LindenBruce
Gold Member
Cool thanks. So the button is easy to access then? B.
Trading in the LS R4041
- Thread starter TSO
- Start date
GManBart
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 4,967
- Location
- Detroit, Michigan
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
It's hard to say why the 47 engine seems smoother, but harmonics can do weird things, and you also don't have to run it quite as hard to get the same speed, etc, which could make a tiny difference. I've even noticed that mine seems smoother under a good load, like when I'm running my 7.5' finish mower...weird, but it just seems to smooth things out.
I'll have to check the blue and green levers on mine...haven't used them for anything yet, but will be soon.
GManBart
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 4,967
- Location
- Detroit, Michigan
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
Oh, absolutely....it's on the left side of the dash.
Gowfster
Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2005
- Messages
- 46
- Location
- Tioga County, NY
- Tractor
- JD445, Ferris is3200 x2, LS4047, JD 1600 WAM, Kubota RTV
Big day today... I traded my BX-23 TLB in on e R4047. I got some seat time on the LS today and have some observations
+ A new tractor is a wonderful thing
+ a number of nice features:
+ 3pt arms adjustment via pin instead of buckles, and a nice lift arm adjuster
+ backhoe on and off is super easy
+ tilt wheel
+ adjustable seat for weight, height and front/back
+ the skid steer type bucket is really slick, and so easy to swap between forks and bucket... Makes me want to get other attachments
+ runs nice and smooth, had a lot of power driving.. I went up a steep hill with large boulder on the forks, with the backhoe on (the boulder was about 3.5' x 2.5' x 1.8'... And it happily idled up the steep hill.
+ the cruise control: who needs cruise control on a mans tractor? I do now that I've tried it! It was surprising how good it was when coming up the long hill, and long runs across the yard... Just very convenient and made it feel like the gear drives I used to have
- a few things that are less appealing
- I was used to being able to do multiple actions at once with how and loader, but this tractor only does one thing at a time, so you can't feather the curl on the loader when raising or lowering, or similar on backhoe... I will get used to it but liked the smooth operation of others better
- the subframe for the backhoe really reduces the ground clearance a lot
- the backhoe is well aft of the rear wheels, so I found that uneven ground in the woods I did scrape a few times
- the operator station is a bit tight... I had seen similar comments from others but until getting on and off a lot today, I hadn't noticed ... The tilt wheel lever sticks out when you release it, the emergency brake lever sticks up into the foot area. I tended to put the brake on and release the tilt wheel when getting off, so it put both into my egress path.
- I was expecting more oomph from the backhoe. Not that it was bad, but i was just hoping for more. I may try to run some real tests to check the strength. I never heard any hydraulic whine when the hoe wouldn't move something (stump, or boulder). It just kept running as if I wasn't on the controls... I thought that seemed odd
- the bucket teeth are not bolt on, they were swedged on, so didn't look too easy to replace... Might be a new bucket? The teeth did not seem as you as my kubotas bolt on teeth
- I haven't been able to find the switch to turn on the rear work light? Anyone help?
- the backhoe stabilizers are rubber pads which are nice, but I found that it does skid easily on the ground
- i as very used to using the hoe to push the tractor to new positions with my kubota, but found that harder on the LS... I need to play some more to find out why that is
- my biggest problem so far is the height with the ROPS up. Unfortunately, it is about an inch taller than my barn door. I despise having to put the ROPS up and down all the time, and you just know that at some point I will run it right into the door frame when I forget to put it down. I can't believe that they couldn't have made it an inch shorter to fit in an 8' door. The specs say it is a touch less than 8', but the trimmed out door frame loses about an inch or so short also. I don't see any way to lower it.
- I don't understand the backhoe seat... It has a pin that holds it down, but I don't know why you need to pin it, and it looks like it there is an adjustment slide, but the pivot bolt doesn't allow the movement the slide would suggest, so I am at a loss what the design intent of the seat is or how it is supposed to be adjusted.
I also decided I really like pallet forks! Never had them before, and they were great for moving boulders, and I suspect I will come up with a umber of uses
If anyone knows how to turn the work light on, or what the deal is with the hoe seat... Or even any ROPS tricks... Would appreciate it.
