TC33D wont start

[jinman]

... BUY the Repair Manual (or at least the wiring diagram).

You don't have to have the Repair Manual. Electrical schematics are part of the Operator's Manual. From his description, it sounds like something wired in series that should be in parallel (maybe when the mod was done). He needs to start at the big lug on the starter and find out where the power is dropping by tracing the circuits. Pulling fuses one at a time can also tell a story by eliminating whole sets of circuit loads.

 

[ctdave]

You don't have to have the Repair Manual. Electrical schematics are part of the Operator's Manual. From his description, it sounds like something wired in series that should be in parallel (maybe when the mod was done). He needs to start at the big lug on the starter and find out where the power is dropping by tracing the circuits. Pulling fuses one at a time can also tell a story by eliminating whole sets of circuit loads.

Yep, your right. Time to start looking down the whole **** system. I would have sworn that the relay upgrade was the fix as the tractor had the identical symptoms.

I'll report back after

David

 

[ctdave]

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy cow! Well, you are all free to call me a dumb azz:mur:
Remember all our lives when people told us "start with the easy things"? Well, nothing has ever been easy for me so I tend to go for the difficult.
After installing the new relay system & had the exact same problem, I started going relay by relay, harness by harness & wire by wire:confused2:
The battery always showed 12 volts but the system would die down to 4-6 volts when the key was turned on. I figured 12 volts was 12 volts so it couldn't be a battery problem:ashamed:
Yep, after checking all systems & working back to the battery, I found that as soon as power was drawn, it had a short inside. The battery actually was bulging on the back side.
Well, I have a new battery & the tractor is running just fine with the relay upgrade.

Thanks
David

 

[jinman]

Good troubleshooting! Everytime good troubleshooting wins over Easter egging, an angel gets their wings.:thumbsup:

 

[ctdave]

"Easter egging", I like that one!

Thanks again!

 

[doall]

we've all been there and done that. lol

 

[41Chev]

Is the circuit upgrade applicable to an 07 TC45DA? Tks Greg

 

[SteveInMD]

On the TC33D you would experience no crank when you turned the key, high current draw in the starting circuit, then a blown fuse. The problem this upgrade solves is a less-than-reliable starter solenoid throw-in (perhaps a partial throw-in) when the voltage delivered by the starting circuit is not optimal. The theory is the high current draw is caused by the slow or sub-par throw in. The fix reduces the voltage drop in the starting circuit by reducing the number of contacts. The TC33D OEM solenoid requires good voltage to operate reliably. I don't know if the TC45DA has the same issue. If you experience no crank and a blown fuse in the starting circuit this fix may help you.

You can also try replacing the fuse with a self resetting circuit breaker. The breaker will reset after a bad throw-in and no crank. Obviously this is a more simple approach that has served some people well here. I like my tractor to crank over every time I turn the key, and the wiring for the above fix is really pretty simple.

 

[edells]

Wow, am I glad I found this post. Should have looked here first!

All I did was some pre-winter maint. - lube, change oil and filter and clean corrosion from battery cable. And then she wouldn't start - just the click and buzzing. Crap! (you know that feeling) Go figure...

I had all the same symptoms, but on a 2001(?) TC35D, and pretty much did all the same trouble shooting and was just getting ready to call the flatbed to get her hauled in to the tractor shop. Then I found this post. I ordered up a new cable ($72 - because of the three moulded in wires and connectors, I guess), got it installed and she started right up. What a relief!! Thanks, Sherpa!

I'm thinking maybe over the years that corrosion crept into the cable and, even though it would show 12v at the starter, it wouldn't draw enough amps to engage the starter - just 'click'.

On the bright side, I guess it's better to have the problem and get it fixed now instead of being stuck and having to do it in a Wisconsin snow bank in January.

Thanks again, Sherpa, for the post back then. :thumbsup:

 

[brin]

So now it is my TC -29 D....won't start...just click a lot when I turn the key....I hate to say...I have not started it up in 6 mos...Soooo....I have the battery on charge...cleaned the cables...and will try it again tomorrow after charging over night...It almost sounds like it is double clicking from the starter and solenoid...I checked a quick pull, tug and visual on the cables and they seem to be sound...Just a couple of weeks ago I had noticed the battery posts had a lot of corrosion so I cleaned all of that off and cleaned the posts...but after reading this thread I am wondering if I have corrosion in the cables themselves that is internal which I can't see...I guess I will know tomorrow when I try it...

If anyone has any ideas...I am all ears...especially about what my next step is if it does not start tomorrow after charging all night....I guess I could drive it down to Texas to Jim....Jinman or one of you other fellas...LOL

Thanks in advance for any ideas...I do my own maintenance but lay no claims to being a mechanic...not since the cars etc. up until the '60's