Trail cutting process (and toy list!)

   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #1  

jdbower

Platinum Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
784
Location
A Jersey Boy Exiled to MA
Tractor
John Deere 2520
We’ve got some wet-ish woods behind our house and the wife would like to have a 4-6’ wide and roughly 1/2 mile long winding trail cut through them for walking – probably to discuss feelings or something but I don’t mind since I’ve got headphones. Tree spacing won’t be an issue since I'd prefer to clear around them rather than cut them down but I will have to remove the undergrowth which mostly consists of thorny brambles. This is more of a long-term project than a job that needs to be done quickly, so I don’t mind extra seat time if it means getting some simpler but more generally useful tools and making multiple passes. The primary workhorse (besides me) is a John Deere 2520 with R4 tires, 4WD, 20HP at the PTO and 25HP at the wheels.

I’m thinking that the first step will involve use of either a rotary cutter on my 2520 or a standalone cutter like a DR walk-behind mower – benefit of the latter being maneuverability but at the expense of yet another gas tank to feed and engine to maintain. As of now I’m leaning towards a 4’ or 5’ rotary cutter which should match the roughly 4’ wheel stance of the 2520 (with a 4’ I’ll probably make a second pass to try to widen the path a bit). During the cutting I’ll be using the loader to down any saplings in the way and to find rocks, I’ll probably be making a pass or two with the loader for this purpose and to scope things out before attaching the cutter.

After that I was planning on pulling a box blade to try to level things out, this will likely be a few weeks (and possibly a few cuts) after the initial clearing to let the roots die off a bit. I’ll probably need plenty of extra fill for some of the low spots during this phase, but that shouldn’t be a problem. If I’m clearing 5’ of bramble I was planning on getting a 4’ blade. Of course, if you guys recommend a slightly wider blade like a 5’ given that a 4’ will barely cover the tractor footprint I’m open to cutting a 6’ swath in multiple passes.

After the box blade, which I assume will be at least an annual event (probably more in the beginning), I was thinking of getting a water-filled tow-behind roller to compress the ground again. This would be the same size as the box blade. I’m assuming that the steel would be preferred to the poly version in general or is there no real performance difference?

Longer term I’ll probably get a spreader to build up the sand content of the soil so it compacts better and helps stave off some growth, but really this is an excuse for a long term project and reason to play with (and acquire!) toys. I probably won’t be starting this project for a while, but I’ve got some more immediate use for a lawn roller and box blade so I was hoping to ensure that I look at the right sizes. Is this a viable process? Does 4’ sound right to you learned fellows for trail maintenance given a ~5’ cleared area (at the narrowest)? 4’ seems to be the magic number since that’s the 2520’s footprint.

Thanks for reading a lengthy post! :)
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #2  
Sounds like you've got a plan there. I've actually wondered how I would make a "nature trail" if I had the property that would allow it. I used to really enjoy hiking. You've described exactly how I would probably tackle it. I'd probably go with a 4' rotary cutter if I were you. The only advice I could probably give is make sure you plan the course well. You don't want to have to redo a section later. You may even consider an aerial photo to help plan. The only thing I don't quite get is the sand spreader idea. That just doesn't make a whole lotta sense to me. Why don't you post some photos? I'm sure you know how given your profile! Good luck!
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #3  
Five to six feet sounds like a nice width for a trail, but in reality, it's kind of thin. Mine are all around 11 feet wide and that's very comfortable to walk side by side on with my wife. I cut it on one side with my 6 foot mower, then overlap it a bit and cut the other half.

I fill the holes from the trees and saplings that came out, level it out and drag it a bunch of times. I don't like the box blade for too many things, but a good drag is about as handy a trail smoother ever created!!!

Then it's a simple matter of mowing from time to time.

Eddie
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #4  
Hey Jeff, before you go guying a bunch of stuff, just get a 5 foot rotary cutter. (or 4, whateber is in your budget).

Now mow your way through the woods. 4 foot on one side, 4 on the other, and go from there. To level it out, maybe have a neighbor harrow the trail, that will do wonders for filling in low spots. Take it one step at a time.
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #5  
Yeah, now that they mention it, a drag harrow would be a good second step. And 3rd, 4th, 5th. . . . .steps too!:D If you need to actually alter the grade of an area then the box blade would help.
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #6  
The fronted loader is all you need. A drag harrow would add the final touch.:D :D

Sorry, no help on the toys!:rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!)
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It sounds like I'm not too far off in my plan. I'll have to consider the rotary cutter size, sounds like I may want to do multiple passes so 4' may be better for mobility and I may be able to get a heavier duty one for the same money (and not tax the 2520 as much). When I actually start comparing models I'll have to keep that in mind.

I'm thinking the path itself may be 4-6' for now but I think I'll have to clear a bit more brush than I thought - I'm guessing the longer you've been married the wider the path needs to be. Especially if my wife sees the headphones crack! :eek: I'll have to pace things out to see if there are any spots where 4' vs. 5' implements will mean life or death for a tree...

Most of the trails at the parks here in South Joisey seem to have been sanded; there are a couple of reasons I can think of for this. The sand will probably reduce the amount of weeds and make maintenance easier. It may also help with drainage or, at the very least, mean you won't be walking in mud when it rains. And it shouldn't be overlooked that quite a bit of South Jersey is natively sand so it may have always been there beneath the leaves :) I'll try to get a picture of a nearby park with sandy trails when I get the chance. If I can figure out how my camera works. :cool: That's for when I'm finally done with the trail anyway and by then I'll probably have a spreader for fertilizer for the lawn and it'll only cost me sand should I try it.

Andrew, good point about moderation The only problem is that the roller and box blade are more useful to me right now and they're only a part of the final steps (Mr. Murphy always puts things out of order with his Law, doesn't he?). I think I may buy a suit of armor and attack the brambles with a weedwhacker just to pace off where I want the trail to go - and then try to make sure it's passable by the tractor :)

Looks like a harrow may be a good maintenance tool to clean the leaves off in the fall as well. The neighbor's are actually trying to build a pasture for their horses so maybe we can share attachments.

Thanks for all the tips so far, guys! Even if Egon's no fun ;)
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #8  
I have used and own both a DR mower and a 4ft bush hog to clear the type of brush you are describing. Either can do it. If it is easy to drive a tractor forwards through the brush that is the most efficient and you'll clear land about 4-5 times faster than with the DR. Backing a tractor is also possible though slower but preferred when the brush is fairly substantial. If the path is winding and on sloped terrain I'd start with the DR. If it is through an overgrown field as in flat and open then I'd use the tractor first.

It sounds like you don't have the luxury of trying both but you probably could get a deal from DR where they give you about three months to try out their mower with the right to return it if it doesn't meet your needs. I'd use a 4ft bush hog for trail cutting as it is more manuverable than a 5ft cutter.
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #9  
If I were you, I think I'd get a sprayer and spray some brush killer on the trail after you've mowed it. You can throw down some seed next year and have a nice trail. That's what we did on my wife's family's property and it worked great. Now we just mow it every so often and it's much more pleasant to walk on. We tried it the brute force method for about 3 years before we sprayed and it made all the difference.
 
   / Trail cutting process (and toy list!) #10  
The trails on my property take me/us places where no ride on and/or walk behind equipment can go. I use my Stihl FS 130 brush trimmer where my equipment can not go. With a circular saw blade I can take out some serious saplings and brush :cool:, but you need some protective gear. I am using the trimmer and chainsaw to make room for the tractor on the flat land. Jay
 
 
 
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