Steel Building Prices

[Paul2000]

I purchased a Steelmaster 25 x 50 with a 25 ft peak building over 10 years ago and it is still on pallets. It is just the outer shell and does not have the metal for the ends as I was going to just frame those in and side it. The prices of steel have gone up over the last 10 years and I was wondering if I decide to sell it what it would be worth. I ended up building a much larger 40 x 80 building when I finally built one and am considering selling it to a friend who wants it. I don't want to overcharge him but don't want to give it away either. Anyone have any idea what a similar building is selling for today?

My other building went up well. I built an Ibeam setter for my tractor and it did most of the work. I welded two 4 in channels together and an I beam to them. I can take my forks and push them all the way in and just run them through the channels. At that point my FEL has a boom pole I can see well and control very well. I simply hoisted the 40 foot trusses up over the sidewalls of my building and drove them to the back of the building. Once secured I kept installing them all the way out. I worked great for setting the trusses. The tractor did a large portion of the work. I even picked up stacks of lumber with the forks and left them the height of my saw where I could simply drag them over onto my chop saw on it's stand and cut them to length without a lot of bending over. Doesn't sound like saving a lot of work until you bend over a few hundred times during the project. I don't know what I would do without my tractor, and don't ever want to find out.

 

[MotorSeven]

Go on ebay and punch in 30x50 steel building, quonset, arched steel ...etc. I really don't see too much price increase since I bought mine in 2006. Mine was just over $7 grand delivered, price range now from the $6's to the 9's depending on model type and height.

If it was stored for 10 years I hope it was stored inside. If water got between the panels corrosion starts since the water can get in, but not get out since they are stacked so tightly. There are warnings in my owners manual about this and mine sat outside for a few days and got rained on before we started the build....there was water between every sheet.

 

[Paul2000]

You are right, it has been sitting for a long time in a stack outside. It does have some corrosion on the pieces. I don't know if it can be cleaned and coated with something. It is the thick galvanized metal. I purchased mine years ago. I was going to ask about $4000. I figured it was about half price and even with minor corrosion it was a decent deal. Thanks for the reply. I guess now I need to see if there is any way to clean and protect it.

 

[wedge40]

My :2cents:.
What did you pay for it 10 years ago. Sell it for that? Unless you think that's to much. Usually when I want I want to get rid of something I just it gone, so I put a pretty low price tag on it.

Wedge

 

[Depmandog]

If you can convince the buyer that all of the pieces and parts are accounted for - that should go along way towards selling. We bought a 50 X 100 from General Steel in '98. It was a mess. Pieces missing, parts didn't line up. They didn't want to provide engineered drawings the city required (finally did, but it took forever). My business partner at the time bought the building while I was on vacation...one of those - "We have a building someone ordered but didn't take delivery sitting on a dock in Texas. Make you a whale of a deal...."

So if I was the buyer, I would be looking for the original shipping order and would be counting pieces.

Good Luck!

 

[MotorSeven]

Well the problem is that it's not Galvanized, it's Galvalume. Galvanizing is not very susceptible to alkaline, but Galvalume is and this is an excerpt from a pretty good article on the difference:
Differences Between Galvalume And Galvanized In Metal Roofing

Galvalume get's what is called "Storage Stain" from being stored stacked together in wet conditions. The amount of damage can vary, so you might want to unstack about half way done and take a look. I really don't think the acidic properties of rain would help the issue and my guess is that once the Galvalume layer is breached for what ever reason in the stack along with the presence of water, ...you now have a battery operating...aluminium in contact with steel bathed in fluid.

http://www.centralstatesmfg.com/media/pdf/Products/Substrates-Coatings/Storage-Stain.pdf

On a side note, it amazes me that the manufacturer's actually still recommend the "trough" method of anchoring, where the sheet ends are placed in formed up footer trough, then filled in with concrete or mortar. This is the absolute worse thing you can do to Galvalume and the alkaline in the mortar/concrete instantly begins attacking the Galvalume. Eventually it will corrode right through and fail....it's just a matter of how many years.

 

[xtn]

I build a lot of pre-engineered steel buildings and I've never heard of or seen anybody do one by embedding the bottom of sheets in concrete or mortar. That sounds retarded.

I always design so that the finished floor elevation is at least a few inches above the surrounding grade and the bottom of the sheets rest in a drip ledge formed into the outer perimeter, simply hangs down over the edge, or sits on top of the edge with an appropriate flashing underneath. I favor the formed drip ledge most of the time.

 

[slowzuki]

Very common still. Have to pay extra to get the style you can unbolt and move the building.

I build a lot of pre-engineered steel buildings and I've never heard of or seen anybody do one by embedding the bottom of sheets in concrete or mortar. That sounds retarded.

I always design so that the finished floor elevation is at least a few inches above the surrounding grade and the bottom of the sheets rest in a drip ledge formed into the outer perimeter, simply hangs down over the edge, or sits on top of the edge with an appropriate flashing underneath. I favor the formed drip ledge most of the time.

 

[slowzuki]

Very common still. Have to pay extra to get the style you can unbolt and move the building.

I build a lot of pre-engineered steel buildings and I've never heard of or seen anybody do one by embedding the bottom of sheets in concrete or mortar. That sounds retarded.

I always design so that the finished floor elevation is at least a few inches above the surrounding grade and the bottom of the sheets rest in a drip ledge formed into the outer perimeter, simply hangs down over the edge, or sits on top of the edge with an appropriate flashing underneath. I favor the formed drip ledge most of the time.

 

[MotorSeven]

Yep........Extremely common in quonset/arched steel building construction....and yes I agree it is "not the way to do it'.