Should we upgrade for 5 HP? Same model same options ... Hmmmm....

[DonaldP]

YES!!!

This is probably what I needed to hear. I need to try a couple of things while mowing.

So in fact with the Auto-Throttle on the advanced HST Grand L model, when you press the pedal, the engine RPM increases just as it does in a car... Now what's perplexing me is this.....

With the HST in the Grand L, I choose what gear I'm in. L, M, or H.

From what I feel and know of the transmission in action, that's it, period. There is nothing happening in the background that can change what gear I'm in.

It does not downshift, or upshift automatically ... It doesn't change to a different power ratio via the rear end or the transmission in any format, whether I let off the pedal or not. Which is a paradigm shift (no pun intended) for understanding how these things might operate differently than older HST types. But I'm not sure. I only have my experience here.

BUT... I do have an alternative that I can use and that's the Fast-Slow Selector that's available at the pull of a switch (located next to the steering column where the turn signal might generally be) in each of the 3 speed ranges (L,M,H).

It seems I'm always in Fast, but can shift into Slow if I need additional torque at the wheels for a moment, or longer if I need to muscle something about or I'm heading up an incline.

I don't have to stop to change from Slow to Fast or vice-versa. Its on the fly as it seems to be only hydraulically managed and not a gearing change.

Important point : *** You know, I have not tried to move into slow setting to harness additional torque while mowing... ***

But I have done this when traveling on the highway at max speed (17 mph) in High range and then heading up a hill. The engine does bog down under the load of the hill in High Speed, so when the engine/trans drops to about 8mph going up the hill (with the pedal to the floor), I shift into Slow... and when I do that the engine revs up a bit, and the transmission kicks into more power, taking me up the hill without loosing much more speed. Once I near the top, I kick it back into Fast, and the engine/Trans has the ability to gain speed as I crest the hill and I'm back to 17mph.

So that basically the description of how I feel and see that HST working in an L series using Auto-Throttle.

 

[Fallon]

There is an auto-shift function in there somewhere along with auto-throttle I'm pretty certain. I fiddled with the auto throttle stuff on my L4060hstc but went back to manual throttle & shift a few years ago. My L4060 barely has enough HP for me. I live in Colorado so have a 20% HP tax due to lack of oxygen. So basically a L3560 worth of HP. It's fine for ground engaging work. But I do s lot of mowing with a big flail & a lot of roading. Both of those tap out the machine.

I paid it off this month after 5 years. Was thinking about upgrading to a L6060 for an extra 20hp (and the bigger loader), but think I like no payments better for now. It would be months to get a machine, but it's not like I don't have a good one to get me until then if I did order one.

I've turned off most of the HST+ functions & rarely use cruise control. I'm a gadget nerd, but don't find them actually that useful. Except for the 2 speed HST. That's the main reason I'm with a Kubota instead of something else. Not needing to shift the clunky 3 speed crash box is worth it.

 

[bdhsfz6]

There is an auto-shift function in there somewhere along with auto-throttle I'm pretty certain. I fiddled with the auto throttle stuff on my L4060hstc but went back to manual throttle & shift a few years ago. My L4060 barely has enough HP for me. I live in Colorado so have a 20% HP tax due to lack of oxygen. So basically a L3560 worth of HP. It's fine for ground engaging work. But I do s lot of mowing with a big flail & a lot of roading. Both of those tap out the machine.

I paid it off this month after 5 years. Was thinking about upgrading to a L6060 for an extra 20hp (and the bigger loader), but think I like no payments better for now. It would be months to get a machine, but it's not like I don't have a good one to get me until then if I did order one.

I've turned off most of the HST+ functions & rarely use cruise control. I'm a gadget nerd, but don't find them actually that useful. Except for the 2 speed HST. That's the main reason I'm with a Kubota instead of something else. Not needing to shift the clunky 3 speed crash box is worth it.

You'll gain more than 20HP at your altitude Fallon since the L6060 is turbocharged and partially compensates for the thinner air.

I agree though, a new payment book is a big turn off.

 

[DonaldP]

1. The cab option raises the center-of-gravity.

2. If you have liquid filled tires or wheel weights discard them. The cab weight will provide ample traction without the wheel weight. There is only so much 35-horsepower can do.

