OP
Trailer Mover
- Thread starter ToolBoxTavern
- Start date
Wyobuckaroo
Platinum Member
TBT
You or someone mentioned a restraining chain on the trailer mover to keep the 3pt arms from being pushed too high up.
I also built that into my home made mover. I have read where people have had 3pt systems broken somehow with too many hard pushed beyond the top of the normal movement.
I also am working on a (5' long) boom pole accessory for my hitch. I already have a short (telescope 1-2') boom pole that works well for many things.
Especially skidding logs.
Good luck
You or someone mentioned a restraining chain on the trailer mover to keep the 3pt arms from being pushed too high up.
I also built that into my home made mover. I have read where people have had 3pt systems broken somehow with too many hard pushed beyond the top of the normal movement.
I also am working on a (5' long) boom pole accessory for my hitch. I already have a short (telescope 1-2') boom pole that works well for many things.
Especially skidding logs.
Good luck
OP
ToolBoxTavern
Silver Member
I need to add that chain in a hurry, but probably wont get to it till the weekend.
My boom pole is 7ft long.
6011Artist
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- 1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original
aczlan, no pics of the wheel lift but all I did was slide a piece of 2" tubing into my hitch, already drilled for the pin, used a piece about 10" long. I then cut 2 pieces of tubing 48" long and 2 pieces of 2" channel 12 in long. I built a 12 X 48 rectangle and then added the hitch piece midway on the 48 in side. I did cut another piece of tubing to tie the front and back runs together.
Just think of it as a short piece of tubing coming out of the hitch and a 12 X 48 rectangle welded to the stub out piece. I can back up to a lawn mower or garden tractor and let the hitch/wheel lift sit on the ground, roll the mower across the back piece of tubing and then pick it up like a wrecker does.
I measured 4 different mowers, cub cadets, 4 wheeler to determine how wide I need this thing, 48", and them drilled holes into the underside of my tubing so I can take 2 short light duty 1" rachet straps and tie the tires down, just like a wrecker does a car.
I did not build a swivel on my wheel lift. I have lots of room and can make wide turns to get around that. I also thought that if I did need a swivel I could add it to the front of what is there now so it swivels in my turns. But it won't be used a lot, was a quick weld up job to move a Pa Panzer out of my shop and a cub cadet into my shop. And to go retrieve the lawn mower if need when it's too far away to push.
If it was a daily used tool I'd definately put a swivel in it. I wanted it as short as possible to use on my cub cadet, it has a hand operated lift on it and by keeping it short I think I can lift a mower or garden tractor by hand. If it swiveled it would have to be longer to keep it off of the rear tires of the pulling tractor when turning. The longer the rig, the more it takes to lift it.
I haven't used it yet. I may see where the swivel has to be added but I think it should work fine like it is, just do long sweeping turns.
If I do need a swivel I'll use two spring hanger brackets used on mobile home frames. I already have them. I use them a lot in building things using 2" tubing where I pin them together or swivel. Already made and about a buck each. I can add length to the whole thing and let the short existing piece that goes into the hitch be where the swivel attaches and add another piece of tubing to go into the hitch.
Just think of it as a short piece of tubing coming out of the hitch and a 12 X 48 rectangle welded to the stub out piece. I can back up to a lawn mower or garden tractor and let the hitch/wheel lift sit on the ground, roll the mower across the back piece of tubing and then pick it up like a wrecker does.
I measured 4 different mowers, cub cadets, 4 wheeler to determine how wide I need this thing, 48", and them drilled holes into the underside of my tubing so I can take 2 short light duty 1" rachet straps and tie the tires down, just like a wrecker does a car.
I did not build a swivel on my wheel lift. I have lots of room and can make wide turns to get around that. I also thought that if I did need a swivel I could add it to the front of what is there now so it swivels in my turns. But it won't be used a lot, was a quick weld up job to move a Pa Panzer out of my shop and a cub cadet into my shop. And to go retrieve the lawn mower if need when it's too far away to push.
If it was a daily used tool I'd definately put a swivel in it. I wanted it as short as possible to use on my cub cadet, it has a hand operated lift on it and by keeping it short I think I can lift a mower or garden tractor by hand. If it swiveled it would have to be longer to keep it off of the rear tires of the pulling tractor when turning. The longer the rig, the more it takes to lift it.
I haven't used it yet. I may see where the swivel has to be added but I think it should work fine like it is, just do long sweeping turns.
If I do need a swivel I'll use two spring hanger brackets used on mobile home frames. I already have them. I use them a lot in building things using 2" tubing where I pin them together or swivel. Already made and about a buck each. I can add length to the whole thing and let the short existing piece that goes into the hitch be where the swivel attaches and add another piece of tubing to go into the hitch.
OP
ToolBoxTavern
Silver Member
Thanx
aczlan
Good Morning
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Thanks, I have some pieces of a treadmill frame floating around that might work well for such a project. Thinking that if I unlocked the stabilizer bars to let the trailer mover swing back and forth that could help a little to avoid the need for a pivot.
Aaron Z
Oliver1655
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I like the dual receiver tubes. They will be handy attachment points for future additions. To add to ToolBarn's list, a winch bolted to a plate-welded to a 2" tube is mighty handy.
6011Artist
Gold Member
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- Darlington, SC
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- 1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original
Oliver, I have a heavy duty boat winch with a nylon strap instead of cable mounted on it. I use it to winch tractors or cars on my car hauling trailer. I welded a piece of tubing with a hitch sleeve pointing straight up on the tongue of my trailer and then built another piece of tubing plated for the winch to bolt on to. If I need my winch, I slide it in the reese hitch mounted on the front. If not, it's stored inside so my strap won't rot. So later on I welded the same type rig on 2 other trailers, so the same winch gets stored inside or moved from one trailer to the other. By having 2 hitch tubes on the mover one could mount a wench in the top tube to use to load things as well.
Aaron, to keep my post simple I said I built my rig out of tubing but it is actually made out of 2" pallet rack bars, like you see in Home Depot. It is tubing but not square. I have lots of it and use it when I can get away with it. I had 2" tubing on hand but elected to save it for when it was really needed. Today I am building an overhead swing crane to use in my boat shed to change out a motor. I'm using a piece of 5 x 2 (pallet rack bar) to make the swing arm. I bought a bunch of that stuff when scrap was only bringing 1.5 cents a lb. The scrap buyers wouldn't haul it if you gave it to them for free, you had to carry it to them. So I am definately a "use what you already got" type of guy.
Aaron, to keep my post simple I said I built my rig out of tubing but it is actually made out of 2" pallet rack bars, like you see in Home Depot. It is tubing but not square. I have lots of it and use it when I can get away with it. I had 2" tubing on hand but elected to save it for when it was really needed. Today I am building an overhead swing crane to use in my boat shed to change out a motor. I'm using a piece of 5 x 2 (pallet rack bar) to make the swing arm. I bought a bunch of that stuff when scrap was only bringing 1.5 cents a lb. The scrap buyers wouldn't haul it if you gave it to them for free, you had to carry it to them. So I am definately a "use what you already got" type of guy.