So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW?

   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW? #21  
You need to take a small pair of pliers, reach up under the forward/reverse movement bars (between the rear tires and the black plastic), and break off the little metal tabs that make contact with the cutoff switches...


I have the same annoying problem with PTO cutoff in reverse. Will someone email me fix for this.

Thanks
 
   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW? #22  
I finally got a little over 50 hours on mine.

I cut with the deck on its highest setting. I have the striping/scalp roller on the back at its lowest setting. Mows very nice.

I disabled all the safety features except the parking brake/lap bar interlock. The rest were way too irritating.

It seems to eat deck belts.

Left wheel motor is weak and is irritating. It seems to be fine after it gets hot. I used to think it was the belt slipping but I hooked up a strobe light and it appears not to be slipping. My Dad's RZT50 has a similar issue but it doesn't go away when it's hot. I discovered it actually has the light duty ZT2800 transmissions in it, which basically means it is at its tire capacity and weight capacity. When it's out of warranty I might put 22" rubber on it.

I gave up on the original blades and switched to Oregon Gator Blades (fifth generation). Much better but extremely loud (need hearing protection).

The battery is junk. I've been trying to decide if I should try to warranty it or just pay the $30 for a new lawnmower battery.

At the 10 hour mark I put an oil cooler on it. I forget what model Kawasaki it came from, but it fits the 22hp Kawasaki on my Dad's RZT50. Required quite a bit of modification with a die grinder but it works and dropped engine oil temperature 20°.
 
   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW?
  • Thread Starter
#23  
"I purchased one of these this past weekend. They're on sale for $3299"

The 2012 and newer RZT54's do not have the zt-2800 hydro drives that the older ones did, so the price dropped.

Mine is still terrible for clogging the deck. New gator mulching blades helped but it still doesn't like ANY moisture, including wet vegetation like clover, not just rain soaked grass.
 
   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW? #24  
I'm not sure what Hydro-Gear transmissions that you got. Earlier models would get 200 hours before transmission failure, which cost $1500+ to replace.

Warranty is 1 year, so that's no help. I know this from experience. It's a disposable mower. At $3K, you are paying about $15 per hour to use it.

Search old posts here about transmission failure.

I'm not sure if Cub changed hydro suppliers or models. I hope so!
 
   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW?
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Mine are without question hydro-gear zt-2800, same as is on Cub's z-force mowers, with fluid reservoir and individual oil filters on each drive.

The darn crappy deck has me shopping again though - I'm looking at either Gravely ZT HD or maybe Big Dog R series, depending on what the dealers will do to work with me. I want a better deck, and the at-3100 drives will be a bonus.

Anyone need a nice, one-owner, 120 hour Cub RZT 54 with the Kawasaki engine and zt-2800 drives?! Mows great! Really! Ok, at least it does when it's dry (which is seldom, around here) and your yard isn't full of creeping Charlie and white clover (like mine is).
 
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   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Solved the problem - swapped it on a Ferris IS700Z. Easy! Just mo' payments . . .
 
   / So what's wrong with an RZT54 KW? #27  
So...after putting around 208 hours on my RZT54 KW, I thought that I would add a new comment...

I decided it was about time to change the fluid in my ZT2800 hydro pumps with fresh 20w50 oil and replace the filters. Removal of the filters was pretty easy...they were on there way too tight though. I had quite a bit of dirt packed around the filters (something I will clean out on a periodic basis from now on). Removal of the top hydro fill plugs was a major pain. The right one came off without issue (other than being on there way too tight). The left one did not come out. I stripped the hex head, even after drilling an access hole in the frame directly above the fill plug. I thought this would allow me to gain more leverage and prevent stripping the head of the fill plug plug.

Anyways, I was able to fill the right hydro easily from the reservoir (with the fill plug slightly loose). The left hydro required much more work and time...I kept moving the left wheel by hand and topping the reservoir. I could see bubbles coming up in the reservoir. I also purged the air my starting the motor and moving the handles (both with the hydro bypass handles engaged and disengaged).

All is well now and the RZT now has very responsive movement like it did when new.
 
 
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