I'm wanting to replace the stock fronts 27x8.50x15 with 27x10.50x15 my question is would I have to change to a wider rim and would this put to much stress on the front end (4x4)? The ground I'm working on is a little wet the extra width would help with sinking I know it would still sink but not as bad. Thanks
Tires for front of L2501
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Texasmark
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My experience with FEL tires, like on my 2400, 1800+ tractor without accounting for FEL weight, is that the wheel is as wide as the tire and the sidewall is short, PSI is 35 with 4 ply fronts for minimum sidewall squirming. I I usually run 25 psi in my fronts and experience no squirming even with the bucket brimming full of damp sand like I did yesterday.
If I were experiencing squirming I'd up the pressure to max and possibly go above depending on lots of variables on going above and how much for how much to be gained.
As long as the tire had the plies and vulcanization to tolerate squirming under load I would do it and not expect any problems. I have run FELS on 40 hp tractors using my radial 4 ply, 235x16 truck take-offs at 35 psig and experience radial squirming but never had a tire problem. Bias plies, especially high ply rating with higher pressures do a super job of reducing/preventing squirming.
The tractor tolerance of squirming I thing would be of no concern considering the relationship of steel/cast iron to rubber....aka stress on the tractor components vs sidewall of the tire......would I do it???? As stated, I've done it.
If I were experiencing squirming I'd up the pressure to max and possibly go above depending on lots of variables on going above and how much for how much to be gained.
As long as the tire had the plies and vulcanization to tolerate squirming under load I would do it and not expect any problems. I have run FELS on 40 hp tractors using my radial 4 ply, 235x16 truck take-offs at 35 psig and experience radial squirming but never had a tire problem. Bias plies, especially high ply rating with higher pressures do a super job of reducing/preventing squirming.
The tractor tolerance of squirming I thing would be of no concern considering the relationship of steel/cast iron to rubber....aka stress on the tractor components vs sidewall of the tire......would I do it???? As stated, I've done it.
TMGT
Elite Member
Check with the tire manufactuere for what the recommended wheel sizes are, you might be able to still use your original wheel if it's on the upper end limit for the 8.5/ lower limit for the 10.5.
Keep the offset the same and the added 1in or less of width wont be an issue.
I went from 8.5 to 9.5 on the front turf tires for my B and it helped quite a bit with flotation, I was able to use the same wheels.
Keep the offset the same and the added 1in or less of width wont be an issue.
I went from 8.5 to 9.5 on the front turf tires for my B and it helped quite a bit with flotation, I was able to use the same wheels.
Dan Lamb
Silver Member
Good evening Texasmark , I have a 2400h with the stock R4 tires , would IT be possible to put a taller tire on the front or would IT foul up the front END 4x4 gearing . Thanks ,Dan
LS Tractor Owner
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You cannot increase the height of the front without increasing the same height in the rear. A 1/2" may not matter, but anything greater would mess up the drive ratios
jeff9366
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Wider front tires may increase tractor turning radius or jam front tire under tractor.
Turn tractor steering wheel to its stop in one direction, then the other, observing how much space there is between current front tires and tractor contact.
Turn tractor steering wheel to its stop in one direction, then the other, observing how much space there is between current front tires and tractor contact.
Texasmark
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Catching this late, agree with others, don't do it. You can determine your ratio by marking front and rear and rolling straight away having the rear make one complete revolution while counting the front's number of full and partial revs. Then measure the circumference around the outer diameter of the tires.
Let's say the ratio is 4:1 revs and the tire circumference ratio is 4:1....your gearing would then be 1:1. If the ratio comes out 4-8 the ratio is 2:1 with the fronts being the higher number and so forth.
With that info you can compare the circumference of your new tire and get a percentage of change. I would expect a couple of percent wouldn't matter. If you run on soft surfaces, dirt, grass, gravel, mud, it really doesn't make much difference as the slip would be absorbed in the movable terrain.
The problem comes up in hard turns and on hard surfaces where one tire can't slip so it drags or pushes and wears the rubber off and puts strain on the gear train.
The above is my opinion based on how it appears to me currently. I have 2 4wd tractors and notice slight interactions, with factory tires, when on hard surfaces and in hard turns on both hard and soft surfaces....so it comes from the factory with some difference already. If you know your ratio changing your tire circumference in the right direction would help eliminate what comes from the factory.....as long as you didn't pass zero and go out the other side farther than you are now.