Trailering questions

   / Trailering questions
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for the pics! That setup looks about like what I need. I'll be hauling other things than my tractor from time to time, so the more tiedowns the better. Those stake pockets sound OK, too.

Soundguy, those stops of yours are exactly what I dread! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Trailering questions
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Hey, guys, while we're kicking the can...do these trailers do OK in outside storage, or are they better off garaged? I won't be hauling stuff very often so it would be sitting out in the elements for fairly long periods at a time. Considering that The Boss says I can't have an equipment shed for a few years yet, should I consider some sort of rental storage joint or will I be OK just leaving it in the back 40?
 
   / Trailering questions #13  
My trailer sits outside.

I do tend to touch up the rust spots every now and again to keep the rust down. While there are a couple high quality trailer brands out there, MOST trailers are not very well built, the paint is not up to the standards of what you'd find on a car! Most get a simply spray coat of paint and not much else before you take them home.
 
   / Trailering questions #14  
KY; I leave my trailers outside year round. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif My oldest one is a 2000 Haulmark enclosed. I don't have a big enough building to get my trucks inside, let alone a trailer. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Now my TC, does get a house in the winter. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif One of these days........
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I've not had any problems caused by weather yet.
 
   / Trailering questions #15  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( While there are a couple high quality trailer brands out there, MOST trailers are not very well built )</font>

For sure, Bob's right on the mark. Our new Haulmark enclosed race car hauler came with "ventilated" wheel box corner welds--Swiss cheese holes big enough to see daylight and let rain inside, too. Also, rear ramp door is mis-aligned. Right side is full 1.5 inches higher than left. Our dealer is great, and she took care of the welds. At the end of the season, they will send trailer back to Haulmark to fix the door (under warranty). So, given the quality control issues with most trailers, if you are buying new, make sure you hook up with a reputable dealer who is willing to work with the manufacturer on your behalf.

Another observation from the school of hard knocks is that the most durable trailers are the all aluminum ones. Livestock haulers must know something. Around here, they mostly use Featherlite {HERE}
We have a Featherlite dual axle open hauler, and it's the best made trailer we've had. Moreover it is LIGHT. Did I say light? That means you can have a bigger payload w/o exceeding the GVWR for the trailer+payload+vehicle.

Outside storage is pretty much the norm. The only maintenance item I would underscore is the importance of re-packing the wheel bearings once a year (or every ~15K miles if you do a lot of hauling). Some of the higher end units have lifetime bearings, meaning no repacking. Others have "EZ lube" bearings with a Zerk fitting. Just pump your grease gun until you see you've replaced old stuff with new. Makes a messy job pretty tolerable.

That's my $0.02...
 
   / Trailering questions #16  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( do these trailers do OK in outside storage, or are they better off garaged )</font>

My wood deck 16' trailer has been setting outside since 2001. I put a new deck on it in 2002 as the deck from the factory ( 2000 ) had a few bad boards.. and looke dlike whitewood spruce not PT!!

The pt boards I put on have shown no signs of decay yey.. however I did put 2 coats of asphalt fence paint on it as soon as I decked it.

Soundguy
 
   / Trailering questions #17  
As I understand it here in NY using the stakepockets for anchor points is a no no. My trailer has D rings on each corner and two in the middle. I usually run a chain through the front bumper to the front corners and one over-center binder there, then put a clevis on the draw bar and run a chain through that to the rear corners and another chain binder there. If I have something on the three point hitch, I run a two inch strap (avioding sharp edges or a peice of thick rubber in between) or another chain and binder over the attachment also. The truck drivers at our dealership haul equipment this way and haven't had a problem losing anything or any problems with DOT either. There are many ways to haul equipment and how to secure it, but the safest way is the best. Always think, "it may be someone you know or love that may get hurt or worse if that peice of equipment comes loose".
 
   / Trailering questions #18  
My tractor didn't have a good place to chain it down to so I added these bolt on hooks.
 

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   / Trailering questions #19  
I would also recommend welding on D-rings if your trailer doesn't already have them. It only takes a few minutes to weld on heavy duty ones like these that you can buy at TSC.
 

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   / Trailering questions #20  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My tractor didn't have a good place to chain it down to so I added these bolt on hooks. )</font>

I did the same thing Gene, makes it pretty quick to chain down.
 
 
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