Some implement refinishing suggestions, please.

   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #1  

jeffinsgf

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2005
Messages
1,258
Location
Springfield, MO
Tractor
JD 4410
The attached picture is of the latest addition to my implement collection. It is a Turfco MeterMatic II topdresser/spreader. It works sort of on the same priniciple as a manure spreader, except it has a gate that can be held to a very tight opening and it uses a brush to throw the material instead of a beater bar. Golf courses use it to spread sand and compost on fairways and greens. Since the plan is for my yard to look like a fairway (someday), I figure I will start doing what the courses do. My clay soil definitely needs amendment, and by topdressing a couple times a year I can work it into the soil a little at a time. You can see a few more pics of it at the completed auction: Jeff's MeterMatic

So, as you can see, what I bought is a rust bucket. I was gambling that it was mostly surface rust, and I was mostly right. Since I had to replace the feeder belt, I decided to break the whole thing down, degrime and derust, paint, and carefully reassemble, replacing any components that look like they might be on their last leg.

And so I come to the brain trust at TBN for refinishing advice. Here's my plan. I have a sand blasting attachment for my pressure washer. I am going to use that on the mainframe, the rollers, and other large components. I am going to buy a small recirculating parts washer to clean up all the sprockets, chains, gears, and clutch components. The mechanical components will get wire brushed and treated with some type of rust converter and then machine buffed if needed.

The body components will get blasted (as mentioned) then rust converted, body filler on the worst of the pitting and then painted.

In the past I have used Ospho rust converter and have found it to be satisfactory. I was planning on getting some John Deere green enamel from my JD dealer. But in doing some surfing for other ideas on this project, I found this outfit Zero-Rust If their paint is as good as their copywritng, this is some darn good paint. Anybody have any experience with them? I am tempted to use their "Prep-Step" instead Ospho, then paint with their product and top coat it with their clear coat. Their green isn't exacly JD Green, but it is close, and it isn't going in a parade, I just want it to look nice and work for the next 25 or 30 years.

Any comments on Zero-Rust or ideas on other products I might use or questions about my sanity are welcome.
 

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   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #2  
It looks like it is not in that bad of condition from the pictures. Using a pressure washer sand blaster attachment will work to help clean it up; but water and bare metal do not get along. Tough rust areas may require a air fed sandblaster. Hopefully you have an air compressor. You can pick up cheap suction sand blasters. They are slow but will work for you ( check Harbor Freight, etc.) I would not use body filler on bare metal. You should look at the product called POR 15. I have used this and it works very well. You can find the best deals on ebay. Use the kits sold ( prep, paint. Double coat it with POR-15. Then if you want to straighten out metal work with filler do it after treating the metal with POR - 15. Metal will be protected from rust. Top coat with your choice of colors. Please make sure you follow directions on POR-15 product.
One last thing; be careful using POR 15; if you get it on your hands it will have to wear off. It is tough. Many auto restorers use POR-15 on floorpans, etc. as it works good. I used it on my 18 foot flat bed trailer , FEL loader bucket and backhoe buckets as it will hold up much longer than anything else I have tried.
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #3  
I've used Zero Rust on several projects and it works as advertised. I really like it for outside stuff.
It's very thick compared to equipment enamel, you may need to thin it or use a bigger spray tip.

I've applied it to a disk and a box blade. Sprayed the disk, brushed the blade. They have set outside without topcoat for about 3yrs now with only discoloring a little. (I have too many projects)
The only rusty patches that can be found are my fault, poor prep in a couple spots. My prep was wire wheeling or sanding all the loose stuff off and going over top with Zerorust.

I've never used POR15 so I can't comment.
Mar hyde also makes a good convertor for aerosol can sized projects.
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks, Scott. I like the price compared to the one Dave pointed me to, as well. At 105 a gallon, that POR-15 stuff ought to spray itself and serve me breakfast in bed! Then you read the fine print, and it says that must be topcoated if exposed to the sun! So far, Zero Rust is in the lead.
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #5  
When sandblasting the body parts, you might want to ease into it. It doesn't take much to warp thin panels.

Good luck on the project. Post some pictures when done.

Gene
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #6  
I have had real good luck doing Sandblasting then filling with Fiberglas then sanding again and using RustOleum primer then their gloss enamel over it.
The rustOleum primer make a world of difference in the finish
And it will leave you some change for other things
Jim /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any comments on Zero-Rust or ideas on other products I might use )</font>
Attached is what I use you can get it at Lowes ... mebbe Home Depot as well.

Here's the link for the MSDS:

Behr Concrete Etcher & Rust Remover

It's basically phosphoric acid mainly .... I usually cut to 50% strength and either brush it on or immerse if what I'm trying to do is small enough to fit in a 5 gallon bucket.

IIRC, it runs around $12 per gallon.
 

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   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #8  
You may have a good rust converter. You need one that converts any rust (iron oxide) to black iron sulfide. THEN primer over that. Rustoleum makes a good rust converter. Think it's called Rust Reformer. Buy mine at Lowes' paint department.

Ralph
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #9  
I have tried POR and was disappointed; it forms a solid film with only mechanical bonding the rust and lifts if moisture gets underneath.

The best stuff I've found is the Eastwood corp Rust Encapsulator: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=374&itemType=CATEGORY

It chemically bonds to the rust, has fiberglass in it, applies like normal paint. I've been using it for 20 years (used to be called Corrolus) and it works well. it is also about $120 gallon.

I tell you though, the generic red oxide Rustoleoum heavy rust paint for $25 gallon does an awfully good job.

Mike
 
   / Some implement refinishing suggestions, please. #10  
Zerorust says it needs to be top coated as well, it's only because it discolors after awhile exposed to UV.
 
 
 
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