PineRidge
Super Member
Are you guys fixing an air compressor or wiring a football stadium? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Trouble with Compressor blowing Breaker
- Thread starter jedens
- Start date
BIGUN
Gold Member
Speaking of that we could use some feedback from jedens. Just because we got off subject, a little, doesn't mean he didn't get some valuable advice first to solve his problem. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Junkman
Super Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Mark in NH,
I would agree with you, the smaller black wire connected to the lug on the lower left side, attached to the can with the green screw (always a good sign of a ground lug /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif) is what I would consider the ground and should be connected to water pipes, ground rods, and bare copper wires on branch circuits.
The larger yellow stripe wire on the right looks like the neutral and the white insulated wires on branch circuits should attach to this. )</font>
Should the buss bar that the white wires attach to in the panel be bonded to the metal panel or should it be isolated?? In other words, which buss bar is isolated from the circuit breaker panel cabinet?????
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I would agree with you, the smaller black wire connected to the lug on the lower left side, attached to the can with the green screw (always a good sign of a ground lug /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif) is what I would consider the ground and should be connected to water pipes, ground rods, and bare copper wires on branch circuits.
The larger yellow stripe wire on the right looks like the neutral and the white insulated wires on branch circuits should attach to this. )</font>
Should the buss bar that the white wires attach to in the panel be bonded to the metal panel or should it be isolated?? In other words, which buss bar is isolated from the circuit breaker panel cabinet?????
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
BIGUN
Gold Member
Junkman,
When I used to do this work the main breaker panel next to the meter had it’s neutral buss bar connected to the ground rod, the power companies neutral, the branch 110-volt circuits white neutrals and bare ground wires. The breaker panels came with a green screw taped to the inside that could be run through this insulated buss to ground it to the cabinet, if as stated on the little note on the tape, it was required by local code. My boss said it wasn't so we didn't install it.
I don’t know what code says, but I would say if one were NOT to be attached to the cabinet it would be the neutral (yellow striped wire), the one that should have all the white wires attached to it.
Your description of how your installation is wired sounds backwards to me, but I haven't looked at it. I would get an experienced electrician to inspect your installation if you have concerns.
When I used to do this work the main breaker panel next to the meter had it’s neutral buss bar connected to the ground rod, the power companies neutral, the branch 110-volt circuits white neutrals and bare ground wires. The breaker panels came with a green screw taped to the inside that could be run through this insulated buss to ground it to the cabinet, if as stated on the little note on the tape, it was required by local code. My boss said it wasn't so we didn't install it.
I don’t know what code says, but I would say if one were NOT to be attached to the cabinet it would be the neutral (yellow striped wire), the one that should have all the white wires attached to it.
Your description of how your installation is wired sounds backwards to me, but I haven't looked at it. I would get an experienced electrician to inspect your installation if you have concerns.
Junkman
Super Member
Your description was exactly what I thought also, but the inspector for the town said that the whites were isolated and the the bare coppers were grounded to the panel. The way it presently is, the bare copper wires are on the buss bar that is attached to the cabinet and the black with yellow stripe wire is attached to that buss bar. The white wires are on an isolated buss bar on the other side of the cabinet and that is attached to the 4 gauge wire that goes to the ground rods. The cabinet in the cellar is not grounded to any ground rod with the exception of the ground rod at the base of the pole that the electric company has the transformer mounted to, and that is from the black with yellow stripe wire. It will be easy enough to change, but I want to make sure that what I have is incorrect before I make the change. Thanks for the help....
PineRidge
Super Member
I think Jedens was overwhelmed by all the technical issues flying around and decided to buy another compressor. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
kensfarm
Veteran Member
I've seen where a bad or inadequate extension cord was causing a breaker to switch off.
RICKR
Member
Bird, I believe that is the way it is here. Three wires for stick built and four wires for moble homes. I think mobles has to meet HUD code and stick built has to meet local code.I think this is for my area might be different other places.
Inspector507
Super Member
Mobile Home has been 4 wire for years........different grounding requirements for them. All new homes now should be 4 wire as well.
RobertN
Super Member
I second the idea of making the switch to 220. But, if you do, give yourself a bigger circuit so you can add a welder or whatever later down the line.
My old compressor used to blow 15 and 20A 110v breakers. It ran much smoother on 220. My new 6hp 80gal upright was 220 from the get-go.
My old compressor used to blow 15 and 20A 110v breakers. It ran much smoother on 220. My new 6hp 80gal upright was 220 from the get-go.