Snow Snow removal: bucket, blower, plow?

[irvingj]

Yes, off topic... but yep, that's a PA-22-150 (flying milk stool, pie-chaser, etc.), 1956 vintage. Wings are currently in my garage, under repair. It had been metalized in '59... makes it a bit more of a hassle to get inside the wings. Not that I have a bunch of time in it, but a sweet-flying plane.

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks! :thumbsup:

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Just a word of warning. From experience with my GC1720, the backhoe is not always the best ballast option. I used it the first few times out with my front blower, and the front tires had very little traction and would actually bounce when going over a curb. Steering became difficult. I would suspect you'd get the same with the stock front blade...If using the loader, you'll have a lot more weight further out, but with the stock front blower or plow, the backhoe is too much rear weight, and a ballast box with a little less weight works better.

 

[bartjoebob]

My new MF 1705 is being delivered tomorrow with a bucket loader. I definitely wanted the loader, but I was hoping to be able to plow the long, steep road to my camp with it. Now I'm worried that it will take forever to fill the bucket, turn to the side, dump, back up, turn, and repeat. But if it's not too bad, I might do it and save the $3500 for a blower or $2500 from a plow from the MF dealer.

So what do the experienced tractor users have to suggest? How bad is it to plow with a loader? Are there any significantly cheaper options for loaders or blowers (like after-market or other tractor brands)?

Thanks from this soon-to-be first-time tractor owner,

Don

I have a rear mounted blower, rear blade, and FEL and I'll share what I have learned since joining the 1705 snow removal club. The loader can work to plow, but it is inefficient for long pushes. The snow needs to be moved at some point and a long straight push with these buckets creates spillover with every pass. It'll take 2hrs to clear what would take 20 minutes with a plow or snowblower.

There are pros and cons to blowers and plows too don't get me wrong. Plow configurations are relatively inexpensive compared to a blower. Expect to pay about $2500+/- for a new rear blower, maybe a little less for a used one (they tend to hold their value because they are universal). Expect to pay about $3000-$3500 for front blower and keep in mind these are specific to the machine. You can get a rear blade for under $500 easily new or potentially much less used. However, you will eventually have snow banks to manage if your driveway/road begins to close in as more snow comes with plow configurations. This is precisely the problem a snowblower resolves.

If you go with a front mounted plow, you lose the loader for snowbank management. But it could work if you do not typically get a lot of snow. It will be the fastest option and cost between a rear blade and rear blower. A setup with hydraulics and remote adjust would be ideal, but now your into snowblower level pricing compared to a static blade that attaches to your bucket. You still have to get off to adjust a static bucket.

A rear blade or rear blower may involve some twisting around if you drive in reverse with the blade facing rearward. Mirrors are available that can be mounted to your loader brackets if you plan to drive in reverse. With a rear blade you can also drive forward and pull it. These things are remarkably good at what they do. I love mine... using it as a plow it lifts and slides the snow out of the way. Reversing it packs down, back fills and smooths. Downside to a rear blade is after a few passes (starting from the center and gradually out out to the edges), you may find the bank buildup from prior passes overwhelms the blade and tractor a little. Now you have loader work. You'll have to plan multiple clearings for larger storms, or you'll be toast if you wait for 18" to stop falling with a rear blade.

I have a quick hitch and use the rear blade driving forward for lighter snow and most storms under 6." I can use the FEL to then push back off the driveway if needed. For heavier snow or storms over 6" I use the rear blower. Either way the FEL is too valuable remove for the sake of a front mounted plow for my application. The cost of these options was also less than a dedicated front blower.

 

[irvingj]

That's sorta why, when I ordered my 2310, I ordered a front blower at the same time. All lumped together... after a while you forget the big initial expense. Mine's been paid for for quite a few years now, and I still love it. Not as quick as a plow, but I love the "no snowbanks" feature. It'll even chew through road snowplow leavings so I can actually see up & down the road before I pull out, a very useful feature....

Yes, it was a bit much to swallow initially, but looking back I certainly don't regret paying the additional $$ for the blower. As an aside, if I leave the blower quick-hitch assy and its driveshaft in place, I can drop the blower in a bout 4 minutes and put the FEL on in about 8 minutes, when I need that. (Really, no exaggeration!)

And yes, leaving the BH on REALLY makes the front end light. Going uphill with the blower & BH, I couldn't control it at all; the whole tractor just followed the crown slope of the driveway. After removing the BH, no problems, unless it's wicked icy.

 

[ray66v]

Of course, if you take all the weight off the front, and leave the B/H on, it's going to make the front light. :confused3:

You can't just hang all your weight on one end of the tractor.

Tractors have a CG, (center of gravity), just like aircraft. in order to function properly you need to consider that.

Yes, the blower is heavy. But, when it's in use, almost the entire weight of it is on the ground, not the tractor.

A FEL plow still has the loader frame to weight the front of the tractor, when the plow is down.

If someone is clever enough, to figure out a good way to weight the front of the tractor with the blower attached, you would see a big gain in traction, and control with the B/h on.

Loading the front tires supposedly helps, but they do not seem big enough to bother.

 

[Peter 315]

:laughing:

 

[ray66v]

View attachment 535403:laughing:

It would certainly work better than nothing!

I don't think it would be a good idea on steep terrain though!

 

[ray66v]

View attachment 535403:laughing:

It would certainly work better than nothing!

I don't think it would be a good idea on steep terrain though!

That tractor, has enough room to add a weight bar on the brush guard. But, I don't think the GC does?

 

[Peter 315]

It would certainly work better than nothing!

I don't think it would be a good idea on steep terrain though!

That tractor, has enough room to add a weight bar on the brush guard. But, I don't think the GC does?

Its just missing a MMM and snow chains