Steep property--need advice.

[ctadds]

First post--I have been reading through here for a few weeks now, and have learned A LOT--also bought the book offered on this site (just so I could understand what the rest of you were talking about). Anyway, I have ruled out a lot of stuff thanks to a lot of you guys, but now it's time to get specific.

First question--I have a 2 acre lot on a mountainside with 400 feet of riverfront at the bottom--some very steep slopes--I have some areas with 15 to 20% grade to get up and down on, but some grades as high as 35%--Needless to say, biggest concerns are stability and safety--an injury could put me out of business in a heartbeat (I'm a dentist). Right now, I am down to a JD790, but am considering Kioti (thanks to info on this site) just to get more weight in. I test drove the 790 this morning, and the shift tranny doesn't bother me a bit. About the only thing I don't like about it is the shoe brakes. Attachments I am looking at are the FEL (new 300 is really nice, although the dealer didn't have the specs on it), Pallet forks, 5' rotary cutter, box blade, and wood chipper.

Am I on the right track with the weight/stability with that kind of property?? I understand about traveling up and downhill vs. across the incline, thanks to having spent a lot of time on a snowmobile as a kid, but have zero experience with a tractor. Keep in mind that I am a neophyte here so if I say anything stupid, it's because.....I'm stupid! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks, Craig

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Craig, I would not buy either of those tractors without testing them on YOUR property. (Actually I would not buy either of those tractors for any steeply sloped propery, and I would not buy either one for a 2 acre property, but those are just my opinions) Second, I would not buy any tractor that did not have an HST transmission for working on steep slopes. Third, I would suggest you take a very serious look at 3 brands of tractors that are unconventional but far better suited for slopes.

Steiner Tractors

Ventrac Tractors

http://power-trac.com/

All 3 brands are better suited to slope work. I have a Ventrac that I can take onto slopes that scare the heck out of me when I try to climb them with my New Holland or Kubota. In fact the Ventrac will mow in a "figure 8" pattern on slopes that will simply tip over a garden tractor and roll it down the hills. My only regret was not knowing about those brands 12 years ago when I bought my property.

 

[JackIL]

ctadds,

First of all we need to make sure of the numbers you cite. There is a huge distinction between % grade (or % slope) and the slope measured in degrees. The mathematical relation is:

Slope Angle = Inverse Tangent of (Vertical Rise / Horizontal Run)

and

% Slope = 100 x Tangent of Slope Angle or = 100 x Rise/Run

Some examples:
10 degree slope is a 17.6% grade
15 degree slope is a 26.8% grade
20 degree slope is a 36.4% grade
25 degree slope is a 46.6% grade
30 degree slope is a 57.7% grade

or in another form,

For a Rise to Run of 1 to 4, the angle is 14 degrees and % grade is 25.
For a Rise to Run of 1 to 3, the angle is 18.4 degrees and % grade is 33.3.
For a Rise to Run of 1 to 2, the angle is 26.6 degrees and % grade is 50.

I urge you to get a simple $5 carpenters protractor level at a home supply store, place it on a small square of wood (say a foot square), and measure the degrees of slope at several locations on your property. Then you will know for sure.

Most compact tractors can handle up and down slopes of up to 30 degrees and side slopes of between 15 and 20 degrees. However, this is based on static conditions, no bumps or dips, and no implements. Most people will say they don't trust compacts on side slopes above 15 degrees and many will back off at even lower angles. A Tiltmeter is very useful to check the angles on the tractor--it will help you gauge if you are approaching a critical condition as a slope increases.

The crutial parameters the tractor needs for best stability is a wide stance of the wheels (best both front and rear) along with the lowest center of gravity practical.

With regard to tractor weight, more is not always better. The goal is to have the Center of Gravity as Low as Possible. Adding rear wheel weights and/or liquid fill in the tires can help lower it somewhat. Keeping the loader and rear implements as low as possible is also required.

If your reported maximum % slope is truely 35%, then the angle would be 19.3 degrees. I urge you to measure the angles to be really sure.

However, if your property has 35 DEGREE slopes instead of 35% slopes, no standard compact tractor will be able to operate safely. You will need to investigate tractors that have been specifically designed for safe slope operations.

Please let us know what your slopes measure out to be.

JackIL

 

[ctadds]

Bob--wow, you are a treasure trove of info. I am also considering looking at some acreage further north, so I wanted the flexibility of a bigger unit. As far as the HST or not, I felt that I would be better off with the power for the money. Let me tell you how I got to this point. I started with Kubotas and JD's and liked the JD 2210 (liked the low center of gravity), but then looked underneath and got concerned that I would hit something--too much stuff exposed under there, then looked at a JD4115, then ran across some posts here that suggested going up to a 4210 or down to a 4110 (bang for your buck reasons), then ran across other posts that suggested Kioti for weight, made a full circle back to JD790 for clearance and bang for your buck reasons (no kioti dealer nearby-but will find one)

That being said, I haven't even built the house on the lot yet, so I have a lot of time to play, and, frankly, looking at this stuff is a lot of fun (I can appreciate why women like to shop for clothes).

Anyway, back to the issue--why the HST, why not these tractors on 2 acres (by the way, river floods, and cleanup is a pain), and why not these tractors on a slope.

I am still on a learning curve and value all of your opinions. Also looking at those 3 sites you reference.

Thanks, Craig

 

[ctadds]

Sorry--science background messed me up--lot is 15 to 20% grade, with some spots 35 or more--however, the community is "rustic" and letting things get overgrown is not a problem, so I can pick and choose where I go, and more importantly, where I don't go.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( why the HST )</font>

With the hills a HST is safer. With a manual shift, IF you miss a gear you are free wheeling pretty quick, and bad things can happen fast. With HST take your foot off and you stop. HST is more $$ but from a safety point of view maybe worth it.

 

[ctadds]

Tom--can't argue with that--thanks--HST it is.

Craig

 

[RoyJackson]

"Tom--can't argue with that--thanks--HST it is.

Craig )"

Save the money, buy the manual. Every bit as safe as HST, or safer. Any tractor requires a bit of common sense and awareness of the operations. A manual requires a bit of sense to use it, but no more then HST.

HST users who state blanket statements like this probably haven't had much, if any, experience with gear transmissions.

Going down hill with a 790 requires a lower gear and judicious use of the throttle. I go down slopes of 20 degrees frequently. I use 1st or 2nd low range. You do want to select the gear before going down slope, however. You can shift but you really need to stop to do so. I select the gear first, then head down. I rarely require use of the brakes.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Roy,

So you have NEVER missed a gear and went free wheeling and had to hit the breaks to stop?? Wow you are good. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[frank_f15]

Roy make some very valid and excellent points. But i will ad that i have owned and operated Both grear and HST. AND AT THIS POINT IN MY LIFE I FIND THE HST TO BE MY CHOICE. The best for you to do is try them out, and preferably on your land, but remember to go slow and not get overconfident. also COMMON SENSE plays a huge factor.