To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine?

[firefighter9208]

I don't know if this engine has cam bearings or not, but do know if you have a block vatted you have to replace the cam bearings because it ruins them. They don't charge but a few dollars for installation at the machine shop, because they have to do this on all blocks that are vatted. At least that's the way it's been on every engine I've ever built.

Chris

 

[TYMinColton]

A couple of pics of the main and rod bearings. I don't have any idea who manufactured these (part number FM183X CP QT 010?), and didn't get any hits on the web, but it does look as though both the main and rod bearings are 0.01 "Under/over-sized". Can anyone confirm this?

Backside of front main bearing shell:

Inner surfaces of both bearing shells:

Backside of Rod bearing shell:

 

[AntrimMan]

Fm = federal mogul
010 US = .010 Under size from standard.
The overlay looks good to me. If they are all this good I would reuse them, just as long as you haven't mixed them up and the crank is good.

All the Best

 

[john_bud]

Good to go. Dip them in oil and replace.

jb

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. doesn't look like the first coat is worn thru yet.

soundguy

 

[RobJ]

Yeah not bad. Try to keep them matched up if you can, top, bottom, etc. If they get mixed up don't fret. Each shell half is exactly the same. They just grab 2 and put them in a new box. Those look to have little wear.

 

[TYMinColton]

Actually I kept each pair of shells separated and organized. I can easily identify the top vs bottom shell for reassembly. To answer another question, the journals also look as good or better than the bearings, so I think I'm just going to give everything the once over, soak everything in oil, insert new seals, and reassemble. In contrast, the Rod bearings do show a little more wear than the main set, so it seems like a good investment to just pick up a new set.
Thanks!
Pete

 

[Soundguy]

Remember to use assembly lube.. I agree.. do the rods if they show wear.. the others look practically new though..

soundguy

 

[Egon]

The pictures of the rod shells seem to bother me for some reason. Perhaps a picture with better light would show things better.

From memories of long ago the wear pattern and striations on the pictured rod shells bother me. Also the fact that they are all ready undersized indicates that some wear has occurred in the past. However, my knowledge is not sufficient to say weather all is good or not.

Chances are there are methods and equipment that can be used to measure and determine the suitability of the present gear for rebuild that would be much more accurate than an eyeball of a picture!

 

[longtrman]

Any good suggestions for internet sites that sell reasonably priced engine parts for a 172 ci diesel engine?

I've checked out Phil's Tractor & Supply and Walt's tractors and I can pick up most of my shopping list, is there somewhere else you guys trust that I should check out??

My Shopping list:
1. Complete engine gasket set.
2. 0.02 sized piston - complete ring set
3. Main bearings (probably 0.001 undersized)
4. Rod Bearings (probably 0.001 undersized)

Thanks
Pete

PS Might be a few weeks. My wife side-swiped a (stationary) telephone pole last weekend and we have a $500 deductible. . . ugh.

Tym , I have a 172-6008D gasket set that has been on the shelf for several years ($30.00), .010 rod insert set ($25.28) .010 main bearing insert set ($41.34). All are Tisco. McCord made the head gasket and Clevite made some of the bearings. You would have to pay UPS freight charges and UPS C.O.D charge in addition if that would help you any.
When you go back together with this engine be sure to put the rod caps on the rods with both tangs together. If you put the cap on backwards it will lock up the engine. I have already found two ford 172 engines that the factory had made the rods wrong. I believe that the I&T manual will tell you to go by either the identifiaction numbers stamped into the rod and cap or the words on the cap but instead look for the tangs on the inserts and put them together. Also if you use the seal sticks that seal the side of the rear main bearing cap install them as stated in I&T. Most of us no longer use the factory seal sticks at all. We use heavy cotton packing string driven tightly into the hole with a slender punch until the hole is full of packed string. Be sure to stagger the ring end gaps. The rings will rotate on the pistons somewhat but start with them staggered. I would like to see you have the crank tested (Magna fluxed or dye tested). When I was young I carried a crank into the engine shop to be tested. The tester picked up the shaft, set it down on the rear end of the shaft on a concrete floor and pronounced it bad. When I insisted he show me, Magna flux showed a crack I couldn't see. He could hear that the shaft didn't ring when it hit the floor.
Longtrman