3. The L3560 has adjustable rear tire spreads with both R1 and R4 tires. Increase the wheel spread of your rear wheels 4" to 6" for increased stability. Rear wheel width is more important for increasing operating stability than ballasted rear tires.

If instability is a real concern, and mowing is your key application, trade in the Kubota for a Toro Ventrac.

VENTRAC VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Ventrac

TRACTOR STABILITY: Prospective purchase for the mountains.




On the L3560 I had issues with the tire hitting the front Lower Loader Mount when turning and under load.

What tires are on the front of the L3560? Are the tires a factory option?
Are existing front tires correctly inflated?

These are R4 tires…factory options.

I think you are correct with the 35hp unit being capable of only doing so much, but across the board it has delivered on “EVERY” task I’ve tossed at it. Plus it’s weight is manageable and moving into the 4060 will add about 300#…. I’m not an aggressive farmer and use the L3560 TLB mostly for excavation, utility, and mowing.

And you make a great point with tire inflation but the tires are properly inflated.

You are right, I have extended the wheels out as far as they will go to gain a much wider stance, “footprint” if you will and that has saved me in a few tight spots while lifting full firewood totes in tight spaces requiring tight turning (with load, on a slope).

Although there has not been a true answer from Kubota as to “why” this FEL Bracket to tire contact is happening, I believe an upcoming video will lay that out.

For other owners of the L3560 open station or cab models, hopefully this video and information will prevent them from heading down into the rabbit hole of Kubota’s technical inadequacies in this arena.

I’m thinking there are many folks out there that are shocked to hear that statement, but this rests squarely on Kubota’s mismanagement of their engineering staff, and their service and dealership network that I fear is losing ground to other more competitive manufactures.

I will be uploading new video in a few weeks detailing the exact issue, followed up with the corrective actions taken by Kubota, their warranty rep, along with the help and support of Kubota’s engineering staff. All done at great cost to them and to my equipment … and ending in the same situation recurring after those repairs.

I’ll update that link as soon as it’s available. Until then this is a link to various issues found at pickup after that service, including a botched hood replacement issue where the hood was replaced with a factory fresh hood, and then repainted for some unknown reason, with the dealership stating that it wasn’t ever painted in their possession and that any overspray found inside the engine compartment (as seen in this video on this tractor) was intentionally applied by me for some unknown reason… (to a tractor with less than 250 hours).

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLt_slIUYrKqLtswxhFCeYpxAJricr-KfW

 

[3gunr]

For reference, I’m using a 72” cutter on my 60hp tractor.

I use a 72 in finish mower and brush cutter on a 38 hp tractor no problem at all and i cut tall heavy grass and brush,

 

[DonaldP]

I use a 72 in finish mower and brush cutter on a 38 hp tractor no problem at all and i cut tall heavy grass and brush,

That's great to know... I do understand that AC can detract from that HP...

 

[Fallon]

That's great to know... I do understand that AC can detract from that HP...

Definitely. Probably a couple HP tapped to run AC. 1-3 I'd guess.

 

[richriddle]

If you own a good tractor, then 5HP doesn't seem to offer an incentive to "upgrade."

I own 27HP Yanmar tractors and recently went through looking for a Kubota 37+ HP tractor and eliminated the L3560 and L4060 models because owners frequently mentioned the lack of power in both models on hills. It's up to you, but with all the stories about power issues relating to the L3560 and L4060 models, Kubota makes better options for tractor models.

The L4760 and L5060 models seem to offer more power. Good luck in your decision.

 

[3gunr]

Several of your posts seem to suggest that you run between 1500 and 1800 rpm , if that is true then you should be running at much higher rpms , especially for mowing

 

[CobyRupert]

Several of your posts seem to suggest that you run between 1500 and 1800 rpm , if that is true then you should be running at much higher rpms , especially for mowing

His post also suggests that when he needs more torque, like when going up a hill, he has the pedal mashed down.

Lifting up on the hydro pedal is the equivalent of shifting to a lower gear on a manual transmission. Both equal lower speed and increased torque.