Top and Tilt Regrets?

[txdon]

My only regret is never experiencing working a box blade without T&T. Now when TBNers ask I cannot compare it to a tractor without T&T. But considering the number of times I use it in an hour and each of those times I would have had to get off the tractor for a manual adjustment .... NO REGRETS!
The T&T does drift during mowing and I have to adjust them in about an inch every hour. I just eyeball it and hydraulically adjust it from the seat. However, it sure makes connecting the mower easy and I think I will continue to use them for mowing.

 

[Glenn9643]

I’m in the same boat as hayden “I find the top link useful always, and the side link very useful in some cases, neutral in some, and actually detrimental in some. I've now taken to only putting the side link on when needed, which is for grading. The problem is that the slide link cylinder drifts position, so an implement that should be level like a mower, chipper, winch, etc. (basically everything except a grader blade or box blade) you need to constantly readjust, so I just put the fixed link back in except for grading”.
And just as you have been putting off the T&T purchase I’ve put off the double piloted lock valve. I did order one but after several days was informed that they couldn’t find it anywhere and was offered another much more expensive one that I declined. Your post is something of a coincidence as I was checking back earlier today and found this lock valve. I almost sent you the info then. Have you decided what you’re going to do about the lock valves?

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What did the $900 include? Can you get all that is needed (given that you have rear outlets) from Integration Engineering? What little I could determine from their web page, one only needs the dual rear outlets. Wondering what their complete unit price is, including both cylinders and their control valve arrangement. )</font>

I built mine using readily available componenets from many suppliers. Some stuff was ordered thru a friend who owns a hydraulic repair business and he charged me his cost. Prices are approximate and are as best as I can remember.

3-spool Prince SV valve setup complete w/shipping $220
3 hoses, 3 sets work port disconnects, all fittings $150
Kubota hydraulic outlet block $69
CCM top link w/shipping $170
1/4" hoses for top link $28

Total of $637 for 3 spools + top link.

TCC tilt link from Integration Engineering w/shipping $278
1/4" hoses for tilt link $28

That makes a complete setup only $943. Your prices may vary. I know the complete TCC setup goes for around $1250 without the 3rd spool. I figured I did ok and am a little more flexible.

Integration Engineering will sell their setup on a piece by piece basis. Contact them for individual component pricing.

See this thread for a complete description. Rear remotes and TnT

 

[MadDog]

Bill: I don't think you'll regret getting it. I use my TCC with all 3ph attachments, even where there is no need to adjust the attachment's tilt; it just makes both connecting and removing attachments a whole lot easier as you only have to position the tractor precisely for the non-adjusting lower arm.

Once you have that lift arm connected (assuming that the tractor is roughly centered to the hitch and perpendicular to the pins) you can make the adjustments to the other lift arm pin and toplink using the TCC hydraulics. Same goes for relieving prerssure on the pins when disconnecting.

BTW, I haven't had much of an issue with "drift." For those who do, I suggest checking the hydraulic connections for any leaks. Even if you do, the compensating adjustments can be made from your seat, and on the fly, and are so simple that I don't think I'd be concerned.

 

[ronjhall]

Henro ...aka Bill... near Pgh, PA

One of the most interesting projects that I have done on my tractor. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

By the time you finish you will know more about tractor hydraulics, hose, hose fittings, pipe fittings, cylinders, cylinder ends, QD's and valves than you thought you would ever need to know owning a CUT. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I would do it again. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I only use T n T on the box blade and back blade.

Since I added gage wheels to the rake. I don't waste time installing the cylinders. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[_RaT_]

Let's see, a toothbar or TnT, hmmmm, well, I'd rather have ViseGrips for a steering wheel then loose my TnT. Toothbar, I could easily do without compared to TnT. No comparison. The way I see it Bill is if you have to ask this question then A: you've never used it or B: you don't know how to use it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[RobertN]

The only thing I regret is not doing it sooner, like the day I bought the tractor. I would not get another tractor without it(CUT, or UT...)

Heck, you can even get it for Bobcat's /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue">There, did that kick you? </font>

RRfarm, that did not hurt at all...pretty funny! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

<font color="blue"> Henro, sit down, have a couple of cold Iron Cities </font>

MadRef, sorry but the only time I have those is when I am someone else's home...I like beer with more taste... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I still plan on PMing you with a couple questions... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif ...for not doing it yet...

MikePa, I was thinking of doing that but realize that it is not my nature to take small steps. Generally I am slow to start then go all out...

Hayden, I think the drift/leakdown problem is solved with the application of pilot operated check valves...anyway I hope so as I plan on using them...in one fashion or another...

Glen9643, I saw that pilot operated check valve at surplus center as well and was seriously considering it. I am thinking I may go with a prince valve that has pilot operated checks built in...but if not that parker valve looks pretty nice.

MadDog, I am thinking of using two tilt cylinders, operated by independent control valves, so I guess that would even be better...the thought being that when both 4" stroke cylinders are pulled fully in the 3PH will be at about the normal mid point...also plan on leaving the cylinders on the tractor all the time...

RonJHall...I also think this is an iteresting project and look forward to getting my butt in gear...

Rat...yes I have used it...but the IT is my arm and hand...look forward to have the hydraulics do the work... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

And to everyone else...who was more telling me how good it is rather than asking for a response...thanks for the input. I hope to start another thread [yes ANOTHER] sharing what I learned as I do it. I mean....it can be confusing when you don't know nothin'... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif...what fitting mates with what and so on. I read a lot of the past threads but still did not understand the difference between NPTF and Swivel (still can't spell it for certain... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif) O Ring boss and JIC and so on. Now I do know a little more and would like to share that with others...who might be in the same position in the future. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Inspector507]

I too have no connection to Integration Engineering, but I will tell you I have seen all the components to get the TCC, and I'm impressed. I do have the top link and I love it. If you have ONE set of rear remotes, then gettting the TCC may involve the whole package which includes the joystick control and mounts for it. If you have TWO sets of remotes, you could get by without the joystick. That reduces the price. You already 2 levers to control 2 cylinders.

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> We all have ways to spend dollars for pleasure. </font>
Bill.
That's all this project is,...spending dollars for pleasure. Sometimes it's hard to look a new project in the face and get going on it. If you've got rear remotes and all the parts, this is a job you could tackle in a day or two. Get going!

Personally, I couldn't see the great utility in side tilt. So, my TnT is just a T (hyd. toplink). It makes Boxblading and BrushHogging a completely different experience. Very much worth it!

OkieG