Tie Rod / Ball Joint Assembly on Cub 2554

[cager]

I've got a Cub 2554 (2005 model year) with 325 hours. While mowing this past Saturday...the right front tie rod came apart from the ball joint assembly. I guess it simply wore out. I tried inserting the ball joint into the assembly but to no avail. Of course, with the tie rod not connected...there is no steering. My first frustration: I had just started mowing my 1.5 acres of grass. My second frustration: None of the nearby Cub dealerships or any other tractor dealers for that matter were open on a Saturday afternoon. Figuring a dealership wouldn't have this particular part on hand, I ordered the parts on-line Sat night. Today, out of curisoty, I called my local Cub dealer today and they had several of these ball joint assembly's in stock. So I picked one up. When the mail order arrives, I'll have a couple for inventory.
Here's my questions for those who might have some insight:
1. Is 325 hours par for the course for these ball joint assemblys?
2. Should I replace all four of these ball joints while at it or just replace as they wear out?
3. Will I need to check the front wheel "toe" after replacing a ball joint assembly?
Apart from a belt or two, routine maintenance and replacing a couple deck wheel axels, this machine has and continues to be a work horse. Thanks for your input.

 

[OldMachinist]

I think 300+ hours is pretty good for the ball joints and I would replace them all. You don't want to lose steering at the wrong time. If you mark the rods before you take the old ones off the adjustment should be very close.

 

[cager]

Old Machinist...
Thanks for the feedback. I installed the ball joint assemblys. Still have some tweaking to do on the toe-in...but at least the tractor is now steerable.

 

[JTKub]

Yep, I'd also think 300hrs/5yrs is pretty good for those. My property is so rough, bumpy and requires lots of turns, so I should probably stock up on some as well. Yes, I do recall the complete loss of steering control when I broke the steering gear on my 2544. Both wheels went full toe-out on me \----/. I'd personally replace them as they go, but you can't beat OMs advice for sure.

Joel

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

I replaced the tie-rod ends several times on my 1450. In a pinch I removed the worn end, greased the ball good and reinserted in the socket. I then took a center punch and made indentations near the edge of the socket all around the ball. This closed the opening enough to keep the ball in place so I could finish mowing. I saved a couple repaired ends for an emergency after installing the new ones. My 3235 has much larger ends and still feel tight after 300 hours.

Bob B.

 

[micman32]

I had to replace one on the left side of my 2518. It was a real pia to get back up to my garage. I called my dealer and luckily I was still under warranty so he stopped by and fixed it. No problems since

Michael

 

[mark1]

When my ball jts went bad I bough a few rod end bearings from my local Timken bearing store.their left hand or right hand threaded 3/8" and you put a 3/8" bolt thru the end.The best thing about them is that they are greasable and a lot heaftier than the Cub parts. And less than 5 bucks each .See Mcmaster parts- http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=4onkms

 

[moe1942]

When my ball jts went bad I bough a few rod end bearings from my local Timken bearing store.their left hand or right hand threaded 3/8" and you put a 3/8" bolt thru the end.The best thing about them is that they are greasable and a lot heaftier than the Cub parts. And less than 5 bucks each .See Mcmaster parts- McMaster-Carr

Eactly what I was going to recommend. In fact for a one tractor home I would do it from the beginning.

 

[JTKub]

Mark, good call on those McMaster-Carr/Timken joints. I suppose you *could* argue using a super strong joint like that would push forces to other more rare and expensive components on the tractor when something has to give, but then again, it depends on the circumstance.

Joel

 

[mark1]

I think the original joints would last longer if we would wiggle back the rubber seal and drip a bit of oil into the ball/socket, but I never did.I replaced the joints over 20 years ago with the rod end bearings and have done some rough mowing ever since. with my 1450 cub.