Tilt no mo'

[Bully]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

I keep my welding rod in a Tupperware made to hold spagetti, Out of that whole drawer full of lids, I found one that will fit something

 

[oliver28472]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

I bought a rod container at TSC. It looks like a tube, has 4 compartments for different rods, and a threaded cap with o-ring seal.

 

[_RaT_]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

I had a top link that rather then the end break off, just bent the rod, I would have preferred the end break off. You are correct. Looking at the weld, there was very little penetration in Jinman's link . You could do a critical weld and do a grind but bare in mind, you will be heating that rod very hot with the amount of welding that will be needed to do root and filler passes.

 

[_RaT_]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

<font color="blue">I agree that a 7018 is a better choice. Many people use 6013 rods because they are easy to make a good looking weld but a 6011 would be better than a 6013. Turn the heat up to 120+ amps and use DC with a nickel composition rod because the vibration in the application needs the elasticity of the nickel. </font>

Not to mention Mark that the ability for 6011 to penetrate is far superior then 6013

 

[joes_427_vette]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

Jinman; You bring up an interesting point. I have a HST and a HLT pair of cylinders on my tip and tilt. I always wondered why the tip cylinder was so long and that it only retracted a short distance exposing approx. 3 inches of cylinder. Your post reminded me of this making me wonder if I got the wrong length cylinder and why it doesn't retract more. It only needs about 6" of travel to be effective. If it would ever fail I would be planning how to clamp it in the bandsaw. By the way... how did you get enough traction to break it? At times I wonder if my 45 could pull the hat off a chicken. jr

 

[jinman]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It reminded me that I need to get in touch with you about a new toplink. Mine is just "okay" and I'd much prefer to have one of yours with the piloted check valve and some small 1/4" hoses. I'll try to give you a call tomorrow. )</font>

I placed my order with Mark and received my new toplink on Monday, 1/3/2005. What a nice experience! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Mark asked many questions to ensure I was ordering the right part and the shipment arrived in good shape and much quicker than I ever expected. Thanks Mark! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'll get the toplink installed this upcoming weekend and post a photo. It looks exactly like what I wanted. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

ALSO: I picked up my welded/shortened sidelink from my NH dealer last week and re-installed it. It's much better being 1-1/2" shorter. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The handcrank adjustable link on the left side can now be shortened so that it is in no danger of coming unthreaded from being extended too far. It now sits just over mid-adjustment. The weld on the cylinder's rod also looks very good. They disassembled the cylinder while welding to ensure the seals didn't get overheated. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

Jim I think you are going to see a BIG difference in the way the double piloted check valve holds your new cylinder as opposed to the one that you had repaired.

When you get tired of messing with that original cylinder why not use it for a bucket grapple and get yourself another cylinder from Mark to complete your T&T setup. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[jinman]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jim I think you are going to see a BIG difference in the way the double piloted check valve holds your new cylinder as opposed to the one that you had repaired.
)</font>

Mike, the one I had repaired was my sidelink, whereas the toplink is the one I got from Mark. The sidelink I have works great and seems to be rock solid. Since our lift arms are controlled by a single-acting cylinder in the 3PH, the sidelink is just not as critical ( since if you drop the 3PH too far, it's going to float anyhow).

When I go forward and backward with my boxblade I normally see at least 1" play in the toplink cylinder and that's what I want to prevent with the new cylinder in addition to the fact that my old toplink is really too long for my tractor.

I sure will be keeping my old toplink for some other project. It probably won't be the grapple. I think ATI sells their grapple already with a cylinder and I'll be buying theirs or the one on ebay after I get my rock rake/bucket. ...future toys. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

P.S. Are you digging out under the ice storm today? We are just having a tiny cold snap and you guys are getting beat up. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[HayDR]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

Jinman,
Thanks but the credit goes to Jim McCuan.
I was selling these hydraulic toplinks with check valves 6 years ago but Jim McCuan put the TNT system together and engineered the sidelink with an interchangeable linkage set up with the hydraulic cylinder factory.
Mark Carter

 

[PineRidge]

Re: Tilt no mo\'

Jim actually it's been raining here for the past two days. All the ice and snow is gone. We were a little concerned as yesterday the weather man said the rain would convert to snow and since a storm was moving in things would get nasty real quick.

We knew a truckload of merchandise was scheduled to be here today at 2 PM and our fingers were crossed. The truck was on time for a change, the merchandise off-loaded with the help of the tractor and quickly moved to our storage area. We have yet to see the snow they promised. So, I guess we must be living right. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

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