3-Point Hitch Tractor/Implement PTO Connection ~ Lubes and Spline Wear Factors

[jeff9366]

I have owned three Rotary Cutters operated behind two different Kubotas.

Standard grade King Kutter 48" R/C, L-48-40-P (428 pounds) behind Kubota B3300 SU. Purchased used.

Land Pride 60" R/C, RCF 2060 (620 pounds) behind Kubota L3560. Purchased new.

Land Pride 60" R/C RCR 2660 (1,002 pounds) behind Kubota L3560. Purchased new.


The well worn, relatively light King Kutter drive shaft was usually fairly easy to connect to the tractor. I lubed the PTO fittings with lithium grease, applied thinly then lightly wiped off with a rag.

The two heavier, wider, Land Pride R/Cs, purchased new, were more difficult to connect. I experimented with several different lubes on the PTO fittings, first a very light coat of lithium grease, then WD-40, then Fluid Film, then three brands of "dry lubricant" and now Blaster (brand) garage door lube, which works best for me.

I have a standard mounting technique. I make the single Top Link connection first. Then I make the two Lower Link connections, adjusting the Top Link if necessary to assist aligning the Lower Link bullseyes and the implement draft pins. Then I raise the R/C until the PTO drive shaft is level with the tractor splines, then simultaneously pull back on the lock collar while sliding the shaft on until connection "clicks".

Lube seems a critical factor to me. Following is my experience in warm Florida. Your experience may differ.

1) Lithium Grease is too thick. Unless wiped off after application, tends to collect at front of shaft collar, preventing final 1/8" of travel needed to lock the shaft to the tractor splines. Attracts and holds dirt and dust, even when wiped off with a rag, so grease coat is very thin.

2) WD-40 works pretty fair making connection but burns off during R/C use, making removal of dry PTO shaft difficult while connection is hot. I never had the patience to let connection cool.

3) Fluid Film worked better but held dirt and dust a little. Best applied thinly.

3) Dry lubes consistently better. I experimented with wax based bicycle chain lube, Home Depot "HDX" brand spray dry lube and Blaster brand spray Dry Lube. All about equal. No dirt retention.

4) One day I was out of spray dry lube and decided to try Blaster brand Garage Door Lube which was on my bench. I like this best. Can says: "64742-48-9 Hydrocarbon Solvent, 68849-42-3 Anti-Wear Additive". This product seems to leave a tiny amount more lube residue on the connection, providing best-so-far slip lubricity.

The wild card is wear, especially wear in the female PTO fitting. After considerable use does this female fitting wear in and make PTO connection easier? I do not know.

I keep a rubber cap over tractor PTO splines when implement not connected, to guard against sap, dirt and dust accumulation.


I value other's experience which will often vary from mine.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I have never really had an issue with any of that, typically I am more worried about if the grease inside the crosses have grease in them. I have had those come apart, and that makes for a bad/expensive day.

 

[mcfarmall]

I slop some grease (3% Moly any brand) into the female spline and slide it on the tractor shaft...cutter is a 40 year old King Kutter. All original...drive line, gearbox, u-joints, everything. Practically connects itself.

On the other hand, my FIL's Woods tiller on the JD 3038E is another story. You have to pull back on a locking ring while pushing the knuckle onto the tractor shaft which is difficult but that debate has already been done on the forum.

So having been a Machine Repair Journeyman for 30 years the answer is yes, wear has occurred on the tractor shaft and the driven spline over a period of years which makes for easier coupling. The less use on the implement, the more you will struggle connecting it over its life span.

 

[seville009]

i spray Wd40 on everything - connection points and pto - when i hook it up. WD40 is thin enough that it generally won’t gunk up over time.

 

[nyone]

Grease can and will harden up in time. Clean all that crap off.

 

[oosik]

My only PTO implement - Wallenstein BX62S chipper. 95% of its use is in the late spring. I lube it with the same grease as the tractor. Nasty, black moly grease. I go thru the same connection procedure as jeff9366. I do have a tool - can't think of its name right now - that helps with lower arm connection, if necessary. Crescent wrench on one end - long, slender pointed on the other end. Brings things into final alignment easily.

I'm always wiping excess grease off the male PTO splines. I have an estimated 350 hours on the Wallenstein. Never noticed any abnormal wear on an parts of the PTO.

Regarding ease or not, of connection. I find its a matter of - -- my frame of mind at the time, how well have I aligned the tractor/chipper, how much grease do I have on my gloved hands. As we all know - some days it's a breeze - some days it can be a real *****.

I've never tried "lighter" types of grease. Its always been the heavy, thick, snotty stuff. I know where I put it and I know it will stay there.

The tractor output PTO shaft is always capped unless in use.

I DO appreciate jeff9366 experimentation results. If there is a better way - I'm all for it.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

i spray Wd40 on everything - connection points and pto - when i hook it up. WD40 is thin enough that it generally won’t gunk up over time.

I'm with you, it's my much preferred method too...

SR

 

[RalphVa]

That door lube thing sounds intriguing.

I've always used white lithium grease after wiping the shaft clean. Then apply a little bit of fluid film right on the ends of both the male and female parts.

Of course, using a push button PTO connector is a must. All those pull-back collar ones should be added to the metal recycle pile.

Ralph

 

[Roadworthy]

If you wish to prevent grease build up consider purchasing molybdenum disulfide powder or better yet lithium disulfide powder. You can burnish it into the dry metal making it very slick. Generally grease contains very little molybdenum disulfide - on the order of ten percent or less.