Tilt no mo'

[jinman]

Tilt no mo\'

I was using my subsoiler today to dig up some shallow roots in brush when I heard a crack and looked back to see that a lynch-pin had been plucked out of the left lower link. As a result the arm came off the pin and the subsoiler twisted. the stress was enough on the remaining right lift arm to snap the welded-on fork off the bottom of my tilt cylinder (see attachment). I think the weld should have been a lot better than the picture shows, but all things considered, it will be an easy repair. I'll also take this opportunity to take about 1-1/2" off the cylinder's rod because it's about that much too long.

The way I figure it is if you work in brush enough, you are going to have these things happen from time to time. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[JimR]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

Grind a large bevel on the end of your piston rod before you weld it up. It will not break the next time.

 

[johndeere2210]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

I don't know for sure, but I think that if this is a two-way cylinder you could damage the piston and/or piston seals by shortening the cylinder rod. It will bottom out in the retracted position before the piston bottoms out inside the cylinder. Maybe some one else knows more about it, but I think I would check it out. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[beenthere]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

I have replaced most of my lynch pins with ¼" bolts and lock nuts, just for that reason. Have had too many get torn loose by brush, and have heard of disasters much more expensive than yours. You were lucky, as was I, when I lost mine.

It is not often that several of the lynch pins need to be quickly removed, so the bolts (of which I have only had to remove one) are not much of a nuisance to me. But they stay put.

 

[theonlybull]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

actually, by the looks of the cyl, if you shorten it that much, it will bottom out on the end of the cyl ( which isn't a real big deal) but the weld will try to go under the end seal, and will ruin your seal.

push your piston all the way in, and mark where it enters the seal. then pull it all the way out b4 welding, and make sure nothing goes past that mark, or you'll have troubles.

 

[PineRidge]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

Jim I look at you as our TBN test pilot for Class III Boomer's, if it's a weak part you are sure to find it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'm not implying that you are hard on your equipment as I know better, simply put you use your equipment it doesn't grow dust from sitting unused.

Sorry you had a problem but it sounds to me that you were needing an excuse to shorten that cylinder anyway. Another member made mention to bevel the piston rod before making the weld and we think that's the best way to make a strong repair. Time to brush up on the stick welder.

 

[MikePA]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

<font color="blue">It will not break the next time. </font>
Nope, something else will. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[jinman]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

JimR: </font><font color="blue" class="small">( Grind a large bevel on the end of your piston rod before you weld it up. )</font>

You are exactly right, Jim. I didn't mention anything about it, but I think my TISCO cylinder should have been welded much better. My welder and my level of experience are not that good, but my NH dealer has excellent welding in his shop. I'm going to take the cylinder to them and ask that the rod be cut and beveled before being rewelded.

MikePA, it might break somewhere else, but I don't think that's a good reason to not make the best weld possible. I don't really think that's what you meant, but you are right that the weakest part will always give up under stress. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

johndeere2210 & theonlybull: Thanks! Your advice is excellent. It turns out that the rod has 5" sticking out when fully retracted. I'm baffled as to why the cylinder had about twice as much rod as needed for it's full travel. Maybe that was to keep heat away from the seals while welding on the end of the rod. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Anyway, after I shorten the rod, it will still have over 3" to spare when retracted.

beenthere: I change implements a lot. Yesterday, I had a boxblade, two different style bale spears, and the subsoiler on my 3PH in a period of less than two hours. Generally, with my boxblade and bale spears, there is no danger of getting the lynchpins plucked out. I had a brainstorm and decided to try the subsoiler to grub up some roots. It's pins are very exposed and my decision to use the cheap, 3-for-a-$1 lynchpins was a mistake. Your method of using bolts is one I've used before. Also I use a hairpins and push them all the way through when I run my rotary cutter. I've found lynchpins that cost $1.50 ea are much better, but don't get your finger caught in them. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I'm attaching a picture of the "good, bad, and ugly" pins. The brass color pin is cheap and ends up like the stack of bad/ugly pins in the upper left of the picture. The larger pin is much better and the hairpin is almost foolproof when pushed all the way down into the big loop. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

PineRidge: TBN test pilot? Hmm... Doesn't that pay twice as much as a TBN moderator? I'll be rich! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[MadReferee]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Grind a large bevel on the end of your piston rod before you weld it up. It will not break the next time. )</font>

All the beveling in the world will not help if you don't get proper penetration. Having an experienced welder weld the fork to the hard piston is a good idea.

 

[MikePA]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

<font color="blue">but you are right that the weakest part will always give up under stress. </font> \
Yep, that's what I meant. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Whenever I repair something and think about strengthening it, I try and figure out if the same stress is applied in the future, what 'new part' will break. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif