Trailer Features - What To Look For

[msb1766]

I bought an PJ Trailer its a 16 foot deck with a 2 foot dovetail. Tractor fits with room on both ends. I have tractor with loader and backhoe, Similar in size to a BX.

Here is a link with the specs:PJ Trailers | 5" Channel Carhauler

I know in New York State that you have to have any implement (loader, backhoe, brush cutter) on the deck and strapped down.
So I needed a trailer long enough to do that.

 

[Zockel]

Thanks for all the information especially regarding the drawbacks of using a dump trailer for hauling equipment or a car.

 

[Panik]

I went through some of the same decision process as you. Originally I purchased a bx2360 without loader as well as a 10' trailer to move it around. The trailer worked well until I added a loader to the bx. At that point I upgraded to a 18' 7K trailer. While plenty of folks use a 7K trailers to move their subcompacts around with no issues I found that the cross member spacing on mine was such that there was considerable board flex when the tractor was loaded and the whole trailer frame had enough flex that towing was a disconcerting experience.

Eventually I purchased a 20' 10K with cross members that were I believe 16" O.C. and have been very happy with the purchase. The trailer is strong enough that I can load anything I can feasibly need on to it. While you certainly don't need 20' of deck, it does allow for some flexibility in loading and balancing. I actually purchased extra length with the intention of mounting a toolbox to the deck giving me 18' of deck space.

My point is that while you likely can get by with less than an 18' deck, the space sure does come in handy in terms of balancing loads and securing loads. To me having that flexibility about load placement can't be understated because it can significantly impact the ride characteristics of your tow vehicle, especially if you are thinking of hauling more than just your tractor. The flip side is that with extra length comes extra weight and lowered hauling capability. My trailer weighs right at 3K so I've likely lost between 500 and 1000lbs of loading capability compared to some trailers. That is likely unacceptable for some folks, but was alright for my circumstances as I was willing to trade hauling capacity for better handling characteristics. Your circumstances and tow vehicle may necessitate a different set up. Good luck! Have fun looking.

 

[fried1765]

I went through some of the same decision process as you. Originally I purchased a bx2360 without loader as well as a 10' trailer to move it around. The trailer worked well until I added a loader to the bx. At that point I upgraded to a 18' 7K trailer. While plenty of folks use a 7K trailers to move their subcompacts around with no issues I found that the cross member spacing on mine was such that there was considerable board flex when the tractor was loaded and the whole trailer frame had enough flex that towing was a disconcerting experience.

Eventually I purchased a 20' 10K with cross members that were I believe 16" O.C. and have been very happy with the purchase. The trailer is strong enough that I can load anything I can feasibly need on to it. While you certainly don't need 20' of deck, it does allow for some flexibility in loading and balancing. I actually purchased extra length with the intention of mounting a toolbox to the deck giving me 18' of deck space.

My point is that while you likely can get by with less than an 18' deck, the space sure does come in handy in terms of balancing loads and securing loads. To me having that flexibility about load placement can't be understated because it can significantly impact the ride characteristics of your tow vehicle, especially if you are thinking of hauling more than just your tractor. The flip side is that with extra length comes extra weight and lowered hauling capability. My trailer weighs right at 3K so I've likely lost between 500 and 1000lbs of loading capability compared to some trailers. That is likely unacceptable for some folks, but was alright for my circumstances as I was willing to trade hauling capacity for better handling characteristics. Your circumstances and tow vehicle may necessitate a different set up. Good luck! Have fun looking.

An excellent point made here is about "BALANCING".
If you have extra deck length you can position your load to achieve proper tongue weight.
Proper tongue weight is generally considered to be 10-15% of the loaded trailer weight.
This is a SAFETY ISSUE!
If you search, "Measuring trailer tongue weight with a bathroom scale", you will find a simple way to measure tongue weight.
I use the bathroom scale measuring method any time I plan on highway towing.

 

[kebo]

This ^^. If you don't' 'want to dump a bunch of cash a 16 ft landscape trailer will get the job done and be really useful for other tasks as well. I built one 20 years ago and that thing has been used so much it's amazing. Would be great for your setup.

I think he'll need at least 18ft, My 790 with loader and 5ft bush hog attached is just too long to sit on a 16ft deck. I have to let 2ft hang off one end or the other, or some of both. Usually I back it on with the bush hog raised and get the heaviest part of the tractor over both axles. Then drop the BH onto the front rail (my trailer has 12" sides). Once I raise up the 4ft drive on rampgate, I lower the bucket onto the top of the ramp. Ugly but it works. I keep saying that one day I will sell this 16ft trailer and get me an 18ft, or possibly a 20ft trailer. See the pic I added (that's not my current pickup truck though).



