Snow blower performance

[Dave M7040]

If you look at newer blowers most have a part of the circular fan opening blocked off near where the snow enters the chute

You can experiment with your blower by adding this triangle piece. Make it from plywood to start with so you can fine tune the size.

Bolt the piece on, don't weld it on when you get to the correct size as it must be removed to remove the fan should you ever need to.
Dave M7040

 

[Dan33Klein]

If you look at newer blowers most have a part of the circular fan opening blocked off near where the snow enters the chute

You can experiment with your blower by adding this triangle piece. Make it from plywood to start with so you can fine tune the size.

Bolt the piece on, don't weld it on when you get to the correct size as it must be removed to remove the fan should you ever need to.
Dave M7040

Thanks for the suggestion, I already have it on there. I will post some pictures.

Just need to wrap a few things up and sandblast prime and paint the blower.

 

[dnw64]

If you look at newer blowers most have a part of the circular fan opening blocked off near where the snow enters the chute

I've seen this picture before, but I still can't make heads or tails out of exactly what it is. I don't get any perspective/depth perception as to the placement.

 

[Dan33Klein]

Here is a picture. All blades are clearanced to the new smooth housing to about a 1/16
Front plate is on with 4 bolts.
Just need a few more touches and it will be ready for sandblast and paint.

 

[leonz]

I've seen this picture before, but I still can't make heads or tails out of exactly what it is. I don't get any perspective/depth perception as to the placement.

The triangle wedge that is welded to the upper left portion of the impeller throat is there to keep the snow
inside the impeller housing so it can be ejected through the chute and spout.
If you look closely you will see that the base of the snow blower chute is directly above the left side of the impeller housing directly above the triangle of plate steel, and yes there is room to remove and install the impeller in the event the impeller is damaged or the snow blower drive train needs to be removed.


Toro has modified one model of its walk behind 2 stages with a spill over opening which essentially allows the
snow to be thrown out to prevent the impeller from plugging.


Single stages are so much simpler to own and operate

 

[leonz]

When BERTA was making snow blowers for 4 wheel mules they had three sizes and they were built tough as nails. they used three different chute and spout designs with hydraulic rotation of the chute and hydraulic control of the 2 chute types that used them. The third chute was a curved type that they offered had no adjustable spout making it very simple to use with no extra hydraulics.

It had two gear box drive speeds mounted on the snow caster and you could order it with adjustable skid pads or steel wheels set at one height.

The smallest unit was 4 feet wide and could be run by an 18-23 horsepower sub compact tractor.

The left and right cross augers were both solid in shape and had serrated flighting.

The serrated flights were fully welded to the steel tube with no openings creating an auger.

The center section with its worm to spur gearbox drive was protected with a wrap around steel weldment that was circular in shape and did not prevent the snow from entering the impeller housing.

 

[Dave M7040]

The gear box shaft extends a long way from the back of the fan housing to support the fan. The fan will not come off and out of the enclosure with the triangle in place

The only way to remove the fan is to pull the gear box back!!

This dimension spec from COMER shows the fan shaft of the gearbox is 6-1/4"
The fan is 10" deep x 30" diameter.

The fan has to move forward approx 6" to clear the gearbox shaft

That is why more expensive blowers have the triangle restrictor bolted instead of welded.

Dave M7040

 

[pmsmechanic]

I just want to follow this thread.....

In one of the pictures I noticed that the inside of the chute was very rough. The paint was pitted and rusty. Along with impeller clearance I'm thinking that the roughness inside of the chute is also part of the problem.

I have a JD 59 for the front of my tractor and even though the impeller clearances are on the high side I can still throw snow 30-40 feet. The inside of the chute is shinny metal as the paint is all worn off.

 

[Dan33Klein]

I just want to follow this thread.....

In one of the pictures I noticed that the inside of the chute was very rough. The paint was pitted and rusty. Along with impeller clearance I'm thinking that the roughness inside of the chute is also part of the problem.

I have a JD 59 for the front of my tractor and even though the impeller clearances are on the high side I can still throw snow 30-40 feet. The inside of the chute is shinny metal as the paint is all worn off.

Yes the chute was pretty rusty and pitted. The blower sat for awhile. It will be all sandblasted and primed. Sanded smooth then painted shiny kubota oranage. Will then wax it with snow ski wax. The blower should work good after all the fixes are done.

 

[PILOON]

Yes the chute was pretty rusty and pitted. The blower sat for awhile. It will be all sandblasted and primed. Sanded smooth then painted shiny kubota oranage. Will then wax it with snow ski wax. The blower should work good after all the fixes are done.

Going to all that work I'd suggest, if U can, to line the chute with some plastic that you could heat and mould to fit.
Even a strip lining the curved backside of the chute will help greatly.

I had some very thick 8" wide PVC tape that I lined mine with. Made a fair difference until the tape shredded from stones.
Waxes and oils just don't last.

When I store my blower for the summer I 'rattle can' spray all the bare metal parts as even the thin spray can coating is enough to prevent rusting over summer. Naturally first blowing event removes the paint but there is no pitted rusty metal to deter snow movement out of the chute.
Ice and snow will grip on the rough metal but not on a slick surface.