sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i

[SandburRanch]

I used a word I shouldn't have. STOP the sway. I should have said to reduce the sway to the correct amount and that can be adjusted with the x chains.

 

[SIMassey]

You don't want to stop the sway of an implement, only reduce it.(/QUOTE)

I agree for most implements, maybe except for a back blade that is angled. Most implements need to move some to reduce any damage to three point components. Many implements extend a long ways from the attaching pins and can create a tremendous amount of leverage that can damage expensive components if hooked on something and not allowed to swing.

.By that token, "xing" the chains seems like a bad idea. For starters, they could get caught in the PTO shaft. It's always been my idea of clear thinking to set a tractor up the way it comes from the factory. Just my two cents here.

I agree

 

[DavesTractor]

If you are not willing to cut a link or two to make an aftermarket set of sway chains work, then price the factory JD items. I bet it will be worth the 5 minutes with a hacksaw or 15 seconds with a cutoff wheel to cut off a link or two. This is super common, most often it has to be done. I think the problem is that Hoye did not set your expectations correctly. As dealers, we stock 2 or three basic sizes of aftermarket sway chains. Generally you can make one of them work on about any tractor, but almost always you have to cut or add a link. For the customer that looks at us goofy when we mention cutting a link, we offer the OEM assembly which is often 3-5x the $$. The factory links are a direct bolt on and generally high quality. But I am always amazed at the prices.

 

[DavesTractor]

On the "x" method of chaining, I can certainly see the leverage advantages, but I've never seen a factory setup that way. It could certainly get in the way of a drawbar or PTO shaft. I'd not recommend it.

As mentioned, the idea on most implements is to limit the sway. I like to leave a little slack so if I bump something while box scraping or mowing it does not immediately try to bend something.

 

[Azmotorhead]

Thank you Dave.
It would have saved me aggrivation and frustration if there would have been something that stated "links may need to be removed for proper fitment".
Thanks all for your inputs.
and no the chains should not be crossed

 

[hondo1894]

I've got a JD 650. Rear 3 point attachments are a Box scraper and blade.
I just purchased a set of sway chains from Hoye.
Problem is the sway chains seem too long even with turnbuckles turned all the way in.
Tractor used to have a set of original Deere sway chains but one side was missing a long clevis, and the other the turnbuckle was rustwelded together.
Called Hoye and they said theses were the ones applicable.
So what do i have wrong here??
View attachment 408931

View attachment 731175

 

[hondo1894]

View attachment 731175

I bought a set of sway bars for a kubota, a little cutting and rewelded the bushing on top of the bar instead of on the end for clearance of the frame and it's a perfect fit

 

[Leejohn]

A quick google image search netted a couple pics. Looks like everything is hooked up right... just too long of a chain. :confused3:

You can't adjust the ones in the picture without taking them loose.

 

[Leejohn]

i would just drill new holes in the lower links.

 

[dodge man]

A 6 year old zombie thread, I’d guess the op figured it out by now.