Snow Snow removal strategy

   / Snow removal strategy #11  
I used to do a lot of snow removal with the rear blade, but in the last few years I have gotten away from that approach. We have a 550' gravel driveway and I usually try to help out the neighbors who have the misfortune of either not owning a tractor or who own green ones (ha ha).

It is important to to get out after the first 6 inches or so even if it is still snowing. In this last storm (22"), I hit it at about 6-7" and again after about 7 more, and then just did clean up work with the rest. These days I use the FEL to do most of the work but it did take a lot of practice to learn how to "float" the bucket so as not to gouge the driveway. Usually I can run about 25-30 yards at a time and then push the accumulated pile off of the drive to the right or left depending on space at any particular location.

My FEL has a grapple on it and in some cases I close the grapple to create a better pushing surface but more often I open the grapple and push a pile of snow up in front of the bucket and if it is a little wet (usually the case in Virginia) I can actually grab the "snowball" and carry it to the side.

Have fun guys but be be safe. Snow hides a lot of hazards.

Regards
 
   / Snow removal strategy #12  
Hello all,

I am about to use my BX2660 with rear blade to try and plow my long narrow gravel driveway. It is pretty twisty, and is pretty hilly. I have never used a blade before, and wonder if anyone can suggest any hints such as blade angle, plowing pattern etc. The driveway is about 1 1/2 car widths wide and maybe 1/8 to 1/4 mile long.

Thanks.

Doc

Just b/c no one has mentioned it and it looks like you're new to this, be aware that a loaded up rear blade can swing the rear end of your tractor on you. If you have chains it's not usually a problem. But if you don't have chains don't be surprised if you start moving sideways. It just adds to the fun of snow removal :)
j
 
   / Snow removal strategy #13  
Others have said be careful pushing rearward with the blade; you don't want to hit anything hard and damage the arms.

I just came on here and did a search for "arms" because I broke one of mine this past weekend! Pushing 5' woods blade with my BX2350 backwards, caught the lip of a sandstone in my walkway, and crack. Snapped the 3pt hitch arm right in half, quickhitch smashed into my taillight and broke the lense, and bent the 3ph adjuster.

Don't know what I'm going to do yet. Have my brother weld it, or get a replacement.
 
   / Snow removal strategy #14  
I just came on here and did a search for "arms" because I broke one of mine this past weekend! Pushing 5' woods blade with my BX2350 backwards, caught the lip of a sandstone in my walkway, and crack. Snapped the 3pt hitch arm right in half, quickhitch smashed into my taillight and broke the lense, and bent the 3ph adjuster.

Don't know what I'm going to do yet. Have my brother weld it, or get a replacement.

I'm sorry about your accident. Things happen. You should be able to get all the replacement parts at your friendly neighborhood Kubota dealer.:D

Yet again, another example, that 3 pt isn't designed for too much pushing. It really is designed for pulling.
 
   / Snow removal strategy #15  
Yes by all means, don't let it get to deep.

This is how I did it last time and it seemed to work ok. Note that I have taken advantage of my blade's offset to set it. On my LP blade, I had to unbolt it and move the cutting edge over and then bolt it back on, but it works pretty good. :)
 

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   / Snow removal strategy #16  
Just b/c no one has mentioned it and it looks like you're new to this, be aware that a loaded up rear blade can swing the rear end of your tractor on you. If you have chains it's not usually a problem. But if you don't have chains don't be surprised if you start moving sideways. It just adds to the fun of snow removal :)
j

BTDT! That's why I try to stay on top of it. If I get too much sideways push it's either smaller bites width-wise, smaller bites depth-wise or FEL time. Those options each add seat time, which may or may not be a good thing as the snow doesn't always fall on your schedule!
 
   / Snow removal strategy #17  
I just came on here and did a search for "arms" because I broke one of mine this past weekend! Pushing 5' woods blade with my BX2350 backwards, caught the lip of a sandstone in my walkway, and crack. Snapped the 3pt hitch arm right in half, quickhitch smashed into my taillight and broke the lense, and bent the 3ph adjuster.

Don't know what I'm going to do yet. Have my brother weld it, or get a replacement.

I bent my links on my previous tractor by catching a frozen snow bank with the outer edge of my blade a few years back. 3RRL suggested a fix, which was adding a piece of flat stock to the bottom of the straightened link. I had no further bending over 4 years using it that way, but I also added skid shoes to my blade and go much more cautiously now. I purchased new links and made the modification to the new ones.... after I straightened the old link and did the modification just for the welding practice. When I got my new tractor, the first project I did was to reinforce the links as shown in the pictures. I use my blade a lot pushing it backwards like a plow, but have the shoes set for about 1/2 an inch and don't fetch up on things like I did when the blade had no shoes. Good luck.
 

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   / Snow removal strategy #18  
It is important to to get out after the first 6 inches or so even if it is still snowing. In this last storm (22"), I hit it at about 6-7" and again after about 7 more, and then just did clean up work with the rest. These days I use the FEL to do most of the work but it did take a lot of practice to learn how to "float" the bucket so as not to gouge the driveway. Usually I can run about 25-30 yards at a time and then push the accumulated pile off of the drive to the right or left depending on space at any particular location.


Similiar approch here, and I know many use the rear blade in reverse, I have always used my blade by dragging it behind me. Even though I'm driving over the snow, the blade still does a great job of clearing the snow. Aslong as there is less than 8" it works fine. allows me to run significant distance and a few passes I'm done..
 
   / Snow removal strategy #19  
When snow gets that deep only one answer works well "Blower".
 
 
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