

The total BTU of a typical residential gas range is about 65 K. That's with all burners burning. If you had the manual it would tell you how much each top burner burns then, the oven and boiler. On some ranges the top burners differ and on some they don't. Some times the yellow / orange flames are caused by dust coming in through the air shutter and being burned .Then again, propane does seem to have a little more yellow in the flame tips than NAT gas does


In 1 of the post you mentioned that the range had a regulator on it (I'm guessing factory installed) Did you remove this regulator ? If you didn't you probably should. It would be an inches to inches regulator and it would be reducing your supplied pressure of 11 '' wc down to 3''to 6'' etc, wc pressure to the burners

 

[joshuabardwell]

The range has a sticker on it with the BTU value of the burners and oven. I don't remember exactly what they were, though. The range does have a factory regulator on it. I've got a twin-stage regulator on the tank, putting out 11" WC. I guess I assumed that the regulator on the stove wouldn't do much, since it was also set to 11" WC, rather than reducing it by a fixed amount. I had a grill regulator that put out 10 psi, but the local propane supply store said I should get a twin stage, because that would be too much line pressure for the stove's built in regulator.

 

[kenmac]

Ok, Disregard about the regulator. I went back and re read the 1 st post..It must be the type reg.that you turn the top over 1 way for propane and the other for NG