Slip clutch

[agford4x4]

As per another thread i posted i have a question. I bought a NEW shredder and i can easily turn the blades under neath until they 'stop' then pull them by hand, which i assume is the clutch slipping. Th emanual made no mention of tightening the clutch down before use. Ive used it for 20 hours now like this with no issues.

Whats the deal, is this bad, or not?

 

[JerryG]

Check your manual. It will tell you how to set the clutch. Also see other thread.

 

[agford4x4]

I don't know, but the manufacturer said they are torqued from the factory, and ive used it 20+ hours now in grass up to 2' high and cut up several large piece of wood by accident, so the blades are turning. It doesnt slip that easy, im just saying i can pull the blades to slip, or at least i think i can, there is a noticable point where the blade will turn freely a bit, then it stops and from there you can pull it by hand and feel some resistance. Im going to check it either way, but according to the manual and having looked at the springs, they look to be about right in length.

 

[thcri]

What brand of slip clutch do you have? On my tiller I had one that I was told was all set to go. When I got the tiller home and started using it I found it was slipping some. I did not get a manual so I called my dealer and he said use it, we set it up for you. Low and behold there is 4 allen screws on it that you use to lock the clutch in place. When not in use you are to unlock so the plates don't rust together. Well them screws were not locked in place and what happened my clutch got so hot that the plates welded together. The dealer ended up replacing the plates in my clutch. So get the book out and check it.

murph

 

[JerryG]

I do believe that they set it up and they may have even tested it before it was shipped. But after they sit, they rust and stick. I have seen them stuck so bad that even after the springs and bolts were taken completely off, a hammer and chisel would have to be used to separate the discs and plates. It is recommended that the springs are backed off and the unit ran so that the clutch slips a small amount before using each season. When it slips you can usually see a wisp of smoke come from the clutch. Then the springs need to be set according to the manual. If the mower sits outside uncovered for a month or more, it is also a good idea to do the setup again before use. I had much rather have a slip clutch than I had a shear pin but there is maintenance that has to be performed on the clutch models. I am sure that is one of the reasons that some dealers sell entry level models with shear pins in addition to them being less expensive with the shear pin.
If they stick, it is just like a shear pin unit with a grade 8 or better bolt. There is no protection. Some dealers try to get customers to buy models with slip clutches and then they don't bother to tell the customer what they need to do to protect their mower and their tractor. I’m not trying to make dealers sound bad. It is just that there are some things that new customers have to be shown since they are new to equipment like this. I know that it has almost gotten to where there is too much for a dealer to go over in the time that is normally allowed. One of these days there will be some dealer that offers a training class for new owners every so often and I think that would be great.
There is at least one type of clutch that doesn't need to have maintenance such as this. I have never worked on one like that and I don't know of any common farm equipment manufactures in the U.S. that installs that type.

 

[thcri]

I have never worked on one like that and I don't know of any common farm equipment manufactures in the U.S. that installs that type.

My tiller is a Buhler/Farm King. I was the one to find out what was wrong with my clutch after I did some invertigating on the internet. Mine when not in use is suppose to be dis-engaged. And before use you are suppose to go out and make it slip some to free it up, then engage it.

murph

 

[JerryG]

That is a great deal. All of them should be designed that way.

 

[agford4x4]

my slip clutch is made by some italian name....i can't remember..bandolini, or something, i think its hyphenated.

 

[thcri]

That is a great deal. All of them should be designed that way.

But Jerry, that doesn't mean I follow the rules. I kind of forget sometimes. In fact I am sure I will have to take it apart this spring as I left in engaged all winter. But I can't blame no one but myself on this one.


murph

 

[greg_g]

i can easily turn the blades under neath until they 'stop' then pull them by hand, which i assume is the clutch slipping.

I didn't see your other thread, so maybe I'm missing something here. But given your opening description, perhaps it's the whole shaft your're turning - simply because the PTO up on the tractor is disengaged. With the PTO lever in neutral (and the tractor not running) it's quite easy to reach under the deck and rotate the blades - whether the cutter is equipped with a slip clutch or not.

When you're moving the blades by hand - and get to the point where you think you're slipping the clutch - can you observe the PTO shaft turning all the way back to the tractor? Or do the blades continue to move after the PTO shaft ceases to rotate?

//greg//