TC30 Starting Problem

[jn9230]

Follow-up:

6+ months and still no start.

I purchased a new battery. I disconnect it when not working on the tractor for longer periods of time, so not to be a victim of parasitic drain. I also keep a battery tender on it so not to discharge a brand new battery. Voltage seems good when I check it. All fuses good.

I parallelled the battery cables from (-) to frame ground and (+) to starter. Still, engine turn-over is intermittent. I have checked and double checked all the safety switches.

Now the glow-plug light stopped illuminating when trying to start. Engine does not turn over.

I would like to know if anyone has a pin-out, or continuity bench-check procedure for the key-switch (in each key-switch position). I would just replace the key-switch all together, but I cannot seem to find a cross-referenced key-switch from an auto parts store. I cannot seem to find a replacement key-switch.

Finally, I suspect the safety controller module is bad. There is no way to test it, and nowhere to buy a cross-referenced part that I know of. I sure hate to pay NH $550-$600, and I don't even know for sure if this is what's wrong.

Can anyone help me please? Thank you in advance.

 

[TractorTech]

Take a look at these TBN posts:

Upgrading ignition switch on New Holland TC33D

The starter switch seems to be a popular topic on these boards and mine is not working either. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with either replacing the OEM ignition switch with a third party that was more solid, or perhaps modified it with a push button starter. The OEM switches...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Harry in Ky]

How dedicated are you to factory OEM wiring/components with all safeties in effect? If that's a priority for you I will respectfully butt out. I tend to work around certain items I disagree with in order to simplify things but still get the job done. I find that many times people just want the damn thing to start and run.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Check your PM inbox

 

[nyone]

How dedicated are you to factory OEM wiring/components with all safeties in effect? If that's a priority for you I will respectfully butt out. I tend to work around certain items I disagree with in order to simplify things but still get the job done. I find that many times people just want the damn thing to start and run.

I would hope that after 6 months of a tractor not starting that he wouldnt be to attached to all the safety components..at least jump around them for diag purposes.

For the ignition pin out.. you dont really need that. Power in, power out. It's a simple switch. My ignition switch did have loose burnt terminals (tc40). I was able to clean them up and it fixed my starting/glow plug problem. Every thing worked fine for a few months now my glow plug light dosnt work but the glow plugs still work. Not something I'm in a rush to repair as the next fix will be just a large push button directly to the glow plugs. No extra components like a timer and I dont have to run the power through the ignition switch.

 

[jn9230]

How dedicated are you to factory OEM wiring/components with all safeties in effect? If that's a priority for you I will respectfully butt out. I tend to work around certain items I disagree with in order to simplify things but still get the job done. I find that many times people just want the damn thing to start and run.

Thanks for your post. I am not married to factory OEM wiring/components. Safety switches are easy to bypass when necessary, so I don't mind keeping them in place. I prefer simplicity, and seriously suspect the electronic safety controller.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The wiring diagram I saw doesn't show a dedicated safety controller. It's mainly a series of switches, relays, and a seat safety switch timer. (whatever that is)

 

[TractorTech]

Maybe referring to #44, Seat Switch Timer, which I would figure out how to eliminate.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Well as I see it on the diagram I'm looking at the start relay is grounded through all the safety circuits. The relay has a four pin connector with a black and white, a black and red, a white and black, and a yellow and black. The white and black is the ground wire. I would try skinning back some insulation off the white and black wire, attaching a jumper wire from there to ground and see if the starter will operate. If it does, then the relay, key switch, and related circuits are working. Back to the safety crap.

 

[thclimer]

If your ignition switch has a connector labeled as any in the attached it may help for testing. NAPA sells a much more beefy switch. I replaced my TC33D OEM switch which had melted with a NAPA and have not had any problem since 15+ years now.