Serial # can't be right, wrong location, & pls help me w/trans cover wire...

[bennevis]

the industrial bolster could be from late 50's thru 65.. etc..

the gm 10si is a common alt.

if it is the 3 wire.. #2 loops to charge stud.. #1 goes thru an indicator lamp like a 194 or similar and hooks to switched side of ignition. a diode could be used.. 1a 50piv minimum.. though more is better.. cathode (stripe ) toward #1

this provides ignition isolation...

I will have to digest all of that. It does have a two pronged plug on top. Someone had wired a gauge for it at one time as well.

 

[Soundguy]

3 wire are easy.. really just 2 wire as one is a 3" loop.. etc. if ya don't like diodes.. a small marker lamp can be hidden under the dash.. or put IN the dash. heck.. if real 01 metal.. it has a dash lamp anyway.. use that as the excite for #1. power from switched side of key, thru lamp to #1

 

[Varmint1]

Here's some pictures of my steering

 

[bennevis]

3 wire are easy.. really just 2 wire as one is a 3" loop.. etc. if ya don't like diodes.. a small marker lamp can be hidden under the dash.. or put IN the dash. heck.. if real 01 metal.. it has a dash lamp anyway.. use that as the excite for #1. power from switched side of key, thru lamp to #1

Ok, I think I understand now. I went to Napa & got the top connector & wire etc.. for the alt. The light is missing, but I they put an ammeter right next to the alternator, can I hook the #1 to it instead of the (missing) dash lamp? I'm going out to hook it up now, I will post pics shortly. BTW, the dash is heavier gauge than I have on my 841 & instead of just a hole for the light, it has a raised ring around it. Thanks again. BTW, there is no terminal block (if that is correct term) - the key switch goes straight to the under dash starter & to the solenoid, just clarifying that is correct.

 

[bennevis]

Here's some pictures of my steering.
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Yes! Thank you! That is EXACTLY like the set up I have! Did Ford produce this? I only ask because it is fantastic power steering - better than the factory PS on my other tractor. I would think this a great way to convert to PS (I have no idea about cost or supply), but it works great! Thanks for the pictures!! Do you have a source for parts? It couldn't be more expensive than factory PS.

 

[bennevis]

SG, okay - I meant to say #2 goes to charge stud & then to ammeter...then to battery? I think I'll take my phone out there with me....

 

[Soundguy]

#2 goes to charge stud.

#1 goes to a lamp or diode, and then to the (coil) switched side of the key switch.

charge stud goes wherever your charge line went.

just scabbing an ammeter on after the alternator tells you very little. only tells you OUTPUT of alternator. does not tell you net charge tot he battery. or discharge from the battery.

the place the ammeter needs to go is in the wire that usually runs tohe hot side of the start solenoid.. there will be a small wire usually from there to a junction block. placing the ammeter series, in that line, puts the batter on one side of the meter, and all the electrical loads like headlamps, ignition, etc plus charge device like alternator or generator, on the other side... and that's how you have to wire it for a center 0 net reading ammeter. if the ammeter reads backwards.. just swap wires on the back of it side to side..

 

[bennevis]

#2 goes to charge stud.

#1 goes to a lamp or diode, and then to the (coil) switched side of the key switch.

charge stud goes wherever your charge line went.

just scabbing an ammeter on after the alternator tells you very little. only tells you OUTPUT of alternator. does not tell you net charge tot he battery. or discharge from the battery.

the place the ammeter needs to go is in the wire that usually runs tohe hot side of the start solenoid.. there will be a small wire usually from there to a junction block. placing the ammeter series, in that line, puts the batter on one side of the meter, and all the electrical loads like headlamps, ignition, etc plus charge device like alternator or generator, on the other side... and that's how you have to wire it for a center 0 net reading ammeter. if the ammeter reads backwards.. just swap wires on the back of it side to side..

Got it - everything seems to be working right, I just skipped the ammeter altogether, maybe I can wire it in later. I took a few pics before I started working - I wonder why they put the ammeter on it at all? I would like to get a lamp for the dash soon, since the hole is there already. One last thing - the fuel sender wire is still hooked up to both the gauge and tank. The other wire from the gauge is just hanging, I'll look at the wiring diagram for the diesel & see where that wire goes. Thanks a million!

 

[Soundguy]

got a 12v sender?

as for an ammeter.. ? I like em.. some don't care and the idiot lamp is fine. your choice...