torque wrench recommendations please

[whistlepig]

I have one of these and it works very well.

http://www.skhandtool.com/products/torque-wrenches.aspx

 

[fordoutback]

I've got a torque wrench and hardly ever use it. My bad. It's a no name manual and i just don't trust it. Why I don't know...
Would an inexpensive HF digital gauge be more accurate than a more expensive manual "clicker"?
is a clicker style adequately accurate?

Say for a hundred bucks, which I don't think is unreasonable for a precision tool, that would go up to say 200 pounds,
what do you all recommend? I know the pro models are way more expensive than this, but can one get good precision for installing
car/truck wheel lugs, mower blade nuts, etc.? Not little stuff but not working on a nuclear plant either.

I have had an S-K clicker wrench for a while now. I think it goes for $100-$125 still today. I bought it at my local Car Quest dealer. You might have some around you in PA. I have had this wrench recalibrated twice through the years when dropped and they said there were no issues. I think the warranty is one year including calibration. Myself, I wouldnt trust a Craftsman one anymore. My son bought one and it just doesnt feel right.(read the reviews and you will understand) Any torque wrench will work for every day AVERAGE jobs, but for anything else I like the S-K. It's rated from 20 to 150 ft lbs and you are supposed to turn it back down to the lowest setting after use.

 

[fordoutback]

You must have posted this while I was writing mine, lol Referring to the post from whistlepig

 

[whistlepig]

There was another thread on torque wrenches not too long ago. SK torque wrenches had some good recommendations by other TBN members. All my socket sets are SK. They make an excellent tool. I prefer SK over anything else.

 

[daugen]

this is really helpful, thank you guys. If I can find a good SK clicker for 125 bucks, that sounds like a good solution. SK has always set minimum quality standards, and certainly have raised their prices to meet them.
But I'm looking for a lifetime tool (not hard to do when you're 63...)

It would be nice if the place selling them also provided a calibration service. I think our local Napa might have this tool, but geez, I always feel like I'm getting hosed when I go in there, since I don't have a commercial discount.

 

[3930dave]

I have both types, and can test my clickers against my split beam torque wrench pretty easily. I just find the right socket to join the two and then check a few settings on the clicker against the value indicated on the split beam. Split beams are simpler, as has been pointed out, and retain their calibration essentially indefinitely.

Convenience is the main advantages of the clicker type. The convenient tool is the one you will use. Sometimes the torque setting is really important, and the bolt or nut is in a hard-to-access spot, like the drain bolt in an oil pan. Who wants to read a scale 2" from one's nose while laying under a tractor? :smiley_aafz: Before I got the clicker I would mark the a spot on the back side of the split beam's scale so I could read it upside down, but that didn't always make it visible.

As for digital torque wrenches, unless they beep they have the same problem as the much cheaper split beam wrenches. Plus, their batteries might fail, and just because they show lots of significant digits doesn't mean they are accurate.

Hi MV - there might be regional differences in the terminology, but I think you are describing the basic defecting-pointer-over-a-numbered-scale-plate type ($15 or so) when you say split-beam - I'm going on your description of marking the back of the scale.

Just fyi, not trying to nitpick...... It took me a bit of research to track down a real split beam - oversimplifying a bit, you essentially have 2 torsion bars, enclosed in the handle of the wrench. It does click when it hits your preset limit, but there is no spring to worry about. Pricing is $100+ typically.

(Went looking for an exploded diagram of a split-beam design - I've seen one, but just can't seem to pull it up right now).

I take good care of my tools, and rarely lend 'em, but liked the rugged design of the split-beam.

I've always heard good things about SK, that should be a nice one if that is what you pick up Daugen.

Rgds, D.

 

[94BULLITT]

For most applications a click type torque wrench is best because it is fast and easy to use. I saw a harbor freight tested on youtube against a snap on and it was off 10% which is not acceptable for critical fasteners. I would look for a good used snap on and test it against a known to be accurate torque wrench. You could pick up a used 1/2" snap on for around a $100.

 

[3930dave]

For most applications a click type torque wrench is best because it is fast and easy to use. I saw a harbor freight tested on youtube against a snap on and it was off 10% which is not acceptable for critical fasteners. I would look for a good used snap on and test it against a known to be accurate torque wrench. You could pick up a used 1/2" snap on for around a $100.

Precision Instruments was the OEM for SnapOn for a very long time.

Rgds, D.

 

[94BULLITT]

Precision Instruments was the OEM for SnapOn for a very long time.

Rgds, D.

I think now it is CDI, which I think Snap On owns.

 

[3930dave]

I think now it is CDI, which I think Snap On owns.

Could be. In the industry I know, most companies spend a lot of time trying to bankrupt their suppliers, so I'm not surprised when a quality supplier stops doing business with a major customer.

Just a guess on my part, but often is the case.

Rgds, D.