Synthetic Oil at 50 Hr. Service

[RalphVa]

There is really hardly any molecular difference between synthetic (at least M1; others may be different) oil and "dino" oil. Synthetic just has no "bad" stuff in it and no wax. Dino oil has some ppm amounts of "bad" stuff and has wax in it that was soluble to about 0 F. It will also have VI improver (more or less some other chemicals that make it flow at lower temps, down to -40 F typically; whereas, M1 and synthetics will flow at -40 F without additive) and pour depressant (might be separate chemical for VI improver, maybe same). Base stock dino oil will have a pour point of about 0 F only.

Without the additives and ppm levels of bad stuff, the synthetic oil will last longer against blow by gases put into it over time than dino oil, typically 2 to 3 times longer.

If your manual specifies 10w30, then 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30 would be appropriate. Likely, 0w30 and 5w30 were not available when the manual was written.

Ralph

 

[Texasmark]

switched to syn Rotella T6 5/40 @ 100 hrs. given your location, i'd go w/T6 rather than T5 for better cold weather starts, etc.

That's what mine get somewhere around 50-100 hrs new. Agree on the better cold weather starts and with new engines and high compression as a result of being new, they put the battery to the test if they have been sitting for a couple of months in the deep freeze......and that's in N. Tx., not N. Dakota!

 

[coyotef150]

Thank you all for your replies . I think I may check out the one local auto parts store close to me . They have a pretty good selection of oils that a big store may not. I haven't been to Walmart in probably a year and have been getting my car and truck stuff locally or online. I go near a Tractor Supply on my way home from work and they sell the T4 and T6 . Anyone have any thoughts on the Motorcraft diesel oils ? I know they have a 10W30 but I am not sure if it is synthetic. I am a Ford guy and that may be affecting my tractor oil choices a little bit too even though I know someone else bottles the Motorcraft oil.

 

[Sberry]

I love modern oil in old engines. We ran some samples. There are a few car engines that need regular changes but many can go a lonnnngggggg time. I put T6 in our 4020 doe xold starts and sampled at 250 hrs, said run 75 more and sample, I ran 250 more still said 50% and now run 7 or 800 and only change if its in for something in that time frame. We have reduced the use so its a factor, used to change 3x a year now change every 3 years.
These oils were not even a wet dream when these old engines were made and with some make up oil to refresh the additives its simply a matter how long the filter lasts provided there is no coolant leaks. I got several engines I will never change again unless they would be in for related service.
I hated all that continuous oil,,, spark plugs and points service.
The hours isnt that big a deal and there are no magic numbers, change it, get over it, run it 250 hrs and pull a full sample before warranty runs out. I put T6 in the lawn mower, reminds me its about due for its 5 year change.

 

[DonRybak]

With several diesel and gas powered vehicles I'm an avid Amsoil fan. With my Ram trucks taking 12 quarts per oil change I joined the preferred customer program for a minimal 6 month or annual fee I save over $3 per quart over the auto parts store prices. When my RK37 was coming up on the first 50hr service I was advised to wait until at least 100 hours before switching over to ensure the rings have positively seated in the cylinders.

 

[Sberry]

If it comes from the factory I am inclined to leave it alone a little. I don't think they even fuss with "break in" oil in card anymore but I want the real deal in it as fast as it can. Pull some load on it, make sure it's working and change to premium and run it.
There was some interesting reading along side Bob by some engineer types said lots of race engines ruined right off with race break in boutique type oils, skipping it and using regular could run some 5x as long or more. Bad for engine builder, good for car owner.

 

[Sberry]

There are a few car engines need regular change, got some rarely or never do anymore. Its worth a sample or 2 and really mostly for confidence. Some of these tractors are now so good they could go 1000s of hrs on changes
Same for some cars. I bought one with 100k on it, change 3x in the next 120 and engine still run while car broke.

 

[jaydee325]

This article pretty much covers the myths of break in requirements.

Engine Break-in: Truth, Lies, and What You Really Need to Know. - Articles - ThumperTalk

Of note in the article is when the manufacturer assembles the engine, they already have "dead run" the engine and then there is a subsequent run in at the end of the line to check for problems.

When I was a heavy equipment tech, any engine that was rebuilt in the shop was run in on a dyno. The procedure was to start the engine and allow to come up to operating temperature and checked over for problems. Then an 80% load was put on the engine at high idle and run at least 20 minutes. After that some throttle variations were performed to verify proper fueling. The whole process on the dyno took about 40 minutes. We considered the engines "broke in" at that point. The engines left with a warrenty and I don't recall any claims for engine issues that could be attributed to the break in process.