tire studs

   / tire studs #21  
I could see how that's possible, I'll have to watch on the fronts at least, at they might actually wear down enough to matter in the next decade. The rears would have to wear something like 2" and I think to operate on my hills I'd have to replace the tires before then.
I think that if I don't do alot of tire spinning I should be OK as I agree that snapping the heads off could be an issue if they spin and catch.

I've never snapped a head off an ice screw. If you're snapping heads off you're probably using soft sheet metal screws. The ice screws are hardened and you will pull them out before snapping them. More exactly... in my extensive experience with these screws, you may have to tighten them back into the tire over time if you abuse them. They will slowly unscrew over time if you are say riding an ATV in rocky areas in harsh conditions. Lets be clear.. not what the screws were made for and once ice screws wear on the cutting edges you will have less traction not more on paved surfaces and on sheetrock for example. Change the screws. Remove screw from hole, screw another new screw back in the same hole. Go play and prepare be amazed.. They work.
 
   / tire studs #22  
I have had exceptional results with studding tires on off road motorcycles. It may be an apples to oranges comparison but they are subjected to very high stresses too. Frankly, I have only tried metal screws but with good results. Maybe I got lucky on my choice of screws but I didn't use self tapping and that may be the difference. I looked at the ice screws and bought the closest thing I could find for metal.

The first time I installed screws, it was late fall before our first snow fall and from the first trial run on a local trail it was immediately obvious that the studding was like the difference between 2WD and 4x4. I have never used them on a tractor but if they offer anything close to the motorcycle's improvement on ice,snow,dirt,logs,loam.hardpack soils,etc......I agree, "prepare to be amazed". I have, at times used a studded rear tire for all season riding since. I have never gotten a flat from them and I have had a few pull out but even that is rare. I also don't ever recall snapping a head off of one. Think about your pattern, you don't want to place them so there will be too few in contact to help bite. One or two small screw heads in contact at any time isn't going to do much. You want to space them around the radius of the tread in alternating rows ( for lack of a better way of saying it) so the heads aren't just digging straight lines as the tires turn. Place them so to make sure that if the tires spin that the heads will bite every surface, just like the tread itself. Yes, A "true" studded tire takes a LOT of screws....the more you use, the better results you will have. There's a lot of online info about how to do it to motorcycle and atv tires, how far you want to take that towards your tractor is up to you. These guys are looking for, and getting traction that is almost like riding on dry pavement so studding your tractor for zero tire spin like they are is probably not practical from a dollar perspective but I think you could find a happy medium with sheet metal screws.
 
   / tire studs #23  
I've never snapped a head off an ice screw. If you're snapping heads off you're probably using soft sheet metal screws. The ice screws are hardened and you will pull them out before snapping them. More exactly... in my extensive experience with these screws, you may have to tighten them back into the tire over time if you abuse them. They will slowly unscrew over time if you are say riding an ATV in rocky areas in harsh conditions. Lets be clear.. not what the screws were made for and once ice screws wear on the cutting edges you will have less traction not more on paved surfaces and on sheetrock for example. Change the screws. Remove screw from hole, screw another new screw back in the same hole. Go play and prepare be amazed.. They work.
I am using soft sheet metal screws, but I've done another 3 hours of plowing and they all seem to be doing just fine. I didn't want to go for the ultimate in grip as I leave the tractor in 4wd for the winter and I still need some slippage for the odd full lock turn with a 1000lb bale on the front...
 
   / tire studs #24  
Well, I gave up on winter yesterday and I took out the screws in my tires.
Overall they worked well but I did have a couple come loose in the front tires as they seem to do most of the sliding and side slipping to counter act the sideways pushing of the rear blade. I learned that they have to tight enough to dimple into the tire a bit as those ones seemed to stay tight. So after about 8 hours of plowing they look pretty good and I had no problems removing them and I will reuse them next winter. It only took about 10 minutes to remove all of them and next year I'll do a rear tire pattern that doesn't have the fenders get in the way so I won't have to reposition the tractor a couple times.
My maintenance manager was also inspecting the work I did on my 50hr service.
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I was tempted just to leave them in all summer but I will do some road running to the other end of the property and I think the fronts would get ripped out doing alot of loader work in 4wd.
 
 
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