The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions

   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #1  

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New member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
23
Location
Mocksville, NC
Tractor
John Deere 2030, 6320, 720D, 455, 322
Hi folks,
Searching for clues of where to start on my 2030. I'm having an issue with my batteries dying overnight. Recently replaced them for the second time, but if the tractor sits for more than a day, the batteries will not turn it over. I can hook the charger to them for a few minutes and it fires right up. So.....any idea what is pulling the batteries down overnight? I remove the key after shut down, but I have a feeling there is a slow draw on the system. Ideas?

Thanks,

Tim
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #2  
Probably a ground/short somewhere. Spend a few minutes and check all the wiring you can to look for a bare spot, chaffing, or a connection that is shorting. It would be a small area of contact, otherwise it would blow a fuse or create a lot of heat. Those things aren't always easy to find.

A simple way to help locate the region of the problem... Pull a fuse or 2. Let it sit for a day and see if the discharge still happens. If no discharge, then you know to investigate the components and wiring in that circuit.

You can also use a multi meter or test light to probe for current. That requires a little more explanation.

Side note -- Until you locate the draw, don't run a charger for long. Depending on what's drawing the current, an inexhaustible power supply could start a fire.
 
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   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yeah, I've been dreading that task. The 2030 (and the likes) are not a pleasure to work on that portion of the tractor. You dang near have to disassemble it to gain access to that region.
Thank you
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #4  
The 2030 has 2 side panels that come off easy that allows access to battery compartment . Unless it has a lot of aftermarket add ons It should be an easy diagnosis. I would first unplug the light harness from the switch. The wire runs under a cover over the rock shaft and up into the fenders. These old wires tend to get brittle. second is the alt. wire and idiot lights are the only other electrical components on the tractor besides the starter.
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #5  
Could be the alternator too. A bad diode could do that, but still charge when it's running.

Like M5farms said, it's a short list...
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Yeah, I've been dreading that task. The 2030 (and the likes) are not a pleasure to work on that portion of the tractor. You dang near have to disassemble it to gain access to that region.
Thank you
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #7  
Simple test is park your tractor with batteries fully charged then disconnect alternator. When you return to tractor if it cranks then alternator/regulator is the drain. I thought the alternator wires were very accessible on a 2030.
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #8  
No fuses on a 2030, only a circuit breaker. I suspect alternator or voltage regulator.
Disconnect the positive battery cable. Rig a light between the battery and positive cable. Disconnect things until the light goes out.
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions #9  
There's plenty of YouTube videos on "Parasitic Drain".
I dealt with this on my 91 Jeep Wrangler. I used a multi-meter in the "amps" mode and connected it in series on the negative side. Didn't want to take a chance of shorting the meter to ground connected to the pos battery cable.
As others have said disconnect the alternator first and see if that's the problem. Then disconnect connectors from the main harness one at a time looking for the current draw to drop.
 
   / The beginnings of a long list of 2030 questions
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks for the ideas. I'll try the alternator first, then work back from there.
Tim
 
 
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