Tractor: spray paint or spray booth?

[Builder]

I feel better already.

Happiness is contagious!

 

[tsterkel]

This is both cheap and easy, if time consuming to do yourself.

1. get a QUALITY sanding/filling primer from a auto/paint store.
2. power sand out all the dings
3. spray the filling primer twice, then sand with 320
4. repeat 3 twice, maybe moving to 600 grit
5. when you cannot see/feel imperfections (wear gloves!), then several light coats of the matching paint. My hands down favorite is Van Sykle, lots of solids in that paint.
6. sand with 600 to 800 between next to last and last coat
7. clear coat if you wish.

warning, this will make everything else, including any Japanese or American car look shabby.

Guys,

The previous owner dumped a load of stone backwards on the hood. No dents, just a couple hundred paint chips with little rust spots under each one.

I can sand & spray paint for $15 and a lot of sanding labor, or I can take it to an autobody shop and have it done for $200-$250. I don't have any shop equipment for painting. The hood is kind of the showpiece sheetmetal for the tractor.

What would you do?

 

[ray66v]

If I did it for cost, I could not do it for that price.

Tsterkel, you forgot some sort of etch before primer.

 

[mark777]

If I did it for cost, I could not do it for that price......

Same here!

Using PPG epoxy primer, K36 primer and a Urethane, Poly-urathane or even Acrylic enamel and including the specific hardeners and reducers would put me over $200. in materials alone (and I didn't even mention CC).

You got a hellava deal .

 

[dqdave1]

You made the best choice; will be done right; paint will hold up better than spray cans .

 

[Superduper]

Forget about how it looks, you need the protection. If rust spots and rust holes are not in your future plans, then you should get it fixed and fixed right. The spray can route, clear 2nd coat or not, is NOT equivalent to having it painted by a professional. It's in the quality of the paint.

Most paint jobs today are done using 2 part paints (epoxy) and goes on hard. They are quite expensive because the paint is expensive. If your body shop is going to shoot acrylic enamel, insist on the catalyzed stuff.

I shot the back of my tow truck myself years ago and it wasn't a great job. Had orange peel all over and it was Orange color to boot. Once it was dry, I thought no problem, I'll just sand it flat but it was HARD AS ROCK. Needless to say, I left it alone and the paint was about as durable as powder coating, maybe better. As you know, we throw chains, floor jacks, all kinds of equipment on the bed and it held up well.

You can do it yourself. Bring a sample of your color to the paint shop (the places that sell auto body paint, not Kelly Moore) and they will mix it for you. Ask for Catalyzed Urethane Enamel. Buy and mix hardener into it just prior to painting. Being that it is equipment and not a show car, you can paint it using an el cheapo craftsman or HF brand. For the latter, I might not even bother to clean it afterwards and just toss it. This should result in a much more durable paint job than 100 coats of spray can paint. As for looks, well that depends on your skill level. In the end, it might just be easier to detach the hood and have your body shop do it for $200. Just make sure they use the good stuff. You need it for the durability.

 

[Builder]

Forget about how it looks, you need the protection. If rust spots and rust holes are not in your future plans, then you should get it fixed and fixed right. The spray can route, clear 2nd coat or not, is NOT equivalent to having it painted by a professional. It's in the quality of the paint.

Most paint jobs today are done using 2 part paints (epoxy) and goes on hard. They are quite expensive because the paint is expensive. If your body shop is going to shoot acrylic enamel, insist on the catalyzed stuff.

I shot the back of my tow truck myself years ago and it wasn't a great job. Had orange peel all over and it was Orange color to boot. Once it was dry, I thought no problem, I'll just sand it flat but it was HARD AS ROCK. Needless to say, I left it alone and the paint was about as durable as powder coating, maybe better. As you know, we throw chains, floor jacks, all kinds of equipment on the bed and it held up well.

You can do it yourself. Bring a sample of your color to the paint shop (the places that sell auto body paint, not Kelly Moore) and they will mix it for you. Ask for Catalyzed Urethane Enamel. Buy and mix hardener into it just prior to painting. Being that it is equipment and not a show car, you can paint it using an el cheapo craftsman or HF brand. For the latter, I might not even bother to clean it afterwards and just toss it. This should result in a much more durable paint job than 100 coats of spray can paint. As for looks, well that depends on your skill level. In the end, it might just be easier to detach the hood and have your body shop do it for $200. Just make sure they use the good stuff. You need it for the durability.

That's what I thought, for $175, even if it's just a decent job, I'm doing OK.

 

[john_bud]

Pay a bit more and have a top coat of stone guard or chip guard (some such name) sprayed on top of the color coat. It's a thicker clear coat that is more pliable and able to resist stone chips. Often used behind the wheel wells of trucks.

jb

 

[ray66v]

Pay a bit more and have a top coat of stone guard or chip guard (some such name) sprayed on top of the color coat. It's a thicker clear coat that is more pliable and able to resist stone chips. Often used behind the wheel wells of trucks.

jb

The product the manufacturers are currently using for clear stone gaurd is a vinyl self adhesive material. The material alone for something that large, from 3m, (the best version), would cost more than the $175 he is paying. There is no "spray on" version that works. Proper metal prep, etch, and a high quality urethane epoxy primer and paint in a "wet on wet" application would be the most durable finish for this application.

 

[Builder]

The product the manufacturers are currently using for clear stone gaurd is a vinyl self adhesive material. The material alone for something that large, from 3m, (the best version), would cost more than the $175 he is paying. There is no "spray on" version that works. Proper metal prep, etch, and a high quality urethane epoxy primer and paint in a "wet on wet" application would be the most durable finish for this application.

The hood already has a spot around the lock hasp that has this self adhesive material applied to it so my lock wont scratch the paint.

I guess I'll be losing this feature in the prep phase.