Swap ROPS bolt / pin

   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thank you all for reading & responding.

Oosik/Zebra - I tend to agree it feels like they just assembled them backwards.

Phantom - I did try just pulling the pin and folding around the bolt the first time but it's physically not possible. Trying to pivot from the center of the bar like that means the bottom part of it would need to come down slightly and it impacts the top of the frame underneath. Pivoting from slightly in front where I have the pin works.

DiggingIt - Great advice on the hinge bolt tightness; I'll keep that in mind.

Chevy - Your setup seems to confirm it - I think that is how it should be. What is the purpose of the 3rd/lowest bolt on yours? Does the rops just sit on that so it doesn't come all the way down?

I'll try to contact the dealer and see what they say about it; not too confident in their knowledge (mostly a rural supplies store) but maybe they can pass it on to Kioti to check.

Cheers,
-M.
 
   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin #12  
I'm a novice here, it looks correct to me, but it would e helpful to see a picture from the rear.

I assume below bolt #2 (see photo) is the separation in the bottom and top of the ROPS. The plate is welded to the bottom half.
Three scenarios perhaps?

First: Pin (#3) should be in the top hole (A) to keep it vertical. Bolt #1 is used to press the ROPS against the pin to keep from rattling.
Second: Pin in existing hole (B) allows the ROPS to drop through doorways. The end of the ROPS when dropped should swing near the area circled in black with red arrow.
Third: Pin in hole (C) allows it to drop even further. Although not sure why, maybe shipping.

I also assume if the ROPS isn't dropping per this photo, Bolt #2 has been over tightened to keep it in place. It should be loose enough to move without any tools necessary.
ROPS Capture.JPG
 
   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin
  • Thread Starter
#13  
East - thanks for taking the time to mark up that picture. Attached is one that shows it from the rear.
The plates are welded to the bottom frame. The round tube which the pin currently sits in is welded to the front of the top frame.
The reason it cannot pivot around bolt #2 is because the top half tries to fold down into that little gap and hits the bottom half. That doesn't happen when pivoting around the tube (B) so that is definitely the hinge point. When folding from there it does indeed swing out as you show with the arrow & circle. Bolt #2 must be removed for that to happen.
I think C does line up to allow locking part-way down. Don't recall A...I don't think it did so not sure what that one is for. If you don't pin it at all it'll fold all the way down...at least as far as resting on the flail mower currently attached.
Cheers.
 

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   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Feedback from dealer:
"Sorry you can't swap the bolts as the secure ones are high tensile just in case of a roll over. Means you have to loosen off each time".
He was not aware of an equivalent high tensile pin.
What a pain...maybe I need to build a bigger shed.
 
   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin #15  
Feedback from dealer:
"Sorry you can't swap the bolts as the secure ones are high tensile just in case of a roll over. Means you have to loosen off each time".
He was not aware of an equivalent high tensile pin.
What a pain...maybe I need to build a bigger shed.

I don't buy that. I am not an engineer, but do not think a bolt would be any better than a pin in roll over.
John Deere (on my 6415) uses pins. There is an eye bolt 23, (highlighted yellow) to prevent rattles. Probably an eye bolt, so no tool required to tighten. The pin 19 with the tethered hairpin (also highlighted yellow) is the pin you pull to fold the ROPS. 22 is the hinge pin. See drawing
 

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   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin #16  
"High tensile". Are there such things a tougher than Grade 8?? In a real roll over both the bolt AND the pin could be stressed. I would hope that both are "high tensile" - or whatever.
 
   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin #18  
^^ Perhaps we can post pictures here for all to see, now and in the future. Even those of us who are not Vidiots?
 
   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin #19  
This is how mine works. Can't find pictures of the OP's exact model, but some other brands appear to work differently.




ROPS Down 2.jpg ROPS Down.jpg ROPS Up 2.jpg ROPS Up.jpg
 
   / Swap ROPS bolt / pin #20  
Applying my version of common sense...

A removable pin should be used in a location where it is removed sometimes. Otherwise a bolt would suffice.

BOTH locations need a strong pin/Bolt to ensure the integrity of the ROPS if an accident occurs.

Putting the bolt in the location that facilitates the folding operation, without its removal makes sense.

Putting the pin in the location where it will be removed, when needed to fold the ROPS, makes sense.

In my world I would swap the bolt and pin and not think twice about it.
 
 
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