Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors??

   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #11  
I have been unable to find rear wheel spacers. The closest I've come has been a company called Unverfurth, Canada, who said they would machine them for about $250 each if my memory is correct.
I've had old IH tractors with rear wheel spacers 4-6 inches and the hillside and overall stability is like night and day.
The compact manufacturer that widens there frame/wheel width will get an order from me immediately. The existing lineup of compacts are too narrow.
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors??
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I was just planning on putting them on the rear.. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors??
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Rip, I have R-1 and they are filled with methanol and water from the dealer. The dealer is the one who turned the front out as well?? I may switch them back.. I did not know about power trac until after I bought this tractor . I think if I had known about Power tract I would have given it serious thought. I've even thought about selling my NH in favor of a power tract..I know the CFO would have a hissy fit if I tried to have both... Is the power trac dependable?? Seems complex and more suseptable to a lot of maint.. I do most of my own as long as it is R&R type stuff.. dut do not have much/any experience with hydralics..... Did you do any thing to your TC30 to make it more stable on hills?/ Thanks for the advice.. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #14  
<font color="blue"> The compact manufacturer that widens there frame/wheel width will get an order from me immediately. </font>
Most do, if you get R-1 tires. My last two compacts have had wheels that have about 6 different width setting.
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #15  
Regarding sources for wheel spacers, I do not know of any off-the-shelf other than Unverferth which I agree are more expensive than they should be. Most any machine shop can design and fabricate a pair for a reasonable price.

Since the tractor uses wheel bolts versus studs and lug nuts, steel would be the prefered material since it will have to be tapped for the bolts. (Use some anti-sieze on all bolt threads and recheck torque frequently until they all stabilize.)

Regarding tires and ballast: Having liquid ballast already is a step in the right direction. If you need the traction of the R-1 AG tires, then the spacers are the answer. While 4" per side is probably a good number, you could push it to 5 or 6" if you really had to.

If you could go with R-4 Industial tires, there are several potential advantages. First they give you a bit more overall width (about 2"), but more importantly they lower the tractor almost 2" and also will hold more fluid for even lower center of gravity and increased stability. You can still add wheel spacers with this combination if you still need to.

Since your tractor seems fairly new, you may be able to work a deal to swap your AG tires and wheels for Industrial. Transfer the fluid you have and add more for 75% fill and give it a try. You can also add cast wheel weights with this set-up. It should be much better, but if you still need to go more, then do spacers.

Regarding the Power Trac tractors, they do not have dealers so you have to do your own maintenance and repairs or farm it out to several shops. The diesel models use German Deutz engines which are used in a variety of agricultural and commercial equipment.

The rest is mostly "standard" hydraulic componants with some proprietary valves and cylinders. Again, most any hydraulic shop (of which there are many more than brand-specific tractor dealers) can service a PT tractor.

One of PTs mottos is "build it stout and keep it simple". They began and still are a mining equipment manufacture and I can tell you that not much else is abused more than mining machinery.

PTs customer support is both good and bad. On the one hand you can actually talk to people at the factory who really know the machines. On the other hand, they do not cover outside labor on repairs even under warranty. They take pains to hide the source of otherwise standard off-the-shelf componants just to make life harder so it seems.

I bought my 16 month old PT-1845 used in April, and have had no problems. For my extreme slope conditions, I could not modify my TC-30 to go where I needed to go, so I had to look at an entirely different type of machine. Your conditions may not be so extreme that some combination of the above suggestions may well resolve your problem.
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #16  
<font color="blue"> ...steel would be the prefered material since it will have to be tapped for the bolts. </font>

Tapped?

OkieG
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #17  
For other than fairly thin spacers in the order of 1" to 1.5", one would not normaly just use a plate with holes and longer bolts. Not only would this not be a very strong arrangement, but long tapered-head lug bolts or wheel studs are generaly not available.

Long spacers (over 6") are usually "Spool" shaped, either cast or machined, with tapped or through holes in the flanges to accomodate the original lug bolts or wheel studs and nuts.

Medium thickness spacers (and most adaptors) are generally made from either plate or round stock with one set of holes drilled to match the original bolt pattern with machined recesses for the original bolt heads (or lug nuts) on the face side.

A second set of holes in the same (or alternate pattern if serving as an adaptor also) is then drilled offset from the originals and then either tapped for lug bolts or machined from the back side recesses for new press-in wheel studs.

Since most tractors use lug bolts rather than wheel studs and lug nuts, the spacers (at least in the 3 to 5" thick range I was talking about) would be drilled and tapped for the new lug bolts. Aluminum would not be suitable for this, thus my recomendation for steel.

It is also important that the spacer be machined for the axle flange pilot bore and same for the outer wheel mounting face. This needs to be a fairly accurate and close fit in order to keep the wheel properly centered. In other words, both the spacer and wheel needs to mount and be supported like it originally was.

Spacers and adaptors are commonly used in custom and classic cars, trucks, and 4X4s to widen the track and/or to allow the use of different wheels with the original or different axle flange and bolt pattern. Automotive machine shops custom fabricate such spacers routinely.
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #18  
Guys, I have been making these spacers for quads for quit awhile now. I am in the process of building a log home and finishing my machine shop set up in my new shop so I am down for the moment. I am building these out of billet aluminum and after I get set back up I can take orders for these. The cost will average around $150.00 for 2 depending on the diameter. I know this should cover the BX and 2210 size tractors.

Also I bought a TSC quick hitch and it only came with one set of cat1 to cat2 adapters. I have 4 implements so I made my own out of billet aluminum. If anyone is interested I can make these for $30.00/ set. TSC wanted $29.00 each!
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #19  
Mine are of the "thin" version; 1.25" thick.
I'm just looking to gain a little extra room for the chains.
Yes you are correct, when machining you must account for the center raised "boss" on the hub(if that's what exists) and duplicate that feature to receive the rim on the outside for additional support.
I do agree with the tapped holes on the wide spacer but there was no way I could accomplish that with my narrow width.
GrayBeard
 
   / Spacers vs dual wheel adaptors?? #20  
My wheels are designed such that if you just swap sides it adjusts the width.

Makes overall width over 90 I believe.

I havn't actually measured as I like them close in the orchard.

Just thought maybe you had the same option...... !!!

glood luck
tom
 
 
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