Series 3000 Command 20 Overheating

[CubUser]

The only time I had trouble with an air-cooled engine overheating it was because the timing was off - this would also affect the idle quality.

 

[turnerbend]

The only time I had trouble with an air-cooled engine overheating it was because the timing was off - this would also affect the idle quality.

That's the same thing I was thinking.

 

[GTSRider]

Ok... but in this case.. I'm not sure....
have cleaned today all fins... air intakes... **** engine is squeaky clean....
will have to try next time I have to mow this week and see what happens...
I have a big hill.. about half an acre... and about 2 acres of flat...
but the hill stress out every tractor I have ever had.... but this one is ridiculous.
Melting of plastic and no way the other day could I touch hood..it was just that hot.
I also get a lot of heat on me the operator... that can not be normal either,
so I am taking the tip from someone on here , and installing a good quality
6" fan at front base of engine just below front pully to draw engine bay heat out.
Pete

 

[CubUser]

I have a big hill.. about half an acre... and about 2 acres of flat... but the hill stress out every tractor I have ever had.

Two bits of advice... 1) mow the hill side-to-side, not up-and-down or if you can't do side-to-side safely try going at it at a diagonal angle -and- 2) over-inflate the tires by at least 5psi - this alone will do 2 things for you, a) give you better traction because you'll have more weight distributed on a smaller contact patch & b) will decrease the rolling resistance thus making it easier on the transmission and ultimately the engine to move the tractor along whether going uphill or over dead flat terrain.

 

[GTSRider]

Hmmm good point...but tonight I was thinking of running without side panels ?
What say you ?

 

[turnerbend]

Two bits of advice... 1) mow the hill side-to-side, not up-and-down or if you can't do side-to-side safely try going at it at a diagonal angle -and- 2) over-inflate the tires by at least 5psi - this alone will do 2 things for you, a) give you better traction because you'll have more weight distributed on a smaller contact patch & b) will decrease the rolling resistance thus making it easier on the transmission and ultimately the engine to move the tractor along whether going uphill or over dead flat terrain.

I disagree with over inflating tires for better traction. The more rubber on the ground the better the traction.

 

[GTSRider]

What is the concensus of running the 3000 series WITHOUT side panels ?

 

[recon701]

I wouldn't run it without the sidepanels, because it'd be a lot easier to get dirt and clippings all over inside the engine bay

 

[micman32]

I have a Command 20 in my 2518. It has close to 500 hours on it. I usually mow for 2 to 3 hours at a time. I have never had heat related issues.
I would never run her without the side panels. They keep alot of the clippings out of the engine bay. Whenever I clean the deck, I blow out the screen and the fins on the engine.

Michael

 

[flyhal]

I have a Command 20 in my 2518. It has close to 500 hours on it. I usually mow for 2 to 3 hours at a time. I have never had heat related issues.
I would never run her without the side panels. They keep alot of the clippings out of the engine bay. Whenever I clean the deck, I blow out the screen and the fins on the engine.

Michael

flyhal here- I have own Cub Cadets since 1979 in one form or the other. Other than my 2185, there was ductwork clear out to the grill to channel the hot air out from under the hood. This 2185 that I recently purchase runs very hot. When you lift the hood, there is a rush of hot air coming upwards. Reports are that the plastic light system melts and many of these later models are running without the light installed. I have had no heating problem with the 17 HP 682 model so have fashioned some tin to channel the air out to the grill. I think that this will solve the hot air problem. Also, with this Kohler Command engine, one might want to idle the engine down for a least a minute to let some of the hot air blow out from under the hood. Engines always get hotter when shutting OFF. And this is when the plastic could melt, or burn the paint off the hood. I am surprised that the air flow was not ducted OUT like the earlier models, especially when running lean like these engines are designed to perform. The only thing I don't like now is the location of the muffler versus the PTO pulley and rubber belt. Rather HOT for the belt. I put on a new belt and see rubber tracks above on the hood which indicates shedding of the new belt. The old systems had the muffler above the PTO. Design took over with the new sloped hoods which has created this whole problem of heat