Stihl 026

[schoolsout]

Picked up a used one for $150 last Friday. Has a 20" bar on it and I know that's too big for my needs and possibly even the saw. I'm thinking about putting an 18" bar on it with .325 chain. Buddy says I should put a 16" as it will cut much better.

We have a Husqvarna 235 and Craftsman with 16" that do well for that size stuff for what we cut. Most everything we'll cut will be less than 16" diameter and most of it will be pine/sweet gum with occasional oak here and there.

What do y'all think? 18" OK?

 

[Furu]

I have been running an 026 with a 20 in bar for almost 20 years. It is a great saw. I like 3/8 chain over .325 but everyone has their opinion and likes. If the saw is in good shape it will run anything up to and including 20" just fine.
Is it an 026 or 026 Pro?
To your specific question yes on 18"

 

[LD1]

Going from 20 to 18 or 18 to 16 will make no noticable difference in how the saw will cut. Only thing you are gaining is a few less inches of bar-chain friction, which is negligible. Only thing it will do is help out with balance and if you are not used to a saw with a longer bar.

I'd stick with the 3/8 chain too for that size but thats just me. .325 is harder to sharpen IMO and dont cut as fast.

Nice find though.

 

[schoolsout]

It's a reg 026 (assuming if it were Pro, it would say it)

Just don't have the need for the 20", although it will remain in the garage should the need arise.

Next question...can a 3/8" chain work on a bar that comes with .325 or is the bar made a bit differently. I'd assume it doesn't matter, but I've made assumptions before and know where that gets me sometimes.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

My favorite saw combination is a 026 Pro with 18" bar. I will haul this up in the tree with me once my Top handle saw with the 16" bar is getting too light to cut bigger trunk sections.
On the ground with the 18" bar you might be less likely to stick it in the dirt cutting stuff up. Although it might have you bending more to make your cuts...
Keep the airfilter clean, the chain sharp, and good gas/oil in it that saw will be around for a long time.

 

[LD1]

It's a reg 026 (assuming if it were Pro, it would say it)

Just don't have the need for the 20", although it will remain in the garage should the need arise.

Next question...can a 3/8" chain work on a bar that comes with .325 or is the bar made a bit differently. I'd assume it doesn't matter, but I've made assumptions before and know where that gets me sometimes.

The 026 was classified as a pro saw regardless weather it says so or not. And just because a saw says "pro", dont meant it is. Poulan "pro" for example is certainly NOT pro-grade saw.

The bar, it depends. IF it is a hardnose bar, then no it dont matter as long as the guage matches the chain. (thickness of the drive links on the chain and thickness of the bar opening that said drivelinks ride in.)

If it is a sprocket nose bar, then it DOES matter. Because a .325 chain has shorter spacing between drive links than a 3/8" chain. So it would be like trying to run 40 chain on a 50 sprocket (if you are familiar with roller chain and sprockets).

I assume that 3/8 chain is on it now right??

If you do want to go to .325 (which I wouldnt reccomend), you will also need a new drive sprocket on the saw as well as the bar and chain.

 

[schoolsout]

I'll have to admit I bought an Oregon 18" bar/chain yesterday (haven't installed it and it is still in package) that said it's for a Stihl 026. It is .325

 

[LD1]

I'll have to admit I bought an Oregon 18" bar/chain yesterday (haven't installed it and it is still in package) that said it's for a Stihl 026. It is .325

Gotta look and see what you have on it now. It is usually stamped on the bar. If you have 3/8 on there now, you have two options

1. replace the sprocket......usually ~$8 if rim type
2. take it back and exchange for 3/8

 

[schoolsout]

I'll investigate this evening. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Furu]

The 026 was classified as a pro saw regardless weather it says so or not.

There are a couple of differences once Stihl started labeling one as Pro. Not a big change but somewhat subtle. Either 026 is just bulletproof in my opinion.

The bar, it depends. IF it is a hardnose bar, then no it dont matter as long as the guage matches the chain. (thickness of the drive links on the chain and thickness of the bar opening that said drivelinks ride in.)

If it is a sprocket nose bar, then it DOES matter. Because a .325 chain has shorter spacing between drive links than a 3/8" chain. So it would be like trying to run 40 chain on a 50 sprocket (if you are familiar with roller chain and sprockets).

I assume that 3/8 chain is on it now right??

If you do want to go to .325 (which I wouldnt reccomend), you will also need a new drive sprocket on the saw as well as the bar and chain.

If you throwaway the old chain and bar then all you have to worry about with your new Oregon bar/chain is the drive sprocket as stated, if your new bar and chain are matched on gauge. Oregon still uses a lot of .063 gauge as well as .050 gauge. You have to go one or the other can't mix bar and chain gauge. Oregon, I believe, only offers .325 in 16-20 " bars. (Might be wrong on this however) If you keep the old bar it must match the new chain with gauge. If you have a nose sprocket on the bar (most Stihl bars do) then the pitch of the saw drive sprocket and the bar nose sprocket must match the chain pitch.

Hopefully this clarifies and does not confuse the issue. If in doubt go into a Stihl dealer and have a conversation. Don't hurt yourself by tossing a high speed chain off a bar because there is a mismatch of components.