Seat Issues (3520 but probably common to many models)

   / Seat Issues (3520 but probably common to many models) #1  
Joined
Apr 6, 2007
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If you have a 3520 (2013) with the standard seat, it probably came with springs that are painted black and if they are like mine, they are too "weak" in that they will bottom out whenever you hit a bump even if you have the tension knob cranked to the max. I know I need to loose a few pounds but at 200 pounds, I think that I am probably "average" weight for owners. I don't know if JD will replace the springs for you under warranty, but they have changed the springs they are using now but kept the same product number. The new springs are sort of gold colored (no paint) and when you replace them in the seat, you will immediately notice a much better ride. Now I have the tension knob cranked to about half way and the ride is quite impressive. If you want to replace the springs, the procedure that I followed was to remove the 4 nuts and washers that held the seat cushion and back onto the seat frame. Note which holes the bolts were in as there was two sets on mine. I just tilted the seat cushion out of the way rather than struggle with unplugging all the electrical connections. Then there are 4 bolts with large fender washers that hold the frame to the tractor. After you remove them, you can take the frame out to work on it. You should now crank the tension knob so that the tension is backed off as much as possible. The springs are held into the frame on one end by the tension knob bracket and on the other with a long bolt. On one end of that bolt is a nut that you will have to remove. (Only one end has a nut!) Then you can slide the spring off that end of the bolt. There is a plastic part that slides over that bolt with a groove in it that holds the spring. Once the spring is slid off the bolt and plastic, you can remove the plastic and shove the bolt to the other side in order to remove the opposite spring. You will have to turn the bolt a bit to get the second spring off. At this point, you should have both springs off the one end. Next step is to look at the tension knob bolt. On the end there is a roll pin that you will have to remove. You should use the appropriate size punch or you could damage the pin and won't be able to put it back together. Once the roll pin is removed, you can just continue to unscrew the knob until the bracket comes off and the springs should be free. Just reversing the process to install the new springs and you should be good to go. Total time for me was about an hour and a lot of that was trying to figure stuff out rather than doing something. It was definitely worth it for me. Part number LVA18522. I suspect that other models have the same seat and the same problem, but I don't know that for a fact.
 
   / Seat Issues (3520 but probably common to many models) #2  
I was concerned about the seat on the 3x20 series also and I went ahead and added the air ride seat. I am working on trading in a 1026R and it is one of the roughest riding tractors I've ever been on. I hope that works out well for ya.
 
   / Seat Issues (3520 but probably common to many models) #3  
Yup, my standard seat suspension was a POS as well. I added a piece of stiff compression spring in front of each bottom sliding rail. Cost only a buck or so each at the hardware store. Cut them to a length that would permit me to slip one in front of each sliding rail, fitting snugly between the rail and the end bumper. Rails now encounter additional resistance from the additional spring tension, and have never bottomed out since.

//greg//
 
   / Seat Issues (3520 but probably common to many models) #4  
My 3520 cab was ordered in the middle of July and it has silver looking springs. Works fine with my 250+ weight, so I guess I got lucky.
 
   / Seat Issues (3520 but probably common to many models) #5  
Hiya,

I found the air ride seat sat a bit higher than the stock "wind-up" seat. I have giraffe legs so it fit a little better although it's still a small cab for tall people.

Tom
 
 
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