Stihl MS310 - Operation Issues

[art]

I have seen many people that there initial trials with the chain saws were in wood not capable of taxing the saw. They were also disapointed till getting into large wood.

 

[5030]

I have seen many people that there initial trials with the chain saws were in wood not capable of taxing the saw. They were also disapointed till getting into large wood.

In my younger days I had large wood but it's now a twig......

I believe the dude's chain is improperly sharpened or the rakers need lowered or both. Chain filing, like sharpening a twist drill is a mastered art and there are a whole bunch of shoemakers out there to a few good sharpening hands.

You can wack a perfectly good loop with just a couple poor strokes of the chain file. People 'think' they know what they are doing when, in fact, they just butchered a fine loop. Happens everyday. That's what the dealer grinds chains with a jig grinder, because shoemakers bugger the loops to the point where large amounts of tooth have to be removed to reset the cutter angle and gullet.

I have a 310 and an 028 with 404 chipper chain that wails through anything

 

[gengine]

I have seen many people that there initial trials with the chain saws were in wood not capable of taxing the saw. They were also disapointed till getting into large wood.

I second that. You buy a bigger saw with a bigger bar, but it won't cut any faster. It still cuts just as fast as the old saw. Until you get into bigger and more hard wood, you don't notice a difference. You gotta get into a spot where your old saw will be bogged down if not choked out completely, and the new, more powerful saw will plow on through. However, I also agree that "factory" rakes are still too tall for me, gotta file them down a little even on a brand new chain.

 

[turnkey4099]

I didnt' see it mentioned so:

1. With a sharp chain you should _never_ need to put any pressure on the saw, it should pull itself right on through.

2. If you need to put pressure on, your chain needs sharpening.

3. Please, please say "bar", not blade .

Harry K

 

[RobertN]

You talking about me???

I thought I was pretty good with a basic file and guide.... I thought my saws were cutting well. I always tried to keep the bar/chain out of the dirt ect. Also never let them get dull.

I got one of the Oregon clamp on jigs.OREGON brand products, chain saw chain and guide bars, accessories, and mower blades for homeowners

I found, that I was sharpening one side of the chain different from the other. One side had the correct angle, the other was off a bit... Huge immediate difference.

It only takes a short time to clamp the guide on and go over a chain on a 24" bar. Again, I try not to let the chains get dull, and lose temper. So most of the time it is just quick touchups. That includes checking/touching up the rakers.

You can wack a perfectly good loop with just a couple poor strokes of the chain file. People 'think' they know what they are doing when, in fact, they just butchered a fine loop. Happens everyday. That's what the dealer grinds chains with a jig grinder, because shoemakers bugger the loops to the point where large amounts of tooth have to be removed to reset the cutter angle and gullet.

I have a 310 and an 028 with 404 chipper chain that wails through anything