+ A new tractor is a wonderful thing
+ a number of nice features:
+ 3pt arms adjustment via pin instead of buckles, and a nice lift arm adjuster
+ backhoe on and off is super easy
+ tilt wheel
+ adjustable seat for weight, height and front/back
+ the skid steer type bucket is really slick, and so easy to swap between forks and bucket... Makes me want to get other attachments
+ runs nice and smooth, had a lot of power driving.. I went up a steep hill with large boulder on the forks, with the backhoe on (the boulder was about 3.5' x 2.5' x 1.8'... And it happily idled up the steep hill.
+ the cruise control: who needs cruise control on a mans tractor? I do now that I've tried it! It was surprising how good it was when coming up the long hill, and long runs across the yard... Just very convenient and made it feel like the gear drives I used to have
- a few things that are less appealing
- I was used to being able to do multiple actions at once with how and loader, but this tractor only does one thing at a time, so you can't feather the curl on the loader when raising or lowering, or similar on backhoe... I will get used to it but liked the smooth operation of others better
- the subframe for the backhoe really reduces the ground clearance a lot
- the backhoe is well aft of the rear wheels, so I found that uneven ground in the woods I did scrape a few times
- the operator station is a bit tight... I had seen similar comments from others but until getting on and off a lot today, I hadn't noticed ... The tilt wheel lever sticks out when you release it, the emergency brake lever sticks up into the foot area. I tended to put the brake on and release the tilt wheel when getting off, so it put both into my egress path.
- I was expecting more oomph from the backhoe. Not that it was bad, but i was just hoping for more. I may try to run some real tests to check the strength. I never heard any hydraulic whine when the hoe wouldn't move something (stump, or boulder). It just kept running as if I wasn't on the controls... I thought that seemed odd
- the bucket teeth are not bolt on, they were swedged on, so didn't look too easy to replace... Might be a new bucket? The teeth did not seem as you as my kubotas bolt on teeth
- I haven't been able to find the switch to turn on the rear work light? Anyone help?
- the backhoe stabilizers are rubber pads which are nice, but I found that it does skid easily on the ground
- i as very used to using the hoe to push the tractor to new positions with my kubota, but found that harder on the LS... I need to play some more to find out why that is
- my biggest problem so far is the height with the ROPS up. Unfortunately, it is about an inch taller than my barn door. I despise having to put the ROPS up and down all the time, and you just know that at some point I will run it right into the door frame when I forget to put it down. I can't believe that they couldn't have made it an inch shorter to fit in an 8' door. The specs say it is a touch less than 8', but the trimmed out door frame loses about an inch or so short also. I don't see any way to lower it.
- I don't understand the backhoe seat... It has a pin that holds it down, but I don't know why you need to pin it, and it looks like it there is an adjustment slide, but the pivot bolt doesn't allow the movement the slide would suggest, so I am at a loss what the design intent of the seat is or how it is supposed to be adjusted.
I also decided I really like pallet forks! Never had them before, and they were great for moving boulders, and I suspect I will come up with a umber of uses
If anyone knows how to turn the work light on, or what the deal is with the hoe seat... Or even any ROPS tricks... Would appreciate it.
GManBart
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 4,967
- Location
- Detroit, Michigan
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
The rear light has a switch on the light itself...without looking at mine, I can't remember exactly where on it, but it's not hidden. You could get someone to cut an inch or two out of the ROPS, then weld, and paint, or check the tire pressure....if the tires are on the high side (common) you might be able to let some air out, and lower it a little.
I think you'll find there is a position where the loader will feather for you....takes some trial and error to find the right spot.
OP
TSO
Elite Member
Yes... The switch is on the back, curved part of the light housing. I think it's black.
I made my own ROPS... Not that hard to do if u can weld.
You'll get better with the loader with more practice. Plus, it breaks in. I have 70+ hours in it now, and I've neatly perfected it. Each loader seems to work differently, so it takes time, especially if you were coming from another tractor.
You can adjust the seat for more room... See my thread "60 second seat fix" in this forum.