One other thing to look for though, make SURE you get a spare tire with the trailer. It's also essential to get one with a storage box on the tongue, imho. Need a place for all those chains, chain binders, wheel chocks, etc...

If you get a flat bed equipment style trailer with no sides, preferably get one with stake pockets so you can at least make some sides out of wood to use for temporarily hauling dirt, gravel, firewood etc, for those times you're in a pinch.

I prefer a trailer with permanently attached ramps, preferably with supports on them so when you drive up on it, it won't pick the back end of your truck off of the ground. My next trailer with have supports on the ramp!!! Also, being attached makes them less likely to walk off in the middle of the night.

Lots of other good advice in this thread though. :thumbsup:

 

[grnspot110]

Loading legs will take care of the lift problem: When in the down position, they're an inch or so off the ground. When loaded, just back up a little & swing them up!

 

[fried1765]

Loading legs will take care of the lift problem: View attachment 456821 When in the down position, they're an inch or so off the ground. When loaded, just back up a little & swing them up!

The trailers that are built with two ( individual wheel ) fold up ramps usually have a leg assembly welded across the bottom of each wheel ramp, for tail end trailer support while loading/unloading.
Lift assist springs (beefy coil type springs) are often also used on each wheel ramp to assist with weight, when raising/lowering the ramps for travel, or storage.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Just a few thoughts, get a tilt deck. You will never have to mess with ramps so you can unload a tractor then drive on a lawn mower or roll a hand truck on without trying to slide the ramps to the right width or ever have to physically lift them. You can get them in a power tilt similar to a dump trailer or non powered. Ours is unpowered with a damping cylinder so you can lock it tilted. One down side is they tend to have less ground clearance. Also add up the weight of your tractor, wheel weights, loader, and anything else semi-permanently mounted on it, then add the weight of your heaviest attachment, and your second heaviest attachment, and add on a little extra for the weight of chains and binders. Bring this number when you start shopping your not going to want anything lighter, don't forget to account for the weight of the trailer itself. And finally don't get a ball coupler get a pintle style, all the moving parts are on the truck side so you can store it out of the weather. They are much easier to use especially alone because the alignment is much more forgiving, you can visually see that everything is locked together properly, they never get "stuck on the ball" or fail to lock together, they never need adjustment, and their range of movement is impressive (I hall my trailer into the woods behind the tractor and load it with fire wood).

 

[powerscol]

While it has not been mention here take a look in the "Trailers and Transportation Forum" and use the search feature. You will be in the TMI mode.
I have a Bobcat CT 235 and bought a PJ 20' plus 3' dove tail Deck Over unit. The reason was two fold. Tong weight with my tractor and a normal pull behind trailer I found I exceeded or was very close to the tong weight of my receiver hitch, even with weight reducing hitch. I have an F 350 dully with the heaviest hitch offered. Your a light lighter, but check on this. Tractor width I have the GP tires and in most cases of a standard or even wide deck or tilt bed the tires would not fit inside the fenders, so measure accordingly . Electric breaks on all axles is a must, as well as numerous tie down points. Shop around as all units are not created equal, especially in framing. paint, wiring and hardware. For me PJ brand offered the most options. They also had the best prices. Big Tex and other major brands may have what you need. Good luck. I do have a custom trailer shop near me and they do good work, but did not offer what I wanted, so check to see if there are any shops in your area. However if you looking at a good landscape trailer, be very careful of axles and tire ratings as you will be at their max load limit.

As mention before, think about future needs too and what you may wish to haul and size accordingly.

 

[savaytse66]

While it has not been mention here take a look in the "Trailers and Transportation Forum" and use the search feature. You will be in the TMI mode...

Thanks for that. I didn't even realize that forum existed, otherwise I would have posted there.

I ended up getting a 20 foot, 10,000 pound landscape trailer. I think the full-width ramp will be better for me when I am loading things other than the tractor. For example, if I have furniture on a dolly, I think it will be much easier to use that full width ramp instead of having to adjust the individual ramps. Also, simply walking up the ramp while carrying things will just be easier. In addition, I like the continuous steel tube rail around the outside. I think this too will allow for some more versatility. And it still has plenty of stake pockets for tie downs.

Now I just need to get some chains and ratchets.

Thanks for all of the info.