Rotary Cutter To top link or not to top link, that is my question... (Kinda...)

[texasjohn]

David, Wow...you have your hands full at the moment...my condolences...
If you have a hydraulic cylinder not in use...try attaching it and see how it works length wise....That's all I have although I did have to craft some extensions to make it sufficiently long to meet my needs.
Next idea...what about putting a support under the rear wheel. this should allow you to back tractor up and first hook up the top link, then adjust lower links as appropriate.
All the best...

 

[Ken45101]

No rigid top link is a safety thing. I know that the chances are slim-none, but it has happened to someone before, without the rigid top link, it is possible that the cutter can stand straight up and all kinds of bad things can happen if that were to happen.

I always have a top link on but that hasn't stopped the cutter from standing up vertical when the front edge caught on an old stump. (My Woods cutter has top linkage which moves back and forth maybe 2 feet.)

 

[jeff9366]

I always have a top link on but that hasn't stopped the cutter from standing up vertical when the front edge caught on an old stump. (My Woods cutter has top linkage which moves back and forth maybe 2 feet.)

But the Top Link did prevent the R/C from flipping over onto the operator's station, potentially and historically a lethal scenario.

 

[radioman]

I know there are standards for 3 points geometry, but I can tell you this -- they are not really all the same for the bottom horizontal part of the implement use is not always the same so the top link always has to be adjusted. My tiller needs to be tipped back more then the carryall when on my 3 pt. like mikeemo said - having more then one toplink and leaving it on the implement is the ideal way for setting it and forgetting it unless you have a quick hitch.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Guys,

This is my how my setup looks right now. I tried to drop it ahead of a storm last week and it was tight as a tick and I did not have the tool to loosen the top link so I just parked it.

Does this look right? is this how I should run it?

One pic is down all the way, the other is up all the way.

It looks wrong to me.

Very interested in your thoughts and advice.

Be well,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Here is a picture from when I got the tractor brand new...

David

 

[TripleR]

It's too low in the front, the front should be about an inch lower than the back, looks like you need to loosen the top link and raise your 3PH to get the right angle. If you want to mow that low, you can adjust your tail wheel and lengthen the top link.

 

[texasjohn]

I think that I would disconnect the cutter and lift it with the FEL (chains)....get some boards of different thicknesses and put them on the ground and position the cutter on the boards for the correct angle/height. Now, adjust tail wheel for that height and back tractor up and see where 3 point hitch best attaches. Looks to me like you are using the highest attachment for the lower arms and a pin thru the top attachment holes. Looks to me like there are two sets of holes below your current attachment point...maybe the geometry would be better if you used the middle or lower hole. I don't have a woods so don't exactly know where the attachment points are. Also, remember that there are adjustment points on the tractor for the height of the lift arms. I would do all this, then as a final step adjust the top link to just fit the cutter in this desired cutting position.

 

[newbury]

I know there are standards for 3 points geometry, but I can tell you this -- they are not really all the same for the bottom horizontal part of the implement use is not always the same so the top link always has to be adjusted. My tiller needs to be tipped back more then the carryall when on my 3 pt. like mikeemo said - having more then one toplink and leaving it on the implement is the ideal way for setting it and forgetting it unless you have a quick hitch.

Or IF you possessed a ruler and measured the amount of thread showing, plus made sure you recorded the settings of your 3pt equipment (what hole etc.) so you could duplicate the settings.

Guys,

This is my how my setup looks right now. I tried to drop it ahead of a storm last week and it was tight as a tick and I did not have the tool to loosen the top link so I just parked it.

Does this look right? is this how I should run it?

One pic is down all the way, the other is up all the way.

It looks wrong to me.

Very interested in your thoughts and advice.

Be well,
David

Pics of the actual 3 point may help.

It's too low in the front, the front should be about an inch lower than the back, looks like you need to loosen the top link and raise your 3PH to get the right angle. If you want to mow that low, you can adjust your tail wheel and lengthen the top link.

I put the one I borrowed on a 4x4 in the rear and a 2x4 in the front.
And when I set my plow up I drove the tractor onto a 4x4 to get the right tilt.

 

[TripleR]

I put the one I borrowed on a 4x4 in the rear and a 2x4 in the front.
And when I set my plow up I drove the tractor onto a 4x4 to get the right tilt.

Whatever works, beats my "system", I've been using these things for over fifty years and usually just eyeball them until I get "close enough".