tc35d #2 fuse blows intermittently

[Earthloc]

Thanks for making me take another look at the battery connections. I had previously checked them at least four or five times. It was originally my first thought as to being the problem. I did all the normal things, new battery, clean positive cable connectors, pulled the ground cable off the frame, cleaned and re-bolted it. I even ran a direct ground from the negative side of the battery to a starter bolt. In addition to cleaning the positive side, I checked continuity and voltage. So naturally, I didn't find the connections to be the problem. What I didn't check was with a load on the cable.

When I put a load on I lost all power. I had figured some of the safety features were kicking my butt. Bare in mind that everything looked new, all factory, clean and neat. I wasted a ton of time and energy but I sure know a **** of a lot about my tractor now.

Here's how I found the problem. I ran a separate positive cable directly from the battery to the power wire at the ignition switch. Low and behold, everything worked. Both the starter and alternator are disconnected. I moved my wire from the ignition switch to the starter wire connection, it worked. Then I used the alternator wire connection, it worked. I then peeled back insulation right next to the battery connector and connected my wire to the bare cable and worked again. Then I clipped it directly to the lead of the connector and it worked. Well there it was, there had to be corrosion where the factory cable wire was crimped into the lead connector. I cut the cable off the factory connector and bolted a new one on and it's fixed.

I haven't been able to start the tractor yet because my new starter hasn't come in. I noticed my glow plug light is now red, I don't remember it being red. I thought it was orange. That's just something I never paid attention to. I did notice the the glow plug light would sometimes come on for a few seconds even after the tractor was running. I think low or fluctuating amps may have been what caused that and my old starter to go out. I'll post back when I get my new starter installed.

Thanks for you help. It's always the simple problems the are the easiest to over look. Take care, Larry

 

[jinman]

You bet Larry, it's always the low-tech stuff that sneaks up on you. I'm really pleased you found the major problem.:thumbsup:

I agree with you that the glowplug light is amber or yellow. The only reason I can think it would be red is if it is not getting full voltage and the light filament is not glowing as brightly as it should.

If you glowplug light cycles on/off without power being shut off, then you most certainly need a new glowplug timer. That's another $65+. There's always a reason to spend money on these tractors, it seems. My light would come on at odd times, but replacing the timer cured the problem completely.

 

[Earthloc]

I really don't care what color it is as long as the tractor runs right. I cut the cable apart and they had crimped the insulation inside the connector. It made very little contract. ****** work. Take care, Larry

 

[Earthloc]

How do I identify the glow plug timer? Larry

 

[jinman]

How do I identify the glow plug timer? Larry

It's under your left side cowling below the steering wheel and below the relays (hi-lited with the red box below). On the cover it will say "Lamp Timer" and I believe be manufactured by NGK. It might be Hitachi, but I believe it is NGK.

 

[Earthloc]

Thanks, it's on e-bay for $13.95. Same as Kubota NGK glowplug lamptimer S81NL, free shipping. Can't beat that. Larry

 

[jinman]

Thanks, it's on e-bay for $13.95. Same as Kubota NGK glowplug lamptimer S81NL, free shipping. Can't beat that. Larry

Thanks, you just made lots of folks smile with that info.:thumbsup:

 

[Earthloc]

Got mine back together today. Ran fine, I did a little dirt work. The starter didn't quite sound right. When I went to park it I decided to start and stop it several times to listen to the starter. On the third start, it didn't. I bypassed the safety relay and it would turn over but wouldn't start. I decided to check fuses. Number two was blown and it was 10A. I replaced it with a 20A and it runs fine. However, that's not the right fix, I believe I have an intermittent dead short in one of the safety wires, I've already bypassed the PTO and seat, long time ago. I think maybe one of the wires has a worn spot thru the insulation and it shorts out at times. Years ago when I bypassed the seat, I just pushed the wires down thru a hole under the seat, mistake. Now I would have to pull the tank to find them. Tomorrow I am going to bypass all three of them at the beginning of the wiring bundle. the only one I don't like bypassing is the PTO. It a D model, so starting it in gear doesn't matter, it's not like a standard, you have to mash a petal to make it move. The seat safety switch is a joke.
Lots of times I want it running when I'm off seat, like using a log splitter.

 

[jinman]

You need to get that 20 amp fuse out of the fuse #2 position and replace it with a self-resetting 10 amp circuit breaker. This has been posted about dozens of times on TBN. If you leave that 20 amp fuse in, you'll likely burn up some wires at some point. The circuit breaker will open if there is an occasional overload, but it resets almost immediately and gives you a second chance without endangering your circuits.

What is a problem with all our similar tractors is a poorly designed starting circuit. After a tractor gets older and switches/relays start to get a little contact resistance, they drop voltage just enough that the starter solenoid doesn't get full current. The solenoid has high current pull-in windings and low-current hold-in windings. If the solenoid isn't fully engaged, it stays on the high current winding and the fuse pops. Your book doesn't say it, but fuse #2 supplies power to the solenoid, not power to the starter motor, but power to energize the solenoid through its high/low current windings.

There is a fix for this problem that adds a high current relay close to the solenoid that will not drop the voltage and always give the solenoid all the power it needs to fully engage. However, most of us who have put in a self-resetting circuit breaker we bought at an auto parts store do not have enough of a problem to worry about. Sometimes my tractor won't start, but it may only be one or two times in a year or less.

Please don't leave that 20 amp fuse in the circuit. Most likely it will eventually blow too and it may take some wiring with it when it does. Look for a 10 self-resetting CB at Autozone or some other parts store. They fit exactly where the fuse does. They have legs that break off in segments so they are the same height and size as the fuse.

 

[Earthloc]

Thanks, I have already bypassed the starting circuit. I have a direct 12v from the switch to the starter solenoid. That should solve the problem. Works like a charm. Yep, I have already put a 10amp fuse back. Thanks to our government what should be simple is made complicated. And, that's why they cost so much. They just keep protecting us from ourselves. Take care, Larry