Did that, that's the seal I replaced. Got it put back together (I think), just cant get the two halves of the tractor to mate. Someone else thought the clutch plate may be out of alignment. I think since I got it within 1/2" of bolting together the spindle is entering the hole.Tomorrow should be less than 100 degrees so I'll be able to spend more time on it.
TO-20 rejoining problem
- Thread starter rip5896
- Start date
DJ54
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Glad it worked for you..!! Now hope the clutch center wasn't bent..
Soundguy
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same here. it's obvious the disc wasn't in alignment...
Hey, alll -- First post!
Let me start by thanking all of you. I lurk in these forums to learn how to maintain my hardware and learn how it operates. I wouldn't learn if all of you didn't post. So I say a heartfelt thank you to all those through the years who have helped me repair my tractor.
My Fergie to20 got swamped when the floods went roaring through South west Wisconsin last November. THe damage was too bad to the out building and their contents. The barn-style shed (and all we had in it)had a water line of 3 or 4 feet. All the power tools were shot but the biggest problem was the damage to the Fergie To20.
The electrics needed to be cleaned or replaced and once it fired up it wouldn't go into gear. I split the tractor, noticed nothing was really wrong with the clutch, cleaned everything, and began reassembly (which is why I was surfing this board.
After much hand wringing and wailing and gnashing of teeth, we got down to it. The bottle jack holding up the front end had allowed the engine to flop to one side. I didn't like that very much. But we hit on a solution that worked: we used longer bolts from the running boards to pass through the bell housing and bite into the threads of the matching holes in the edge of the transmission case. It had the effect of aligning the engine to the transmission. After carefully tightening down the bolts around the perimeter of the bell housing, we allowed the engine and the drive shaft to mate perfectly. There was a shudder and a small bang and we were there.
So if anyone wants to try this at home:
take the cover off the clutch box
get your halves of the tractor within 3 inches
eyeball te hights of the cases. Where will the pin on the motor go?
And when your bolts are installed, you should have 2" or so sitcking out of the motor. This is what the motor will glide on as it gets mated to the transmission.
Gently tighten down the bolts and sooner or later you will hear a bang. That means the splines are almost there.
Raise the jack under the center of the tractor. The gap between the motor and trans should be identical. Insert the remainder of the bolts.
You're there!
Let me start by thanking all of you. I lurk in these forums to learn how to maintain my hardware and learn how it operates. I wouldn't learn if all of you didn't post. So I say a heartfelt thank you to all those through the years who have helped me repair my tractor.
My Fergie to20 got swamped when the floods went roaring through South west Wisconsin last November. THe damage was too bad to the out building and their contents. The barn-style shed (and all we had in it)had a water line of 3 or 4 feet. All the power tools were shot but the biggest problem was the damage to the Fergie To20.
The electrics needed to be cleaned or replaced and once it fired up it wouldn't go into gear. I split the tractor, noticed nothing was really wrong with the clutch, cleaned everything, and began reassembly (which is why I was surfing this board.
After much hand wringing and wailing and gnashing of teeth, we got down to it. The bottle jack holding up the front end had allowed the engine to flop to one side. I didn't like that very much. But we hit on a solution that worked: we used longer bolts from the running boards to pass through the bell housing and bite into the threads of the matching holes in the edge of the transmission case. It had the effect of aligning the engine to the transmission. After carefully tightening down the bolts around the perimeter of the bell housing, we allowed the engine and the drive shaft to mate perfectly. There was a shudder and a small bang and we were there.
So if anyone wants to try this at home:
take the cover off the clutch box
get your halves of the tractor within 3 inches
eyeball te hights of the cases. Where will the pin on the motor go?
And when your bolts are installed, you should have 2" or so sitcking out of the motor. This is what the motor will glide on as it gets mated to the transmission.
Gently tighten down the bolts and sooner or later you will hear a bang. That means the splines are almost there.
Raise the jack under the center of the tractor. The gap between the motor and trans should be identical. Insert the remainder of the bolts.
You're there!
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Be VERY VERY carefull pulling a tractor together with bolts.
more than a few clutches have been ruined by this!!
more than a few clutches have been ruined by this!!
CincyFlyer
Veteran Member
Yeah, I'm leery of any procedure that requires you to wait for the "bang"! Certainly, the splines must align.
hawkeye08
Elite Member
Helped a friend with his Ford pickup in my driveway 35 years ago... he was sure the torque converter flat was lined up properly in the transmission. Yep, you guessed it, it was not. The bang when it went together was the pump in front exploding. Another friend did a quicky rebuild on the transmission for him... my wife was not happy about the oil spots and length of time her driveway was blocked... lesson learned, pulling together with bolts for parts that should mate does not produce any bang.
banjodunn
Veteran Member
Your right about that but not only clutches I have seen more than one input shaft pushed back into the front of the trans and a few cracked housings
Jon
Soundguy
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yup.. seen that too!