Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas

   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas #21  
The spacing for the purlins is based on the metal material that you use. If you use a thicker metal, you can space your purlins out further. I bought my metal roof from Muellers, who advises 4ft centers on the purlins. I forget the thickness of the metal off hand. Sorry.

Here's a picture of my roof with my wife on it when we were installing it. You can see the spacings in the picture and also get an idea of how the trusses and rafters tie in together.

Eddie
 

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   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas #22  
EddieWalker said:
The spacing for the purlins is based on the metal material that you use. If you use a thicker metal, you can space your purlins out further. I bought my metal roof from Muellers, who advises 4ft centers on the purlins. I forget the thickness of the metal off hand. Sorry.

Here's a picture of my roof with my wife on it when we were installing it. You can see the spacings in the picture and also get an idea of how the trusses and rafters tie in together.

Eddie

Isn't not worrying about a snow load wonderful!! A few folks around our area have put up metal roofs, seems the in thing to do now is go ahead and deck the whole roof with the radiant ply, then put the metal roof on. Another layer if insulation. FYI, I would not do this on a barn.
 
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#23  
RobJ said:
Isn't not worrying about a snow load wonderful!! A few folks around our area have put up metal roofs, seems the in thing to do now is go ahead and deck the whole roof with the radiant ply, then put the metal roof on. Another layer if insulation. FYI, I would not do this on a barn.

If you build the roof with OSB/PLY decking, lay felt, then install metal roof you accomplish two important things.
1) deaden the dreaded rain on a tin roof sound
2) keep the metal roof from condensating in the building

Most house builders are more comfortable building in a "conventional" method, then choosing the style of roofing (shingles, metal, tile...).
 
   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas #24  
as just mentioned, condensation on the underside of the metal will be a problem without insulation. we ended up stapling black plastic "under" our lean-to over where the cars are parked to avoid water drippage.

no snow, but probably frost, right? don't forget to get that foundation or footings for your slab below the frostline for your area. up here in kansas, all slab on grade settles unevenly. with large oak tree roots under there? defintely going to be a problem without a good foundation.

ditch the trees. i hate to say it, but trees close to a building a never good. for shade, you want deciduous trees on the south and west with tap root based root systems, not spreading surface roots. for windbreak, evergreens on the north and west. ever cleaned leaves out of your gutters? oak leaves are large enough they really clog things up. plus the root problem plus the falling branch problem. lightning? just not worth it.

don't forget if you go with metal roofing, the fasteners go on top of the ridges, not in the valleys! valley fastening leaks. ridge tops do not.

amp
 
   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas
  • Thread Starter
#25  
RobJ said:
Isn't not worrying about a snow load wonderful!! A few folks around our area have put up metal roofs, seems the in thing to do now is go ahead and deck the whole roof with the radiant ply, then put the metal roof on. Another layer if insulation. FYI, I would not do this on a barn.

I just calculated the wood cost for my design. Interesting results.

Using 24" O.C. 2x4 trusses with 7/16 OSB decking is about $100 cheaper than 2x6 rafters on 48" centers with 2x4 purlins. :eek:

The decking should provide better tree limb protection than just metal & purlins.:)
 
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#26  
ampsucker said:
don't forget if you go with metal roofing, the fasteners go on top of the ridges, not in the valleys! valley fastening leaks. ridge tops do not.

amp

Maybe Eddie can confirm this, but I thought with R-panel you screw in the "flats", not the ridges?
 
   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas #27  
ampsucker said:
don't forget if you go with metal roofing, the fasteners go on top of the ridges, not in the valleys! valley fastening leaks. ridge tops do not.

The neatest metal roofs have completely hidden fasteners. I have the
Western Metal Standing Seam roof. Clips are screwed to the decking
(or purlins) and the panels snap over the clips. Most of the batten
seam or Ag panel steel roofs have the exposed fasteners you describe.
 
   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas
  • Thread Starter
#28  
dfkrug said:
The neatest metal roofs have completely hidden fasteners. I have the
Western Metal Standing Seam roof. Clips are screwed to the decking
(or purlins) and the panels snap over the clips. Most of the batten
seam or Ag panel steel roofs have the exposed fasteners you describe.

Do you have a picture? I do not believe that I have seen one before?
 
   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas #29  
cdhd2001 said:
I just calculated the wood cost for my design. Interesting results.

Using 24" O.C. 2x4 trusses with 7/16 OSB decking is about $100 cheaper than 2x6 rafters on 48" centers with 2x4 purlins. :eek:

The decking should provide better tree limb protection than just metal & purlins.:)

Yes I've seen the price of sheet goods come down around here...about $5.50 for a sheet of osb the other day. In 2001 when I did my house is was about $9.00. I don't recall the price of the OSB in the garage in 2004. I think the ply adds a little more strenght to the structure to. I stapled my about every 8".
 
   / Tractor Shed - Need Framing Ideas #30  
 
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