trouble starting

[Bobvt]

I'd call. It is beyond me. (By the way it is not a block heater, it is a manifold heater. It is right at the head of the T (inverted) where the air duct from the cleaner enters the intake manifold.) Just out of curiosity does your red light (above the horn button) come on when you switch the key on?

Bob

 

[jwcinpk]

Yes the red light comes on and I wait for it to go out before trying. Still same thing except I counted yesterday and it took 43 tries. Thats not acceptable! Calling the dealer today and having him come take a look at it. Like I said I've checked all the connections and can not find anyhting loose. It's beyond me. Has to be the solenoid.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

If you don't hear the"click", its most likely the solenoid. You may want to try to hot wire the starter from another battery with a set of jumpers. Just turn the key on and hook the + up the starter motor and the - up to a good ground. It should turn over (and start) if the solenoid is faulty. BobG in VA

 

[Steve02370]

If it is clicking, it is in the starter or solenoid !
Your dealer will replace both under warranty if it is still in warranty.

 

[jwcinpk]

No connections were loose, but today I took them all off, cleaned them and put them back. That fixed the problem. Not sure which connection it was, but it turned over 15 times in a row so i geuss I've traced it out. Must have been in the wires the dealer added for my roller.

 

[sundug]

I have a 2007 6500 4WD. I bought it a year ago with 325 hours on it. I used to see the manifold heater light come on when I first turned on the key, now it does not, and when temps are in the 20's, it has to crank a lot to start. I found the manifold heater and light on the wiring diagram, and I think I have the right timer relay-blue, four prong, mounted high up inside on the left rear of the engine compartment. I see on the wiring diagram that the timer sends juice to the manifold heater, but that sure doesn't seem right, because the wires from the timer relay are a lot smaller gauge than the wire going to the heater, anyway the wiring diagram said they had a 10 amp fuse in line. I checked all the fuses in the fuse panel. They were fine. None are listed as the heater fuse. But behind that fuse panel, there were two fuses taped to the wiring harness. One of them was a 10 amp that was blown. I replaced it, I still do not see the heater light come on- however, the engine was warmed up and I'm not sure if that's a factor. If anyone can shed the light on when this heater is posted come on, how long it is supposed to come on, whether engine temperatures a factor, where the components are located, where the heavy wire going to the heater goes, etc. I sure would appreciate it. Thanks, Doug

 

[bindian]

No connections were loose, but today I took them all off, cleaned them and put them back. That fixed the problem. Not sure which connection it was, but it turned over 15 times in a row so i geuss I've traced it out. Must have been in the wires the dealer added for my roller.

I just got here (been sick), but I was going to say clean the battery terminals. It is usually the ground that gets a little "dirty" and goes bonkers.
hugs, Brandi

 

[sd455dan]

No connections were loose, but today I took them all off, cleaned them and put them back. That fixed the problem. Not sure which connection it was, but it turned over 15 times in a row so i geuss I've traced it out. Must have been in the wires the dealer added for my roller.

This is going to sound a little off the wall but I had the same problem with my car, a 1996 police caprice- the starter solenoid would click but no starter rotation, just like your tractor. The starter I had replaced with a new one because the bendix was damaged internally and and would make a grinding sound -it did not damage the ring gear. the battery has 2 positive cables, one runs to the key switch and fuse boxes, the other cable runs to the starter positive connection unlike single positive cable set ups, which just have a single cable to the starter and a smaller wire from there to key switch . car was fine for 3 months after the new starter installation, then one day went to town parked and tried to restart- just a click thought tow truck but decided to clean the battery positive terminal-- and in between the double gm factory connector- corrosion, didn't check when I installed the starter... So the cable to the key switch had power, everything but actual starter rotation was possible but the cable to main starter positive lug 0 volts.. Glad both are fixed sorry about the long post