Trailer Hitch Capacity

[Gem99ultra]

Perhaps I'm being paranoid... but I'd like an opinion on trailer hitch capacities.

I have a '97 Chevy C2500 diesel and need to pull about 5500# of tactor and implements. My trailer is a 20' x 83" PJ tandum axle with brakes on both axles. I don't know how much the trailer weighs. But - the hitch on my truck is a Class III 5000# with a 2 5/16" 5000# capacity ball.

I'm wondering if it's a hazard to pull with that hitch? Or is it really necessary to buy a Class IV or Class V hitch. Just how critical are the hitch ratings?


Your advice please. Thanks.

 

[schmism]

remember that a good ballpark tongue weight should start at about 10% of everything behind the tow vehicle.

so if payload is 5500# and you put it on a 1500# 7K trailer.... then you should start with ~700lbs of tongue weight.

 

[mojoinco]

One time, driving easy, close to home. That's one thing.

Any more than that, I'd buy a new hitch. Note the limits with and without an equalizing ball carrier. You will notice the difference when you compare the old and the new hitch. You might find a good price on a used one.

 

[some zilch]

my 3500 chevy had the same 5k hitch when i bought it. i bought a 14k curt brand hitch from jcwhitney for about $100.......

 

[Diamondpilot]

Get a new hitch. I recommend a Class 4 or better. The hitches on that era of GM trucks were a larger tube that liked to rust out. I have seen a few broke.

As for overloading a hitch do not do it. I have a 2004 F-250 diesel and the hitch was rated for 10,000# I got the truck in August and broke the hitch in October pulling 15,000#. I replaced it with a 15,000# Class 5 Reese Titan and no issues.

As for the ball and mount make sure they are rated right also. You can not usually find what you need at WalMart or the Auto Parts store. You need to go to a trailer dealer, RV dealer, or order on line to get the real stuff. Sometimes you can get lucky at TSC.

Chris

 

[Gem99ultra]

Get a new hitch. I recommend a Class 4 or better. The hitches on that era of GM trucks were a larger tube that liked to rust out. I have seen a few broke.

As for overloading a hitch do not do it. I have a 2004 F-250 diesel and the hitch was rated for 10,000# I got the truck in August and broke the hitch in October pulling 15,000#. I replaced it with a 15,000# Class 5 Reese Titan and no issues.

As for the ball and mount make sure they are rated right also. You can not usually find what you need at WalMart or the Auto Parts store. You need to go to a trailer dealer, RV dealer, or order on line to get the real stuff. Sometimes you can get lucky at TSC.

Chris

Good advice, well taken. I'll do just that.

Thanks!

 

[schmism]

I got the truck in August and broke the hitch in October pulling 15,000#. I replaced it with a 15,000# Class 5 Reese Titan and no issues. Chris

how did it fail?

 

[Dmace]

Just a FYI, those hitches are usually rated higher with a Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch so if you didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing the hitch, you could add a WD hitch and not only get the higher capacity but also towing that trailer would be much easier, more controlled and easier on the tow vehicle. The WD hitch would cost about as much as a new truck receiver too.

 

[Diamondpilot]

how did it fail?

It failed because I was a IDIOT! Plain and simple. I overloaded it. I was told the load was about 12,000#, which was still over weight, and later weighed it and it to find out it was 14,700#. Either way I overloaded the hitch. I was traveling from just west of Pittsburgh, PA to Eastern, IN. Most of the travel was on I-70 going though major cities like Columbus and Dayton, OH

I wish I took a picture. It elongated the pin hole 3/16" of a inch in a 300 mile pull, bent the receiver tube down about 30 deg, and cracked a 3" weld about 2.25". I got luck because if that weld would have let go I would have lost the whole load. Safety chains would have done no good since they are attached to the same area.

Chris

 

[firefighter jim]

Just a FYI, those hitches are usually rated higher with a Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch so if you didn't want to go through the hassle of replacing the hitch, you could add a WD hitch and not only get the higher capacity but also towing that trailer would be much easier, more controlled and easier on the tow vehicle. The WD hitch would cost about as much as a new truck receiver too.

Good advise.