I've been watching this thread, and feel I need to chime in.
I've lived off grid in a cold climate since '75 and know a bit about batteries (my homestead runs on solar).
Flooded lead acid batteries (what's being discussed here) have a pretty definite set of voltage parameters for charging. A good charge controller (or charger) will have three modes, Bulk, Absorption, and Float. Bulk charging will send as much power as the battery will take without going over approximately 14.8 V. Absorption will hold the voltage at that point by controlling current, for about an hour. At that point, Float takes over, holding the voltage at 13.2 to 13.5 V by controlling current. All these voltages are plus/minus a few tenths of a volt.
If the battery doesn't go above 14.8 volts, it's not gonna boil. By the same token, if the charge never gets to 14.8 volts, the battery never really gets fully charged. And these numbers are all based on relatively warm temps. Cold outdoor winter temps dramatically increase the voltage necessary to fully charge a battery.
And... a battery at 0ー has roughly half the capacity of one at 70ー (numbers off the top of my head, but close).
Solar battery maintainers without a controller are typically going to put out their rated wattage at about 13.2 to 13.5 V, never fully recharging a battery, but maintaining it at a full charge. If this battery is on a piece of equipment, it will get fully charged by the functioning charge system. If it is on a gate opener, or fence charger, it will never get fully charged, and it's life will be limited. Batteries like to be fully charged. In fact, large deep cycle batteries should get what is called an equalizing charge on a regular basis, which is really just a controlled over charge, causing the batteries to "boil", which tends to de-stratify the electrolyte. For instance, my house batteries get an equalizing charge about once a month, running up to 15+ volts for about an hour.
Previous comments have mentioned having a solar panel with a charge controller working well. Some have mentioned battery maintainers "fying" small batteries, such as found on small engines. The amount of current needed to "boil" a battery is directly related to it's size (measured in Amp hours.
I previously mentioned using a small solar maintainer on diesel truck batteries here, and maintainer is the key word. I don't depend on them to recharge the battery. I also use one on a battery used for electrolysis rust removal, again, for maintaining. When doing electrolysis, I hook up a charger.
Bottom line, you get what you pay for. A small panel with a three stage charger will cost about ten times as much as a maintainer, but will take care of that (expensive) battery.
As a side note: I recently put a digital voltmeter on my Mitsubishi, since I hate idiot lights, which is all it had. I'm glad I did, as the voltage regulator wasn't functioning, allowing uncontrolled voltage 15+. The alternator light only lights for non-charging. My battery would have boiled dry in relatively short order. After replacing the voltage regulator (Thanks, Valley Power), I saw the numbers mentioned above. Start, run up to 14+V for a while, drop back to 13+ for the rest of the time running.