Tell me about pre-emergent herbicides

[HawkinsHollow]

I just cleaned up an area on my property that has been overgrown for a couple of years. I store some implements there, some random metal, just kind of a catch all area for stuff I don't use often. Once it starts getting away from me in the spring I just leave it and it looks like crap, my goal is not to let that happen this year. So I just organized and palletized all the junk and plan to put it back in a more organized manner. Before I do I was thinking about putting a pre-emergent down to kill the weeds. But looking at the label for a pre-emmergent called Barricade lots of things seem to be tolerant. Seems like pre-emergents are for lawns and such. What can you tell me about pre-emergent herbicides?

If worse comes to worse I will just hit it with glycophosphate once the weeds start to pop-up and that should take care of 75% of my issues.

 

[Jstpssng]

6 inches of concrete will do wonders for the weeds.

I know, that isn't what you asked.

 

[jyoutz]

I just cleaned up an area on my property that has been overgrown for a couple of years. I store some implements there, some random metal, just kind of a catch all area for stuff I don't use often. Once it starts getting away from me in the spring I just leave it and it looks like crap, my goal is not to let that happen this year. So I just organized and palletized all the junk and plan to put it back in a more organized manner. Before I do I was thinking about putting a pre-emergent down to kill the weeds. But looking at the label for a pre-emmergent called Barricade lots of things seem to be tolerant. Seems like pre-emergents are for lawns and such. What can you tell me about pre-emergent herbicides?

If worse comes to worse I will just hit it with glycophosphate once the weeds start to pop-up and that should take care of 75% of my issues.

There are several different formulations of pre-emergent herbicides. They don’t kill existing plants, just prevent seeds from germinating. I would check with your cooperative extension agent for recommendations on the formulation and application frequency that’s best for your area.

 

[ponytug]

I just cleaned up an area on my property that has been overgrown for a couple of years. I store some implements there, some random metal, just kind of a catch all area for stuff I don't use often. Once it starts getting away from me in the spring I just leave it and it looks like crap, my goal is not to let that happen this year. So I just organized and palletized all the junk and plan to put it back in a more organized manner. Before I do I was thinking about putting a pre-emergent down to kill the weeds. But looking at the label for a pre-emmergent called Barricade lots of things seem to be tolerant. Seems like pre-emergents are for lawns and such. What can you tell me about pre-emergent herbicides?

If worse comes to worse I will just hit it with glycophosphate once the weeds start to pop-up and that should take care of 75% of my issues.

Have you thought of a barrier fabric and thin layer of dirt/gravel on top? It will keep pretty much anything from growing.

I am a fan of preventing growth, rather than applying herbicides.

All the best,

Peter

 

[jaxs]

You are correct about certain weeds being tolerant to certain herbicides. 1st order of business is to identify each weed you need to control. 2nd order of business is determining which can be controlled following year by mowing this year before seeds set. To elaborate on last statement,some plants drop seed each year that will germinate in 1 through 5 succeeding years while other species will drop seed that 80% of germinate following year. It's that last bunch that can be controlled by mowing before seed set. Next is to find which herbicide is most effective on the worst remaining offender(s). If troublsome weeds remain you can often mix a herbicide with first IF RECCOMENDED TIME FOR SPRAYING IS SAME. Otherwise you'll have to do multiple sprays. I prefer to allow some desirable plant take over rather than trying to keep ground bare. Clover will establish and shade out most spring/summer germinating weeds but allow Bermuda to thrive and weeds in Bermuda can be sprayed in Summer if required. Same as mowing,timing is important when using herbicides.
In some cases I've had good luck with one or more goats. I always have a few cattle panels that are'nt being used so I set them up in a briar patch or around implements so that goat(s) clean it up. I've found that a goat quickly imprints with a cow herd and never strays far after crawling through fence so when there's no job I let it run with cows.

 

[workinonit]

Pramitol. I use it in my ditches mixed with Roundup and 2,4 D. It's a soil sterilizer.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Barricade. Very cost effective and long lasting. 16 oz will cover an acre for $20 for 5 months.

 

[Alan W.]

Pramitol. I use it in my ditches mixed with Roundup and 2,4 D. It's a soil sterilizer.

Yes on the Pramitol. I have used it with great results on gravel parking areas. But it only keeps it from sprouting.
I mix Roundup and 2,4 D for active growth also.

 

[nyone]

Have you thought of a barrier fabric and thin layer of dirt/gravel on top? It will keep pretty much anything from growing.

I am a fan of preventing growth, rather than applying herbicides.

All the best,

Peter

That will work until weed seeds blow into the layer ontop of the fabric.

Personaly I would just leave the gaps between each attachment wide enough for my lawn mower and glyphosate as needed.

 

[scootr]

I use 2 types of glyphosate. The regular type kills most weeds until the next round germinates, then repeat. Last year I bought more expensive RM 43 which has a re-emergent agent. I used that in areas where I want nothing to grow. Those areas are dead dead with no new growth 6 mos later.