I'm not surprised the JD dealer blew you off when you came into their shop. All the "big brand" dealers treated me the exact same way, wouldn't have cared if I'd have burst into flames in the middle of their dealer showroom. Any business that treats me like that doesn't see my shadow darken their doorway again. When I was tractor shopping, I was in serious need of a tractor *right now*. I wasn't tire kicking.
I ended up buying my dealer, not my brand. I'd never heard of Branson tractors until I found this dealer.
Anyway,
I would look at a rig with at least 30 hp minimum *
at the pto*, and not necessarily what is produced at the engine crankshaft. It's the pto power that drives the tools. And a tractor is ultimately a power source for a tool, mower, tiller,
chipper, etc. Also, like others have said, I would be looking at tractors big and heavy enough that you really don't want to be driving them across your actual lawn areas around your house. So, a riding mower for the actual "lawn" grass is a good idea. Weight is normally your friend. My cabbed tractor weighs 4100 lbs "bare tractor" weight. Means no FEL and no attachment on the rear 3 pt. I did have my rear tires filled with Rimguard, which helps substantially with traction and stability. With the FEL, bucket, filled rear tires, and 6' box blade on the rear 3 pt hitch, my tractor weighs 7100 pounds. That's a lot of traction weight that I appreciate having.
I have 32 hp at my pto, and I run a 6' medium duty brush hog. I almost never have power issues, and can normally mow at a forward speed that is only regulated by the smoothness of the ground. Too rough a ground and you're going to slow down anyway. My road ditches are usually pretty smooth, but my pasture is pretty darn rough, so I go slower there. I've had no problems hogging 2" brush, or weeds and small brush 5' to 6' high.
I absolutely LOVE my cab! For obvious reasons right now, it was -33 F here at the house this morning. I didn't have to push snow this morning, but with a heated cab, I'm insulated from the cold, can push snow in a sweatshirt and jeans, and I'm isolated from any winds. Pretty sweet. During the summer, it can get over 90 F here, and the humidity can also get to 90 %. Having a cab with A/C, a radio, cruise control (for the smooth parts) means I'm always comfortable. After a day of mowing mine and my neighbor's pastures and road ditches, I come out of the cab clean and not wiped out from the heat. On the occasions where I kick up a wasp/hornet nest while mowing, I can chuckle and keep going as they buzz angrily around my cab, until they finally lose interest and buzz off.
Make sure you look at lift specs on your prospective models. I was quite surprised to see how pathetic some of the specs were on a few of the "name brand" tractors. Look at both FEL specs, AND 3 pt specs. Also adjustable lift arms on BOTH sides of the 3 pt shouldn't be something you have to order separately. Things like mirrors, steps, front and rear work lights, cruise control, linked pedals, diff lock, SSQA compatible FEL, are all things you really shouldn't have to pay extra to get, just because it's a "big name" brand and color.
Interview as many dealers as you can. It's a job interview. You're hiring one of them to be *your* tractor dealer. Drive as many tractors as you can as well as every brand you can sit your butt in, too.